Jasmin de Corse by Coty 1906

Launched in 1906, Jasmin de Corse by Coty is a fragrance that carries deep personal significance for its creator, François Coty, born François Spoturno on the Mediterranean island of Corsica. The name "Jasmin de Corse" translates from French as "Jasmine of Corsica" (pronounced zhaz-mehn duh kors). The phrase evokes sun-drenched landscapes, rolling hills scented with wildflowers, and the island’s rich botanical heritage. By naming the fragrance after his homeland, Coty not only paid tribute to his Corsican roots but also drew upon the island’s legendary natural beauty and aromatic flora to create a scent that was both nostalgic and exotic.

The early 1900s, when Jasmin de Corse was introduced, marked the height of the Belle Époque (1871–1914), a period of artistic, cultural, and scientific flourishing in Europe. Fashion was transitioning from the elaborate S-curve corseted silhouettes of the late 19th century to the more fluid, empire-line gowns that would dominate the years leading up to World War I. Women of the time sought luxury and romance in their fragrances, using perfume as a means of expressing femininity, status, and sensuality. A scent called Jasmin de Corse would have evoked images of sun-warmed Mediterranean gardens, opulence, and the allure of an island untamed yet steeped in history.

The olfactory composition of Jasmin de Corse is classified as a sweet floral, known for being intensely rich, heady, and lingering. The fragrance was built around indolic jasmine, a type of jasmine that possesses a deep, almost animalic intensity, giving it a sensual and slightly smoky character. In an era when perfumes were often light, powdery, or aldehydic, Jasmin de Corse stood out for its unapologetic richness and depth. While heavy florals such as rose, tuberose, and violet were popular at the time, Coty's take on jasmine was particularly bold, setting it apart from more delicate floral compositions.

Coty’s choice of Corsica as an inspiration was not just sentimental—it was a marketing masterstroke. Corsica is renowned for its diverse and fragrant plant life, with its rugged cliffs, fertile valleys, and warm Mediterranean climate creating an ideal environment for the cultivation of intensely aromatic flowers. The jasmine grown in Corsica is known for its exceptional fragrance profile—sweeter, slightly wild, and touched with a natural sunlit warmth. This made it a prized ingredient in perfumery, adding to the perfume’s allure. The island’s mystique, history, and association with Napoleon Bonaparte (another famous Corsican) would have also played into the exotic and aspirational appeal of the fragrance.

The endorsement of Jasmin de Corse by notable figures like Tatiana Romanov, the Russian grand duchess, and Colette, the celebrated French writer, further cemented its reputation as a fragrance of elegance and artistic sophistication. Tatiana’s royal connection added an air of exclusivity and grandeur, making it desirable to women who longed for a scent with aristocratic refinement. Colette’s daily wear of the perfume, however, suggested a more sensual, bohemian quality—an appreciation for fragrance as an intimate, personal indulgence rather than just a luxury accessory. This duality—between regal elegance and free-spirited sensuality—perfectly encapsulated the essence of Jasmin de Corse.

At a time when perfumes were becoming more individualistic and expressive, Jasmin de Corse balanced tradition with modernity. While it aligned with the prevailing trend of floral femininity, its deep, smoky undertones and indolic richness set it apart. It was not a fragrance for the faint-hearted—it was a statement scent, an embodiment of bold, Mediterranean sensuality, offering wearers a touch of sunlit Corsican romance and timeless French elegance.

 

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet floral fragrance for women. Coty Jasmin de Corse is an very sweet, heavy and lingering with indolic jasmine with smoky undertones.

• Top notes: aldehyde C10, Moroccan cassie, Italian neroli, benzyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, "floralnol",  geranyl acetate, phenyl ethyl alcohol 
• Middle notes: "indol", Egyptian jasmine absolute, Tunisian orange blossom, Florentine orris, farnesol, methyl nonylacetaldehyde, Grasse jasmine absolute
• Base notes: octylic acetate, decylic acetate, Abyssinian civet, Indian musk ambrette, ambergris, Colombian tolu balsam, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan musk, styrolyl alcohol, Peru balsam, Himalayan costus, Canadian castoreum  

Chemist & Druggist - Volume 126, 1937:

"All the natural, haunting fragrance of jasmin blossoms, without the heavy, overpowering effect sometimes encountered, has been captured in Le Jasmin de Corse, which is sweet, fresh and elusive."

