Dulce Vanilla by Coty c1999

Vanilla-based perfumes have maintained a timeless popularity in the fragrance world for several reasons. Firstly, vanilla is inherently comforting and familiar, evoking feelings of warmth and sweetness. Its scent is often associated with indulgence and luxury, reminiscent of homemade desserts and cozy environments. Additionally, vanilla possesses a versatile nature that complements a wide range of other fragrance notes, allowing perfumers to create complex and enticing scent compositions.

The science behind the appeal of vanilla in perfumery lies in its molecular structure and olfactory characteristics. Vanilla contains compounds such as vanillin, which contribute to its distinctive aroma. Vanillin is a phenolic aldehyde that emits a rich, sweet scent with creamy undertones. This compound interacts with olfactory receptors in the nose, triggering positive sensory responses associated with pleasure and satisfaction.

Historically, vanilla has been a key ingredient in perfumery for centuries. Its popularity surged in the 20th century with the introduction of iconic vanilla-based fragrances such as Vanilla Fields by Coty, launched in 1993, and Vanilla Musk in 1994. These fragrances helped popularize the use of vanilla as a dominant note in perfumes and paved the way for subsequent creations.

Dulce Vanilla represents a contemporary take on vanilla-centric perfumery, offering a darker and more indulgent interpretation of the classic scent. Inspired by dulce de leche, a caramelized milk confection popular in Latin America, this fragrance combines the sweetness of caramel with the creamy richness of vanilla. Notes of nutmeg add a hint of spice, while buttercream enhances the decadent quality of the composition. White lily and gardenia contribute floral accents, balancing the sweetness with a touch of freshness.

Overall, vanilla-based perfumes continue to captivate fragrance enthusiasts due to their comforting and versatile nature, making them a perennial favorite in the world of scent.

Coty Amphora Pottery Perfume Bottles

The 1940 release of Coty's "Informal Fragrances" collection is a fascinating piece of perfumery history. By introducing their most popular scents in Eau de Toilette concentrations, Coty made their luxurious fragrances more accessible to a wider audience. The decision to house these fragrances in color-coordinated amphora-shaped stoneware bottles added an extra layer of elegance and distinctiveness to the collection.

Here is a summary of the fragrances and their corresponding bottle colors:

• Emeraude: Light Green
• Chypre: Lighter Green
• L'Aimant: Pink
• L'Origan: Brown
• Paris: Blue

These amphora bottles not only represented the essence of each fragrance but also made them visually appealing and collectible. This innovative packaging approach, coupled with the fragrances' popularity, likely contributed to the success and lasting legacy of Coty's "Informal Fragrances."

The Coty "Informal Fragrances" collection, introduced in 1940, featured beautifully designed amphora bottles crafted by the Zanesville Stoneware Company of Ohio. Each bottle, measuring 5.5 inches at the lip of the spout, was capable of holding five ounces of Eau de Toilette. The bottles were designed to be visually appealing and practical, making the luxurious fragrances more accessible to a broader audience.

These amphora-shaped stoneware bottles were color-coordinated to match the fragrances they contained. Emeraude was housed in a light green bottle, Chypre in a lighter green, L'Aimant in pink, L'Origan in brown, and Paris in blue. Each bottle was sealed with a unique bronze-colored metal capped cork, adding an extra touch of elegance to the design.

Some of the bottles still retain their original labels on their bellies and bases. The bottom label reads:

"Coty New York Paris Informal fragrance. Use this lovely Eau de Toilette as lavishly as you choose. A generous sprinkle in your bath--a dash in your hand basin--in your final shampoo rinse--on your lingerie or 'kerchief'. Impart a touch of fragrance to your accessories or your furs. Take it with you to 'freshen up' while traveling. Cont. 5 oz. Compounded in U.S.A."

Coty suggested various ways to use these fragrances, emphasizing their versatility. They recommended sprinkling the Eau de Toilette in a bath, adding a dash to a hand basin, using it in a final shampoo rinse, or applying it to lingerie or handkerchiefs. The fragrance could also be used to impart a pleasant scent to accessories or furs, and the bottle could be taken along for freshening up while traveling.

