"Le Vertige" by Coty, debuted in 1906, encapsulates the vibrant spirit of its time, mirroring the dynamic performances of dance troupes and ballets. Picture a stage alive with the graceful ballet dancers and the spirited can-can performers, all swirling together in a dizzying whirl of excitement that echoes the fragrance's essence. Just as dancers enchant their audience with choreographed elegance, "Le Vertige" captivates with its lively blend of scents, inviting wearers to immerse themselves in the exhilarating rhythm of the dance.
Crafted by Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief perfumer, "Le Vertige," pronounced "LEH-VAIR-TEEJH," embodies the lively, dizzying tempo of dance. Its name, meaning "dizziness" in French, vividly portrays the energetic atmosphere reminiscent of the era's dance troupes and ballets.
So what does it smell like?
In 1928, a captivating transformation swept across "Vertige," infusing the composition with sparkling aldehydes. Just as a dance evolves with new choreography, this reformulation added a fresh twist to the fragrance's original dry, woody oriental essence. Like a dancer adorned with shimmering sequins, the addition of aldehydes brought a newfound brilliance to "Vertige," elevating its allure and enchantment. With this update, the fragrance became even more dynamic, captivating wearers with its vibrant and effervescent energy, much like the electrifying atmosphere of a performance illuminated by dazzling lights.
Le Vertige was classified as a floral woody oriental perfume for women. It begins with a sparkling citrusy aldehydic top, punctuated by a strong geranium note, followed by a fresh floral heart, layered over a warm, woody oriental base. For gala events, this perfume is a fruity blend with an amber background.
- Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, geranium, Sicilian bergamot
- Middle notes: Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, frankincense, labdanum
- Base notes: Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Virginia cedar, oakmoss, Tibetan musk, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, patchouli
Philippine Magazine, 1928:
"Of Coty's world-famed odeurs, three are pictured. La Fougeraie au Crepuscule expresses the dark, cool mystery of ferns at twilight. In a crystal column, A'Suma interprets the romantic splendor of the South Seas. Le Vertige, just created, offers an opportunity for giving a new gift of true aristocratic distinction."
Scent Profile:
Imagine stepping onto a grand stage, where each note of "Vertige" unfolds like a dancer gracefully moving through a performance. As you inhale, the opening act bursts forth with a sparkling citrusy aldehydic sensation, akin to the dazzling entrance of a prima ballerina. The lemon and Sicilian bergamot twirl in the air, while the strong geranium note adds depth, like a commanding presence on stage.
Transitioning to the heart of the fragrance is like witnessing the fluid movements of a dance troupe, as fresh floral notes take center stage. Grasse rose and jasmine pirouette gracefully, their delicate petals swirling around you, accompanied by the gentle fragrance of lily of the valley and the earthy richness of orris and frankincense. Labdanum adds a touch of mystery, like a veiled dancer waiting to be unveiled.
As the performance reaches its climax, the warm, woody oriental base emerges, enveloping you like the final embrace of a passionate dance. Mexican vanilla and ambergris add a sweet, sensual allure, while Virginia cedar and Mysore sandalwood provide a solid foundation, reminiscent of the sturdy stance of a skilled dancer. Oakmoss and patchouli lend an earthy depth, like the grounded steps of a seasoned performer, while vetiver and Tibetan musk add a hint of exotic intrigue to the ensemble.
For gala events, "Vertige" transforms into a fruity blend with an amber background, like the grand finale of a spectacular show. Each note harmonizes seamlessly, creating an olfactory symphony that leaves you enchanted, much like the mesmerizing performance of a captivating dance.
Bottles:
Original bottle for the 1906 version:
1936 Relaunch:
In 1936, "Le Vertige" underwent a transformative makeover, receiving not only a new bottle and packaging but likely a reformulation utilizing modern synthetic materials. This rejuvenation aimed to contemporize the fragrance, aligning it with evolving tastes and technological advancements in perfumery. The updated presentation would have likely enhanced its appeal, revitalizing "Le Vertige" for a new generation of discerning consumers.