A 1926 ad reads:

"Jasmin de Corse - breathing of romance and dreams, poetic, illusive, - stirring the soul to exquisite longings."

 

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Jasmin de Corse is bright and intoxicating, a shimmering veil of aldehyde C10 that immediately lends a crisp, citrusy effervescence, like sunlight dancing on water. This initial burst is softened by the honeyed warmth of Moroccan cassie, a delicate yet complex note reminiscent of both violets and mimosa, with a touch of green spice weaving through its floral core. The Italian neroli adds a radiant, slightly bitter orange bloom—fresh and dew-kissed, its Mediterranean origins lending it a particularly luminous, sunlit quality.

Beneath this golden floral brightness, benzyl acetate introduces a soft, fruity-jasmine nuance, lending the composition a crystalline sweetness that feels both delicate and heady. Linalool and linalyl acetate continue this theme, their subtly soapy, fresh facets reminiscent of crushed petals and dewdrops on a warm morning. The perfume’s top notes settle into a whisper of methyl anthranilate, which contributes a rich, slightly grape-like sweetness, intertwining with floranol, an airy floral molecule that enhances the bouquet’s silken smoothness. Geranyl acetate and phenyl ethyl alcohol further deepen this opening impression, their rose-tinted floral facets adding body and dimension, as if the scent is gathering momentum—leading the wearer deeper into the heart of the composition.

As the fragrance unfolds, the indolic core of Egyptian jasmine absolute emerges in full bloom—thick, narcotic, and almost animalic. This jasmine, cultivated under the intense Egyptian sun, possesses an opulent depth, its creamy floralcy tempered by a faintly leathery, almost smoky facet. Intertwined with the jasmine is Tunisian orange blossom, an intensely sensual note, both bright and honeyed, yet possessing an underlying green sharpness, a contrast between citrus and warmth that makes it one of the most seductive flowers in perfumery. 

The Grasse jasmine absolute, sourced from the legendary fields of Southern France, introduces a different facet—more refined, buttery, and slightly fruity, a polished counterpart to the Egyptian variety’s raw sensuality. The heart is further enriched by Florentine orris, an exquisite note extracted from the rhizomes of iris plants after years of aging, its velvety, powdery nature lending an air of old-world elegance, like the lingering touch of vintage silk. Farnesol and methyl nonylacetaldehyde subtly enhance the floral arrangement, adding a natural, slightly honeyed greenness that keeps the bouquet from feeling too heavy.

The base is where Jasmin de Corse truly reveals its luxurious, sultry depths. Abyssinian civet, with its musky, warm, slightly leathery nuances, wraps the fragrance in an animalic sensuality, blending seamlessly with the natural, nutty musk of Indian musk ambrette. The rare and legendary ambergris adds a salty, almost oceanic depth—soft, mineralic, and subtly sweet, with an ethereal warmth that lingers on the skin like a whispered memory.

Resins and balsams infuse the dry-down with a rich, almost sacred warmth. Colombian tolu balsam, with its creamy vanilla-spice aroma, melds into the caramelized, smoky richness of Siamese benzoin, creating an effect reminiscent of antique wooden chests and golden incense smoke curling in the air. The complexity deepens further with the addition of Tibetan musk, a rare and almost mythical note that feels both darkly sensual and subtly powdery. Styrolyl alcohol adds a touch of soft, almond-like sweetness, while Peru balsam, with its rich, cinnamon-inflected warmth, reinforces the fragrance’s sensual, velvety finish.

The final notes come from Himalayan costus, an earthy, slightly woody root with a balsamic undertone, giving the perfume an almost tactile depth. The inclusion of Canadian castoreum adds a smoky, leathery whisper, evoking the image of well-worn suede gloves and aged parchment. The perfume settles into a lingering cloud of sensuous warmth, floral intoxication, and balsamic mystery, an homage to Corsica’s wild, untamed beauty and Coty’s ability to transform scent into poetry.