The Coty "Informal Fragrances" amphora bottles are not only a testament to the brand's commitment to quality and elegance but also a reflection of a time when fragrance was an integral part of daily life. These collectible items continue to be cherished by fragrance enthusiasts and vintage collectors for their unique design and historical significance.

Coty's Cordon Colognes

Coty's Cordon Colognes were very popular in pre-revolution era Russia.

La Violette Pourpre by Coty c1906

La Violette Pourpre by Coty, launched in 1906, epitomizes the essence of its time period in several ways. Firstly, the early 20th century was characterized by a flourishing of art, culture, and fashion, especially in Europe. This period saw the emergence of Art Nouveau, a style characterized by flowing lines, organic shapes, and motifs inspired by nature. Perfume, being intimately linked with luxury and fashion, reflected these artistic trends.

François Coty, the creator of La Violette Pourpre, was a pivotal figure in the perfume industry during this era. His innovative approach to fragrance production, which emphasized the use of synthetic materials to create new scents, revolutionized the perfume industry and paved the way for modern perfumery techniques.

The choice of purple violet as the central theme of La Violette Pourpre is significant. In the Language of Flowers, a Victorian-era code used to convey sentiments through floral arrangements, the violet symbolizes faithfulness and loyalty, making it an apt choice for a perfume associated with the sentiment "I'll always be true." This symbolism resonated deeply with the values and ideals of the time, particularly in the context of romantic relationships and courtship rituals.

 

Lilas Pourpre by Coty c1911

In 1911, the renowned perfumer François Coty unveiled the exquisite fragrance Le Lilas Pourpre.

The Romanov Grand Duchesses had a particular fondness for the floral scents crafted by the French house of Coty. Among them, Anastasia was captivated by the delicate notes of La Violette Pourpre, while Olga cherished the elegant aroma of La Rose Jacqueminot. Tatiana had a penchant for the exotic scent of Jasmin de Corse, and Maria's favorite was the enchanting Le Lilas Pourpre. These fragrances became a signature part of their refined and sophisticated personas, highlighting their individual preferences and styles.

Coty Perfume Gift Sets Pour L'Occasion 1938 Advertisement

Coty Perfume Gift Sets "Pour L'Occasion" 1938 Advertisement.

La Jacinthe by Coty c1914

La Jacinthe by Coty was launched in 1914.

L'Ambreine c1906

L'Ambreine by Coty, launched in 1906, carries with it a name that evokes both mystery and luxury. The word "Ambreine" is derived from the French word ambre, meaning ambergris, and the suffix -ine, commonly used to denote a substance or compound. In this case, the term “L’Ambreine” would be pronounced as “lahm-brin,” with the emphasis on the second syllable. Amber, historically prized for its warm, rich color and deep, resinous scent, conjures images of golden-hued jewels, ancient treasures, and the earthy warmth of the natural world. The name itself evokes a sense of opulence and sensuality, a fragrance inspired by the mysteries of the East, with its exotic allure and complex, animalic undertones.

The early 20th century, when L'Ambreine was introduced, was a time of tremendous change and innovation. The period, straddling the tail end of the Belle Époque and the dawn of the modern era, was marked by both technological advances and a yearning for escapism. Women of the time were entering new realms of independence and freedom, and fashions reflected this evolution. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements were in full bloom, with intricate, flowing designs and bold geometric shapes inspiring everything from architecture to fashion. The trend toward more exotic and oriental-inspired fragrances paralleled these aesthetic shifts, reflecting a fascination with the faraway and the unknown. The demand for perfumes with rich, complex compositions, often incorporating animalic or "oriental" notes, was at its height, and women sought fragrances that matched their evolving roles as both liberated individuals and sophisticated consumers of luxury goods.

Chypre by Coty c1908

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 marked a significant moment in the history of perfumery. This period, the early 20th century, was characterized by a shift in fragrance trends and the emergence of new olfactory styles. The word "chypre" itself comes from the French word for Cyprus, and this genre of perfumes is known for its woody, mossy, and citrusy accords.

