La Violette Pourpre by Coty, launched in 1906, epitomizes the essence of its time period in several ways. Firstly, the early 20th century was characterized by a flourishing of art, culture, and fashion, especially in Europe. This period saw the emergence of Art Nouveau, a style characterized by flowing lines, organic shapes, and motifs inspired by nature. Perfume, being intimately linked with luxury and fashion, reflected these artistic trends.
François Coty, the creator of La Violette Pourpre, was a pivotal figure in the perfume industry during this era. His innovative approach to fragrance production, which emphasized the use of synthetic materials to create new scents, revolutionized the perfume industry and paved the way for modern perfumery techniques.
The choice of purple violet as the central theme of La Violette Pourpre is significant. In the Language of Flowers, a Victorian-era code used to convey sentiments through floral arrangements, the violet symbolizes faithfulness and loyalty, making it an apt choice for a perfume associated with the sentiment "I'll always be true." This symbolism resonated deeply with the values and ideals of the time, particularly in the context of romantic relationships and courtship rituals.
The fact that La Violette Pourpre was a favorite fragrance of Anastasia Romanov adds another layer of historical and cultural significance. With her vivacious spirit and clever demeanor, she was a captivating figure of her time. Her physical attributes, such as her long flowing auburn hair with sparkling gold highlights and mischievous blue eyes, undoubtedly contributed to her charm and allure.
Her tomboyish flair suggests a spirited and adventurous nature, indicating a willingness to break free from traditional expectations and explore the world on her own terms. This characteristic likely endeared her to those around her, adding depth and liveliness to her personality. The fragrance's association with her suggests that it embodied qualities that appealed to her spirited nature, perhaps evoking a sense of femininity and elegance tempered with a hint of mischief.
Her preference for La Violette Pourpre despite trying many perfumes underscores its enduring appeal and the personal significance it held for her. In a time when perfume was not just a luxury item but also a reflection of one's personality and identity, La Violette Pourpre would have been more than just a fragrance—it would have been a part of Anastasia's individuality and self-expression. Her personality traits add richness to her story and contribute to her enduring fascination as a historical figure.
Overall, La Violette Pourpre by Coty encapsulates the spirit of its time with its artistic craftsmanship, innovative approach to perfumery, and symbolic resonance with the values and sensibilities of the early 20th century. Its association with Anastasia Romanov further adds to its allure and cultural significance, making it a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? La Violette Pourpre is classified as a soliflore fragrance for women. Since violet extract is very hard to produce, a blend made up of synthetic and natural extracts of other ingredients was composed to make an accord of violets, most notable of these was the addition of ionone and linalool.
- Top notes: cassie, almond, bergamot, orange peel, geranium, linalool
- Middle notes: violet, orris, rose, tuberose, ionone, jasmine, mignonette
- Base notes: vanilla, tolu balsam, musk, civet
Scent Profile:
As you inhale the top notes of La Violette Pourpre, you're greeted by a delicate dance of aromas. The citrusy freshness of bergamot and orange peel immediately awakens your senses, mingling with the sweet floral notes of cassie and geranium. There's a hint of nuttiness from the almond, adding depth and richness to the bouquet. Linalool, with its clean and floral scent, weaves through these notes, subtly enhancing their harmony.
Moving into the heart of the fragrance, the scent of violets takes center stage. It's as if you're standing in a lush garden, surrounded by blooming flowers. The violet is soft and powdery, evoking a sense of nostalgia and romance. Orris and rose lend a touch of elegance and refinement, while tuberose and jasmine add a hint of sensuality and allure. The ionone, with its violet-like aroma, amplifies the floral accord, creating an enchanting symphony of scents. Mignonette, with its green and slightly spicy aroma, adds a subtle twist, enhancing the complexity of the composition.
As the fragrance settles on your skin, the base notes emerge, grounding the scent with warmth and sensuality. Vanilla lends a creamy sweetness, wrapping around the floral notes like a soft embrace. Tolu balsam adds a resinous richness, while musk and civet provide a subtle animalic quality, adding depth and complexity to the fragrance.
Overall, La Violette Pourpre is a captivating olfactory journey that transports you to a garden in full bloom. Its carefully crafted blend of natural and synthetic ingredients creates a harmonious symphony of scents, evoking the elegance and romance of the early 20th century.
Personal Perfumes:
It's fascinating to see how perfume marketing strategies in the 1920s and 1930s tailored fragrances to fit specific characteristics like hair color or personality types. This approach created a sense of personalization and allure, enticing consumers to find the perfect scent to complement their individuality.
For blondes, the recommendation was to opt for light, delicate perfumes like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. These scents likely embodied a sense of femininity and freshness, evoking images of sunny days and blooming flowers.
Brunettes, on the other hand, were encouraged to embrace heavier, more opulent fragrances such as L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. These perfumes would have exuded a sense of richness and sophistication, perfectly complementing the depth and intensity associated with darker hair.
Red-haired women were advised to wear fragrances that complemented their fiery personalities, such as Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen. These scents likely embodied a sense of warmth and vibrancy, mirroring the dynamic nature often attributed to redheads.
Alternatively, some perfumers eschewed the idea of matching perfume to physical attributes and instead suggested selecting scents based on personality or mood. This approach allowed for a more nuanced exploration of fragrance, encouraging individuals to connect with scents that resonated with their inner selves.