 Personal Perfumes:

In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies adopted the practice of suggesting that women of specific complexions or hair colors should choose particular perfumes. According to perfumers of the time, blondes were recommended to wear light perfumes, while brunettes were advised to opt for heavier Oriental fragrances.

For blondes, fragrances like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or were deemed suitable. On the other hand, brunettes were directed towards scents such as L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were suggested perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.

However, some perfumers offered alternative advice, recommending that women choose perfumes based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical appearance. This approach proved effective, resulting in the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, likely by individuals seeking gifts or unsure about their preferred fragrances.

For women of a sunny and joyous disposition, scents like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were suggested. Those with dreamy and elusive personalities were directed towards Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc. Exotic types were encouraged to explore fragrances such as Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique. Mysterious personalities were advised to try scents like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen. Finally, for those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were recommended.

A 1925 ad reads:

"For the Woman of the Dreamy Elusive Type: Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe & Lilas Blanc."

Bottles:

The little bottle below was used in the Coty chest or rack of perfume testers. The bottles are clear glass and the stoppers have a dauber at the end of the stopper plug. Each bottle stands 2.25" tall and was manufactured in France by the Depinoix glassworks. Both the wooden chest and the brass rack have a locking mechanism akin to a tantalus which prevents the bottles from being taken out. Only the stoppers of the bottles can be accessed. This device helped keep the bottles in place during travel as well.

Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:

One of the first bottles used was the Rene Lalique designed bottle that featured the double moth/butterfly frosted glass stopper, patinated in brown. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet (Lily of the Valley) in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances. The flacon is a simple square shape, measuring slightly over 3" per side, with straight shoulders, slightly convex, an indented base, a small neck and a fancy molded stopper. 

The Lalique flacons came in two sizes: 3.34" tall and 3.93" tall. The mark of a genuine Rene Lalique bottle is an impressed intaglio-molded long-tail L "LALIQUE" signature. See photo below. The bottle also has an elongated oval indentation in the center of the base. They were not marked "R. Lalique" so beware of fake signatures applied to old non-Lalique produced bottles. 

In 1914, to save money, Coty commissioned Baccarat to make the flacons based on the original Lalique designs. This caused a falling out in the friendship which resulted in the two men not talking for 13 years. Eventually, the two friends made up and Lalique designed one last bottle for him in 1927. Baccarat started making the bottles in 1916, the bottle being mold number 307. These bottles have sloping shoulders, not as straight as those found on the Lalique flacons. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. Like the Lalique flacons, the bottle also has an elongated oval indentation in the center of the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25" tall. You can see this bottle pictured in the book "Baccarat: The perfume bottles" by Addor Press, 1986, as #307. 

However, the Baccarat bottles also proved to be too expensive, and François Coty, who was excessively cheap, had the Lalique-copied bottles produced at his own glassworks. Like those by Baccarat, these bottles have sloping shoulders, not as straight as those found on the Lalique flacons. The bottles made at the Coty glassworks are marked "Coty" on the base either embossed in the glass or acid stamped. Unlike the Lalique and Baccarat examples, the Coty made bottle does not have the elongated oval indentation in the center of the base, presumably to cut costs. The Coty base is flat. The Coty marked bottle holds 1.6 oz of parfum and stands 3.25" tall, it was housed inside of a green leather covered box. Another size is 2.75" tall.

The beautiful moth stoppered bottle was finally discontinued in 1961.

Chain Cap Travel Bottle:

The bottle shown below has a gilded brass cap complete with its very own chain, I am dubbing it the Chain Cap Travel Flacon. The metal collar is marked with "Coty Paris." This bottle is the modified version of the Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon, which was the Rene Lalique designed bottle that featured the double moth frosted glass stopper. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances. This bottle was also made by Baccarat in 1916, mold number 307. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25' tall. This was later made by Coty's own glassworks and will be marked "Coty" on the base.  

 

The Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon's bottle shape was adapted in 1916 originally for L'Origan for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a gilt brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291. In 1928, these flat, square shaped crystal bottles were available in French leather cases. These bottles held Emeraude, Ambre Antique, L'Aimant, L'Origan,Jasmin de Corse, Chypre, Paris, and possibly others.

A 1922 ad reads:

"Coty's Jasmin de Corse, 1 oz cut crystal, gold cap and chain, regularly $7.00, now at $4.98."

