Masumi by by Coty c1967

Masumi by Coty was introduced in 1967, a time of cultural transformation and burgeoning individuality. The name "Masumi" is Japanese in origin, translating roughly to "clarity" or "true purity." In layman's terms, it is pronounced "mah-soo-mee." The word evokes images of serene landscapes, delicate cherry blossoms, and a sense of tranquil refinement. This emotional resonance with simplicity, elegance, and purity likely appealed to women of the era, who were navigating a world balancing traditional beauty ideals with new freedoms and cultural influences.

For the modern woman of 1967, "Masumi" would have seemed sophisticated and exotic, tapping into the era's fascination with Eastern cultures and philosophies. The name alone might have conjured visions of harmony and introspection, sentiments aligned with the fragrance's introspective qualities. Its floral-green chypre composition, with a fresh opening, an elegant floral heart, and a mossy, powdery base, was not only feminine but reflective of a serene and balanced aesthetic. In essence, "Masumi" interpreted its name into scent, encapsulating clarity and purity in olfactory form.

ad from 1977

The fragrance emerged during a time when the perfume market was witnessing the popularity of bold, aldehydic florals and rich orientals, yet also beginning to embrace lighter, greener scents in response to changing lifestyles. As a floral-green chypre, Masumi straddled the line between the elegance of the past and the freshness that hinted at a modern, nature-oriented future. Its uniqueness lay in its subtle complexity, offering an alternative to the heavier, overtly glamorous fragrances of the time.

By 1976, Masumi had come to embody the ethos of the burgeoning Yoga generation—a demographic seeking enlightenment, balance, and a connection to the natural world. A contemporary article aptly highlighted how the fragrance's serene yet sophisticated character resonated deeply with these ideals. It was a perfume that symbolized harmony in an era marked by self-discovery and a quest for personal authenticity. For those who wore it, Masumi was not just a fragrance but an extension of an aspirational lifestyle—calm, reflective, and timelessly elegant.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral-green chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh top note, followed by a classic elegant floral heart, layered over a feminine, mossy, powdery base.

Original perfume: 

• Top notes: bamboo, lemon, orange, coriander, estragon, aldehydes, osmanthus and bergamot
• Middle notes: lotus blossom, orris, carnation, lily, lilac, lily of the valley, mimosa, violet, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose de mai, hyacinth
• Base notes: Indian musk, labdanum, Siamese benzoin, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, galbanum, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, Venezuelan tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Imagine stepping into a scene straight out of the 1970s, where the air is thick with the scent of freedom, self-discovery, and a newfound appreciation for nature's bounty. Masumi by Coty, born in 1967 but truly coming into its own in the cultural landscape of the mid-70s, embodies the spirit of a generation seeking harmony, both within themselves and with the world around them.

As you inhale the perfume, you're transported to an era defined by the rise of the Yoga generation, a time when people were exploring alternative lifestyles, embracing Eastern philosophies, and reconnecting with the rhythms of nature. Masumi captures this zeitgeist perfectly, offering a fragrance experience that resonates with those who seek balance, serenity, and authenticity in their lives.

The fresh top notes of bamboo, lemon, and orange evoke images of sun-dappled groves and citrus orchards, while the earthy undertones of coriander and estragon hint at the grounding influence of herbal remedies and holistic practices. Aldehydes add a touch of modernity and sophistication, signaling a departure from the heavy perfumes of previous decades.

As the scent unfolds, a lush bouquet of florals takes center stage, each bloom a nod to the natural world and its transformative power. Lotus blossom, orris, and may rose symbolize purity and renewal, while jasmine and violet exude sensuality and mystery. Lily of the valley and lilac lend a nostalgic sweetness, reminiscent of carefree days spent wandering through meadows and gardens.

But it's in the base notes that Masumi truly reveals its depth and complexity. Indian musk, labdanum, and ambergris create a warm, sensual aura, inviting you to embrace your innermost desires and passions. Mysore sandalwood and patchouli ground the fragrance in the earthy richness of the natural world, while vetiver and oakmoss add a touch of ruggedness and resilience.

In essence, Masumi by Coty is more than just a perfume—it's a sensory journey back to a time of exploration, experimentation, and enlightenment, where the essence of the Yoga generation is captured in every intoxicating note.

Product Line:

The Masumi product line was a true testament to Coty’s dedication to providing a fully immersive fragrance experience. Each item in the range was carefully designed to enhance the wearer’s connection to the elegant, serene essence of Masumi, allowing for a layered and long-lasting olfactory journey.

The 0.85 oz Eau de Toilette Spray was the epitome of convenience, offering a portable option for a quick spritz of Masumi's timeless elegance. Perfect for travel or touch-ups throughout the day, this petite spray kept the wearer effortlessly sophisticated on the go.

For those who sought a gentle yet fragrant start to their skincare routine, the 1.33 oz Facial Soap provided a luxurious cleanse. Its mild formula refreshed the skin while imparting Masumi’s delicate scent, making every face wash a moment of pampering.

The 2 oz Cologne Spray catered to those who desired a more pronounced presence of the fragrance. Its format allowed for a fuller application, enveloping the wearer in Masumi’s captivating floral-green chypre aura, while remaining versatile for daily use.