The early 1900s were a time of cultural and artistic change, with the Belle Époque giving way to the more modern and progressive sensibilities of the early 20th century. Perfumery was undergoing a similar transformation, moving away from the heavy, floral scents of the Victorian era towards lighter, more abstract compositions.

François Coty, the founder of the Coty perfume house, was a pivotal figure in this evolution. He was instrumental in popularizing the concept of designer perfumes and making them accessible to a wider audience. Coty's Chypre fragrance was groundbreaking for its innovative blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, which departed from the traditional single-flower scents that were prevalent at the time.

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 would have occurred against the backdrop of a rapidly changing society, where new ideas and artistic movements were flourishing. It represented a departure from the past and a bold step into the future of perfumery, setting the stage for the diverse range of fragrances that would follow in the decades to come.

Jasmin de Corse by Coty 1906

The launch of Jasmin de Corse by Coty in 1906 marks a significant moment in the history of perfumery, reflecting the tastes and trends of the early 20th century. This period saw a flourishing interest in fragrances, with perfumes becoming essential accessories for both men and women, symbolizing luxury, refinement, and sophistication.

Corsica, the birthplace of François Coty, holds a special significance in the creation of Jasmin de Corse. Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean Sea known for its stunning natural beauty and rich floral diversity, particularly jasmine, serves as the inspiration for this fragrance. Jasmine, with its intoxicating floral aroma, has long been revered in perfumery for its sensuous and exotic qualities. Corsican jasmine, in particular, is renowned for its exceptional fragrance, often described as heady, floral, and slightly sweet, making it a prized ingredient in perfumery.

In Jasmin de Corse, Coty masterfully captures the essence of Corsican jasmine, blending it with other complementary notes to create a scent that exudes elegance and allure. The fragrance likely evokes the lush landscapes and fragrant blooms of Corsica, transporting wearers to a romantic and exotic paradise with each spritz.

The endorsements of notable figures like Tatiana Romanov, a Russian princess, and Colette, a renowned French writer, further cemented Jasmin de Corse's status as a beloved fragrance of the era. Tatiana Romanov's endorsement would have added a touch of royal allure to the perfume, while Colette's daily wear of Jasmin de Corse speaks to its timeless appeal and versatility. Their admiration for the fragrance underscores its universal appeal and ability to captivate individuals from different backgrounds and cultures.

Overall, the launch of Jasmin de Corse in 1906 encapsulates the spirit of its time, embodying the opulence, romance, and allure of early 20th-century perfumery. Its association with Corsica and jasmine adds an exotic and luxurious dimension to the fragrance, making it a beloved classic that continues to enchant perfume enthusiasts to this day.

Chanel No. 5 and Coty

Chanel No. 5 and Coty

There is a rumor that has been going around since the 1920's. It seems that some people believe that Francois Coty was the inventor of Chanel No.5. People maintain that Chanel No. 5 was an act of industrial espionage and that its formula was stolen from a competitor's laboratory in the south of France. This theory is part of that long, tangled history that connected Coco Chanel and her friend - and -competitor - Francois Coty.

As Edmond Charles-Roux tells it: "The development of No.5 …proceeded in a rather heavy atmosphere reminiscent of the whispered machinations that herald a palace revolution…Plenty of intrigue, sudden reversals and secret alliances. Nothing was missing from the script not even the spectacular disappearance of one of Coty’s top chemists. The deserter fled, clutching to his bosom the fruit of long years of research: the formula for a perfume Coty could not make up his mind to put on the market because it cost so much to produce. That was one reason why this chemist went over to the enemy: he was afraid his invention would never be available to the public…Was his name Ernest Beaux? All queries being met by the impenetrable silence of those who know, we must be content to leave this point in darkness. But one thing is certain: about seven years later, Coty was producing a perfume that was almost exactly the same as Chanel No. 5. But although I sold tolerably well, L’Aimant never made a dent in the Chanel market.”