 

Briar Stopper Flacon:

Rene Lalique designed this flacon in 1911, and it was later made by Coty's own glassworks after 1920. The clear glass bottle is tall, with a square base, and features a frosted glass stopper molded with the "briar" motif. The bottle was originally made to house the various Eau de Toilettes, but the design was later adapted to include different sizes including a miniature versions to house parfum. The most common miniature size is dubbed "Petite Modele" and debuted in 1936 and held 0.27 oz.

In the 1920s, the boxes had messages inside reminding the owners of the bottles that ""These exquisite crystal flacons are hand-cut in the Paris ateliers of COTY - Care must be taken in placing them on the dressing table to avoid breakage of the corners."

Sizes:

• 2" tall miniature (0.13 oz)
• 2.5" tall miniature (0.27 oz) - Petite Modele
• 3" tall (0.60 oz)
• 4" tall
• 4.25" tall (1.70 oz)
• 5" tall
• 5.25" tall (3 oz)
• 5.5" tall
• 6" tall
• 6.25" tall
• 6.5" tall
• 8.75" tall

Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:

The bottle has an embossed band along the upper part and a frosted glass stopper molded with flowers and ridge details. People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France.

The parfum bottle was available in three sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz. The bottles were discontinued in 1932. The 1/4 oz bottle itself was discontinued in 1934.

Bottles stand:

• 2.25" tall - 1/4 oz
• 2.75" tall - 1/2 oz
• 3.75" tall - 1 oz

Larger sizes of this bottle were also created for the boudoir, standing at 6" tall, 7.25" tall and 8" tall and hold Eau de Toilette. These bottles were also used for other Coty perfumes: Eau de Coty, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, La Rose Jacqueminot and L'Aimant.

• 3 oz bottle.

 

 Etui a Cigarette Presentation:

Also introduced in 1927, was the Etui a Cigarette presentation. Bottle stands 3 1/8" tall and is molded with Coty France on the base as it was made at Coty's own glassworks.

Metal Case (Etui Metal) Parfum Bottles:

A nice purse size bottle set was created and presented in your choice of a crackle finished or a platinum tone nickel hinged metal case around 1928. The bottle used was the banded bottle with the frosted glass stopper. The case stands 2 3/4" tall. It was invented by Philip A. Reutter and manufactured by Scoville Manufacturing Co. These containers were discontinued in 1933, when a new case was introduced, it was a rectangular shape.

Non-Banded Flacons with Frosted Stoppers:

Other bottle could be found with the frosted stoppers, this thin, rectangular 2.5 oz bottle probably held Eau de Toilette. The label reads "Jasmin de Corse Composition Originale de Coty Contenance Garantie 40 dr égale au flacon de luxe." (Corsican Jasmine Original Composition by Coty Guaranteed Capacity 40 dr equal to the luxury bottle.) Bottles and boxes were shipped to the USA to be filled. These bottles were filled in the United States using Coty's imported perfume extracts and domestic alcohol.  The  label message was used from at least 1913 to around 1937. It was trademarked in 1924.

Heliotrope Flacon:


The "Heliotrope" flacon, also known as "Coty Perfume No. 14" was first made by Rene Lalique in 1911 for the Coty perfume Heliotrope. It is roughly a triangular shape with canted corners along the bottom. The bottle was used for various Coty fragrances: Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Styx, Chypre, Muguet, Jacinthe, Jasmin de Corse, La Rose Jacqueminot, and Paris.

Airspun Face Powder:

Bottles from the 1950s Period:

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume seems to have been sold until 1950 then discontinued.


In 2004, to celebrate the firm’s 100th anniversary, Henri Coty, François’s son, commissioned the re-creation of his father’s Jasmin de Corse perfume, to be housed inside a French crystal flacon. These were sold in a limited number of just 200 only available to the French Market, and the perfume was reformulated by Daphné Bugey. Bottom of the bottle is marked in raised letters, "Bottle Made In France". This bottle measures 2" tall x 1 1/4" square. Other perfumes in this limited edition set included: Emeraude, L'Origan, and La Rose Jacqueminot. The perfume set was celebrated with the launch of a book Coty: The Brand of Visionary by Editions Assouline.