That year, "Vertige de Coty" was described by Vogue as a muslin dress of spring, emitting an intoxicating, delicate, and youthful scent. Rester Jeune of the same year noted its continuity with Coty's luxurious lineage, evoking gallant parties and refined voluptuousness, presented in an engraved Baccarat crystal bottle within a box lined with pink satin and adorned with Louis XVI motifs.
Vogue, 1936:
"Vertige de Coty - nineteen years old, a muslin dress, spring sings and dances. Intoxicating, delicate and youthful scent."
Rester Jeune, 1936:
"Le Vertige de Coty, worthily continues a glorious lineage. Much more tenacious than it seems at first glance, it evokes gallant parties, refined voluptuousness. It's name is not new; it had long been the property of Coty, who took it over to baptize a new perfume. Le Vertige, a luxury perfume is presented in an engraved Baccarat crystal bottle; the box, the interior of which is padded with pink satin, reproduces Louis XVI subjects, like Saxony porcelain, in an authentic, of very pleasing color. The large model box is in colored Moroccan leather."
The Perfumery and Essential Oil Record of 1937 highlighted Coty's release of thirty new lines, singling out "Vertige" and "A'Suma" as the most noteworthy, albeit priced higher than the others. Vogue in 1937 likened Coty's "Vertige" to dry and heady champagne, packaged in a Baccarat bottle and a box lined with quilted white satin.
Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, Volume 28, 1937:
"This firm has brought out no less than thirty new lines during the winter, of which the two most recent "Vertige" and "A'Suma", are also the most noteworthy. All these lines are sold at fairly moderately priced, except for the these two."
Vogue, 1937:
"Coty's "Vertige" is as dry and heady as fine champagne. The Baccarat bottle, cut to catch the light, comes in a box lined with quilted white satin, studded with love-knots."
Marie-Claire's 1937 description characterized "Vertige by Coty" as warm with dominant floral and fruity notes, recommended for redheads. Lastly, The East African Annual of 1941 endorsed Coty's perfumes, including "Le Vertige," as ideal Christmas gifts, catering to various moods and motifs with exquisite packaging.
Marie-Claire, 1937:
"Vertige by Coty: Warm. Dominant note: flowers and fruits. For Redheads."
The East African Annual, 1941:
"Let your Christmas present, therefore, be the gift of gifts — a perfume by Coty. There is a Coty creation to answer every mood and motif — a perfected perfume for every feminine type. " Paris " for gaiety and vivacity, " Le Vertige " to add mystery to charms, Chypre for glamour - not forgetting L'Origan and L'Aimant. And each is so beautifully packed, so excessively acceptable."
1936 Bottle:
In 1936, "Le Vertige" parfum received a luxurious home worthy of its enchanting essence. Housed within a breathtaking Baccarat crystal flacon, model #760, designed by the esteemed Pierre Camin, the fragrance became a true objet d'art. The bottle, exquisitely crafted and elegantly cut to catch and refract light, exuded an aura of opulence and sophistication.
Atop the tapered crystal stopper, the script "La Vertige Coty" was delicately etched, adding a touch of timeless elegance to the presentation. Nestled within a presentation box lined with quilted rayon satin and adorned with intricate love knots, the flacon was not only a vessel for fragrance but also a symbol of refined taste and luxury.
To ensure its safekeeping, the bottle was cradled by little bolsters within the box, providing both protection and a sense of grandeur to the entire presentation. From its stunning exterior to its meticulously designed packaging, every detail of the "Le Vertige" parfum experience reflected the grace, beauty, and extravagance reminiscent of a mesmerizing dance performance.