A closer look revealed a crazy mixed-up, story. On the other hand Yvonne Coty always claimed that Chanel No. 5 was named not after the number of the fragrance vial but after the number of “a station in Coty’s laboratory at either Suresnes or at the Rallet Factory in the south of France.” She seemed to believe that there was some possible buried connection. However, Ernest Beaux never worked for Coty. He has spent his entire career at Rallet, so he couldn’t have been the fleeing chemist. Perhaps it was another perfumer at Coty who absconded with the formula and passed it along to Ernest Beaux - who then handed it to Coco Chanel. One thing is for certain, in 1927, as Charles-Roux says, someone at Coty did have a copy of the Chanel No. 5 formula or something extremely similar to it. Coty’s fragrance L’Aimant, launched that year, was too close to have been any kind of accident. The question remains, did Coty have the formula all along and was Chanel No. 5 the copy?

There is a perfectly simple reason why Coty had a copy of the formula for a Chanel No. 5 perfume in 1927. A year before, Coty’s massive company had swallowed up one of his smaller competitors, the Chiris perfume house. Coty had been closely involved with the operations at Chiris for several decades. At the turn of the century, he has trained in their labs and became business partners with several of the owners of that family company. Since WWI, he has acted as those Chiris was his business alone, in many ways and its perfume “his” holdings. It was this sense of proprietorship that would fuel an intense and not always friendly spirit of competition between Coty and Coco Chanel.

In 1926, Coty had formally purchased the business and all of its holdings, which included the A. Rallet & Co perfume outfit. All the info that Coty needed to produce his own version of Chanel No.5 was sitting right there in the archives. But the name on top of that formula was not Chanel. No. 5. What he had acquired was the recipe for another perfume, one that was invented in 1914. It smelled unmistakably like Chanel No. 5, for one simple reason: it was the secret scent behind the world’s most famous perfume. This time, the crazy story was true. 

Most of this info was taken from the book "Secret of Chanel No. 5".

Here is more info on my Chanel blog site: https://chanelperfumebottles.blogspot.com/2013/05/chanel-no-5-by-chanel-c1921.html

Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

 Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, arrived during a fascinating period characterized by dramatic shifts in art, culture, and society. The early 20th century, especially in the years leading up to World War I, was a time of innovation and change. The Art Nouveau movement was flourishing, influencing everything from architecture and jewelry to the design of everyday objects. This era saw a fascination with the exotic and the ancient, as Western society was increasingly enchanted by the mystique of past civilizations.

When François Coty marketed Ambre Antique, he tapped into the romanticism and fascination with ancient cultures, particularly that of Ancient Egypt. His claim that Ambre Antique was the perfume of "ancient Egypt and gilded queens" was not just a marketing strategy but a reflection of the era's broader cultural zeitgeist. This was a time when the discovery of Egyptian artifacts, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, captivated the world, although Coty's launch predates this discovery. Nonetheless, there was already a significant interest in Egyptology and the grandeur of ancient empires. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens." 

Ambergris, one of the key ingredients in Ambre Antique, has been treasured for centuries. This substance, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, was highly valued for its unique fragrance and rarity. In ancient times, and particularly in Ancient Egypt, ambergris was considered precious and was often used in perfumes and incense. Its scent was associated with luxury and divinity.

In Ancient Egypt, scents and perfumes held significant cultural and spiritual importance. Perfumes were not merely used for their pleasing aromas; they were integral to religious rituals, embalming processes, and personal grooming. Ambergris, with its musky and sweet smell, was highly prized. It was believed to have both physical and metaphysical properties, often used in ceremonies to honor the gods and in preparations for the afterlife.

Coty Perfume Ad c1949

Coty Perfume Ad c1949 showing the following perfumes: L'Aimant, Emeraude, L'origan, Paris, Muguet des Bois, Chypre, A'Suma, L'Origan, Muse and Le Vertige.

Curious finds: the Cinderella Slipper presentation, the Fragrance Bar, Toilet Water & Purser set, dusting powder, talc, toilet water, perfume, soap, etc.

A'Suma by Coty c1934

Transport yourself to France in the year 1934, a time when the world was still reeling from the aftermath of the First World War and on the brink of another global conflict. In this era, the Western world held a fascination with exotic locales in the Far East, such as Bali and Japan. These places were often seen through a romanticized lens, imbued with notions of mystery, sensuality, and adventure.