For a more indulgent application, the 3 oz Cologne Splash invited users to immerse themselves in Masumi’s allure. A traditional splash-on cologne, it emphasized the tactile pleasure of applying fragrance, creating an intimate and enduring connection with the scent.

The 3.5 oz Body Cream elevated the experience with its rich, velvety texture. This cream not only hydrated and softened the skin but also left behind a subtle veil of Masumi's fragrance, ideal for layering with other products in the line.

A true luxury item, the 4 oz Dusting Powder with Puff brought a touch of old-world glamour to the Masumi collection. Perfect after a bath or shower, the powder left the skin delicately scented and silky smooth, while the included puff added an air of refinement to the ritual.

The Bath Cubes transformed an ordinary bath into a sanctuary of relaxation. Dissolving in water, they released clouds of Masumi’s signature scent, creating a sensory escape for the mind and body.

Finally, the Bath Soap rounded out the collection, offering a beautifully fragranced bar for everyday indulgence. Cleansing the skin while wrapping it in Masumi’s exquisite aroma, this soap elevated daily bathing into a moment of serenity.

Together, the Masumi product line allowed for a complete, multi-sensory experience, ensuring that the fragrance became a part of every aspect of the user’s day. It was more than just a scent—it was a luxurious ritual of elegance and harmony.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The fragrance was reformulated and relaunched in new packaging in 1976.

Good Housekeeping, 1977:

"Masumi. It is calm. Serene. It fills you with tranquility. Beauty. As Masumi lingers, you become radiant. Masumi perfume, the essence of inner beauty."

Mademoiselle, 1977:

"The Masumi Experience. You begin. You breathe Masumi. You touch Masumi. Masumi touches you. Tranquil. Serene. As Masumi lingers your inner beauty emerges. You feel renewed. Experience Masumi. Perfume by Coty."

 McCall's, 1978:

"FOR HER: A hand woven basket filled with the Masumi Bath Ensemble: fragrant soap, body creme and eau de cologne. From Coty, $7.95."

Structure, Style and Communication, 1980:

"Its name is Masumi, a classic new French perfume unmistakably touched with greatness. a new word in the language of love MASUMI de COTY, Made in France. Inspired by the East."

1976 Reformulation Composition:

New version:

• Top notes: bergamot, rosewood, melon and pineapple
• Middle notes: violet, cardamom and rose
• Base notes: amber, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla, oakmoss and musk

In its 1976 reformulation, Masumi emerged with a renewed vibrancy, encapsulating the essence of the era with its modernized composition and stylish new packaging.

At the forefront, the fragrance opens with a burst of citrus freshness, as bergamot lends its sparkling zest alongside the woody richness of rosewood. A tantalizing hint of tropical allure emerges with the succulent sweetness of melon and pineapple, setting the stage for the olfactory journey ahead.

As the fragrance evolves, a floral heart unfurls, where delicate violet petals intertwine with the spicy warmth of cardamom and the timeless elegance of rose. This aromatic symphony strikes a perfect balance between soft femininity and intriguing complexity, drawing you deeper into its embrace.

Finally, as the scent settles, a sumptuous base emerges, anchored by the luxurious richness of amber and the creamy smoothness of sandalwood. Cedar adds a touch of sophistication, while vanilla lends a sweet, comforting warmth. Oakmoss and musk infuse the composition with a timeless sensuality, leaving a lingering trail of captivating allure in your wake.

With its refined formulation and updated presentation, Masumi's relaunch in 1976 captured the essence of its time, embodying the spirit of modernity, elegance, and sophistication.

In the late 1970s, Masumi by Coty garnered praise for its ability to evoke a sense of tranquility and inner beauty. Good Housekeeping described it as serene and radiant, filling one with tranquility and inner beauty. Mademoiselle highlighted the immersive experience of Masumi, emphasizing its tranquil and serene qualities, which lead to a sense of renewal and the emergence of inner beauty. McCall's showcased the Masumi Bath Ensemble, offering fragrant soap, body cream, and eau de cologne, encapsulating the essence of Masumi in a luxurious gift set. Furthermore, in 1980, Masumi was celebrated as a classic French perfume imbued with greatness, its name becoming synonymous with love and inspiration from the East.

photo by franceseattle

Legacy:

Masumi's legacy extended beyond its original formulation, giving rise to a collection of flanker scents that added new dimensions to its captivating allure. Among these offspring were Eau Masumi, Toujours Masumi, and Masumi Je Taime, each offering a unique interpretation of the beloved fragrance.

However, despite their individual charm, all good things must eventually come to an end. By 1994, Masumi and its flanker scents had been discontinued, leaving behind only memories of their exquisite aromas. While the original Masumi may still be relatively accessible, the flanker scents have become elusive treasures, sought after by fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike.

In the realm of perfumery, discontinued fragrances often acquire an aura of mystique, their scarcity adding to their allure. As a result, tracking down these elusive flanker scents can be a challenge, requiring a keen eye and perhaps a bit of luck.

Yet, for those fortunate enough to experience the magic of Masumi and its progeny, the memories linger on, preserved in the fragrant echoes of a bygone era.