The gleaming Baccarat crystal bottle of "Le Vertige" was offered in several sizes to accommodate various preferences: a 0.50 oz bottle standing 3" tall (No. 700), a 1 oz bottle standing 3.5" tall (No. 701), a 1.50 oz bottle standing 4" tall (No. 702), and a 2 oz bottle standing 4.25" tall (No. 703). Additionally, a larger option was available, standing 4.75" tall. Each size allowed for a choice tailored to individual needs and desires, ensuring that "Le Vertige" could be enjoyed in a manner that suited the wearer best.
On the bottom of a presentation box made for sale the Indian market a label reads:
"Our specialties originally created in the City of Perfume, at Suresnes, Paris, France are manufactured in England specially for India and imitations will give rise to action for the protection of the name "Coty" which is the exclusive property in India of Coty (England) Limited, Coty London."
In the 1930s, "Le Vertige" was available in four sizes, each priced differently:
- No. 703 (2 oz) - $35
- No. 702 (1.50 oz) - $18.50
- No. 701 (1 oz) - $10.00
- No. 700 (0.50 oz) - $6.00
However, by 1947, prices for the perfume had increased:
- No. 703 (2 oz) - $45
- No. 702 (1.50 oz) - $22.50
- No. 701 (1 oz) - $15.00
- No. 700 (0.50 oz) - $8.50
These price changes reflected shifts in economic conditions, production costs, and perhaps also the perceived value and demand for the fragrance over time.
Other bottles:
Over the years, "Le Vertige" was also presented in various other bottles, reflecting different design trends and preferences of the time. These alternate presentations may have included different shapes, sizes, and materials, providing options for consumers to choose from based on their personal tastes and styles. Each iteration of the bottle would have contributed to the overall allure and appeal of the fragrance, offering collectors and enthusiasts a diverse range of options to explore and appre
Fate of the Fragrance:
During World War II, the importation of Coty's popular fragrances, Le Vertige and Chypre, was severely restricted in the United States. In response to this, Coty issued an apology to American women in 1943 through a newspaper advertisement. The ad, titled "An Explanation We Owe to the American Woman," expressed the company's regret over the unavailability of these beloved perfumes. It emphasized that Coty prided itself on offering a diverse range of high-quality perfumes, which had become limited due to the war.
The newspaper ad reads "No other firm in the world possesses such a variety of great perfume as our, These are at once our wealth and the source of our pride. Inasmuch as two of our world-famous perfumes, Chypre and Le Vertige, will shortly not be available, we feel we owe an explanation to the American women who treasures these particular fragrances. A minimum of thirty ingredients from world-wide sources is required to make a great Coty blend. Many of these sources have been closed by enemy occupation. What is more, we have eben entirely cut off from France ever since her complete invasion in November 1942. Therefore, despite our foresight and planning, the available stocks of some of our perfumes are limited. Great blends, the only ones which deserve the name of perfume - such as the Coty classics -can be produced only from the highest grade ingredients. There are no substitutes for the production of such perfumes."
The advertisement explained that creating great Coty blends required a minimum of thirty ingredients sourced from around the world. Due to enemy occupation, many of these sources were no longer accessible. Additionally, the complete invasion of France in November 1942 had cut off Coty's supply lines, further exacerbating the situation. Despite the company's foresight and planning, the stocks of certain perfumes had become limited.
Coty's commitment to quality was highlighted in their decision to halt the production of Chypre and Le Vertige rather than compromise by using inferior substitutes. The ad underlined that only the highest-grade ingredients could produce the classic Coty perfumes, and there were no acceptable alternatives. Therefore, until they could once again access the proper raw materials, the production of these fragrances was put on hold, demonstrating Coty's dedication to maintaining the integrity and quality of their perfumes.
"Le Vertige" continued to be sold into the 1960s, as evidenced by the creation of a Parfum de Toilette version. Although the exact date of discontinuation is unknown, its presence in the market during this period indicates sustained popularity and demand for the fragrance. Despite potential shifts in trends and consumer preferences over the years, "Le Vertige" maintained its allure and relevance, remaining a cherished choice for perfume enthusiasts well beyond its initial introduction.
No comments:
Post a Comment