In the collective imagination of the Western populace, Bali was depicted as a paradisiacal island shrouded in the allure of the unknown. It was envisioned as a land of lush tropical landscapes, pristine beaches, and enchanting cultural traditions. Bali symbolized a retreat from the constraints of Western civilization, a place where one could indulge in exotic pleasures and escape the mundane realities of everyday life.

Japan, on the other hand, evoked images of ancient traditions, refined aesthetics, and enigmatic beauty. It was viewed as a land of contrasts, where modernity coexisted with timeless customs. The allure of Japan lay in its mystique, its rich history, and its ability to captivate the imagination with its blend of tradition and innovation.

 

Against this backdrop of fascination with the Far East, A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise" made its debut in France. Conjured up by the creative minds of François Coty and Vincent Roubert, this sensuous perfume transported its wearers to a moonlit tropical beach in Bali, evoking the intoxicating ambiance of this exotic locale. With its blend of aromatic notes and evocative imagery, A'Suma captured the essence of the Far East and allowed its users to experience a fleeting moment of escapism and indulgence.

1945 Advertisement for Coty Perfume and Powder

 Vintage 1945 Sears (Spring and Summer) catalog page advertising Coty perfumes and cosmetics.

L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Complice de Francois Coty c1973

In 1934, Francois Coty conceived Complice ('Accomplice'), a fragrance ahead of its time. However, fate intervened as Coty passed away before his creation could grace the market. For nearly four decades, Complice lay dormant, waiting for its moment to shine. In 1973, the Coty company finally unveiled this long-awaited gem, encased in a bottle echoing the design aesthetics of its inception era. The journey of Complice is one of perseverance and legacy, with its name officially trademarked in 1939, a testament to the company's assertion of its use since 1938.

In a masterful stroke of homage and revitalization, the Coty perfume company embarked on a journey to resurrect the illustrious legacy of its founder in the realm of perfumery. With the relaunch of Complice, Coty sought to reintroduce a touch of the glamour and sophistication for which the brand had long been celebrated.

The revival of Complice was more than just a reintroduction of a fragrance; it was a strategic move to elevate the Coty brand back to its esteemed position among high-end perfumes. By imbuing the presentation with elegance and refinement, Coty aimed to dispel any notion of its products being confined to the shelves of drugstores and discount shops. The meticulously designed bottles, reminiscent of the exquisite creations of the legendary Rene Lalique, served as a visual testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that defined Coty's perfumes.

In embracing the aesthetic sensibilities of Lalique, Coty reaffirmed the notion that perfume was not merely a commodity but a form of art. The intricate designs of the bottles mirrored the intricacies of the fragrances they contained, each element meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication.

With Complice, Coty invited the world to rediscover the allure of perfume as a symbol of elegance and indulgence. The relaunch was a statement of Coty's enduring commitment to excellence and innovation in the realm of fragrance, ensuring that its founder's legacy would continue to shine brightly in the annals of perfumery history.

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Le Vertige by Coty c1906

"Le Vertige" by Coty, debuted in 1906, encapsulates the vibrant spirit of its time, mirroring the dynamic performances of dance troupes and ballets. Picture a stage alive with the graceful ballet dancers and the spirited can-can performers, all swirling together in a dizzying whirl of excitement that echoes the fragrance's essence. Just as dancers enchant their audience with choreographed elegance, "Le Vertige" captivates with its lively blend of scents, inviting wearers to immerse themselves in the exhilarating rhythm of the dance.

Crafted by Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief perfumer, "Le Vertige," pronounced "LEH-VAIR-TEEJH," embodies the lively, dizzying tempo of dance. Its name, meaning "dizziness" in French, vividly portrays the energetic atmosphere reminiscent of the era's dance troupes and ballets.

Masumi Toujours by Coty c2001

Masumi Toujours, a fragrance introduced by Coty in 2001, is a contemporary interpretation and extension of the classic Masumi fragrance, which debuted in 1967. As a flanker scent, Masumi Toujours builds upon the timeless essence of its predecessor while infusing it with modern elements, creating a scent that pays homage to the original yet stands out with its own unique character. It captures the essence of enduring elegance while embracing the spirit of the present, making it a captivating choice for those seeking a blend of tradition and innovation in their fragrance experience.