For those of a sunny and joyous disposition, fragrances like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended, capturing the essence of happiness and vitality. Dreamy and elusive types were directed towards scents like Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc, which likely evoked a sense of romance and whimsy.
Exotic and mysterious personalities were advised to explore fragrances such as Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, which would have added an element of intrigue and allure. Meanwhile, those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments were steered towards scents like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan, embodying elegance and refinement.
Ultimately, these marketing techniques succeeded in capturing the imaginations of consumers, leading to the purchase of thousands of bottles of perfume. Whether based on physical attributes or personality traits, these fragrances became more than just scents—they were expressions of identity and style, enhancing the wearer's sense of self and leaving a lasting impression.
Bottles:
It's intriguing how the earliest packaging of La Violette Pourpre remains shrouded in mystery, leaving room for speculation and imagination. While the exact bottle used for the initial releases may be unknown, it adds an air of mystique to the perfume's history, allowing enthusiasts to ponder the possibilities.
Given the era in which La Violette Pourpre was introduced, it's likely that the bottle reflected the prevailing design trends of the time. Glass bottles, often adorned with intricate detailing and elegant shapes, were commonly used to house perfumes in the early 20th century. These bottles served not only as vessels for fragrance but also as objets d'art, contributing to the overall sensory experience of perfume consumption.
Considering the luxurious nature of La Violette Pourpre and its association with prestige and refinement, it's plausible that the original bottle was crafted with care and attention to detail, befitting the sophistication of the fragrance it contained. Whether adorned with ornate embellishments or featuring a more understated elegance, the bottle would have been designed to complement the essence of La Violette Pourpre enhancing its allure and appeal to consumers.
While the specific bottle used for the earliest issues of La Violette Pourpre may remain a mystery, its absence from historical records only adds to the intrigue surrounding this iconic fragrance. It invites us to appreciate not only the perfume itself but also the artistry and craftsmanship that went into creating the vessels that housed it, leaving an indelible mark on the world of perfumery.
In 1913, Baccarat unveiled a stunning cut crystal flacon destined for Coty's La Rose Jacqueminot perfume. Identified as model number 225, this exquisite creation boasted a tall, square silhouette exuding timeless elegance. Its crowning glory was the round cut crystal stopper, featuring a subtly pointed apex, which imparted an aura of grandeur.
Coty, known for their discerning taste, frequently adopted this graceful design for various fragrances, underscoring its versatility and enduring charm. The allure of this flacon lies not only in its beauty but also in its rarity, making it a highly sought-after treasure among collectors. Securing one in flawless condition, particularly with an intact stopper, speaks volumes about its significance as a prized centerpiece in any collection.
Cylindrical Frosted Stopper Bottles:
Starting as early as 1923, a novel style of bottle emerged, seemingly tailored for perfumes like Chypre, L'Origan, Paris, Lilas Blanc, Iris, Heliotrope, Violette Pourpre, and L'Effleurt. These bottles sported a cylindrical shape and were complemented by the familiar frosted stopper. Interestingly, two variations of stoppers have been identified, as depicted in the accompanying photos.
It's important not to be misled by assertions that this design is associated with Lalique or Lalique-designed bottles. Contrary to such claims, Lalique played no part in its creation. Despite mistaken attributions to both Lalique and Baccarat, this bottle does not feature in the catalogs of either company, nor was it part of their molds. Instead, it was manufactured by Coty's own glassworks in France, identifiable by the acid stamp "Coty France" on its base.
These bottles have been discovered in various sizes, including heights of 2.5 inches, 3 inches (for the 0.80 oz variant), 3.25 inches, and 3.75 inches.
Notably, several different boxes were utilized for packaging. One such box, rectangular and covered in paper, bears the inscription: "The bottle, label, and box of this item have been registered in accordance with the law and are the property of Coty. This specialty and its accessories were created by Coty in factories at the Cite des Parfums in Suresnes, near Paris (France). Our products are the exclusive property of Coty Incorporated for the United States of America, where they are manufactured. Counterfeits will be rigorously pursued. All our specialties are sold under the Coty name without any first name." This inscription serves as a testament to Coty's commitment to authenticity and protection of their brand.
Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:
The bottle features an embossed band along its upper part and a frosted glass stopper adorned with molded flowers and ridge details. Despite claims by some sellers, this design is not associated with Lalique or Lalique-designed bottles. Lalique's involvement in its creation is non-existent. Though often mistakenly attributed to Lalique or Baccarat, this bottle does not appear in the catalogs of either company, nor was it part of their molds. Instead, it was produced by Coty's own glassworks in France.
To verify its authenticity, look for two examples of Coty marks molded into the base of the bottles. These marks serve as clear indicators of their origin and distinguish them from falsely attributed pieces.
This parfum bottle was offered in three sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz, catering to various preferences and needs. However, production of these bottles ceased in 1932. Additionally, the smallest size, the 1/4 oz bottle, was discontinued two years later, in 1934. Each size of the bottle had distinct dimensions:
- The 1/4 oz bottle stood at 2.25 inches tall.
- The 1/2 oz bottle was slightly taller at 2.75 inches.
- The largest size, the 1 oz bottle, measured 3.75 inches in height.
Moreover, larger versions of these bottles were crafted for the boudoir, standing at 6 inches, 7.25 inches, and 8 inches tall, specifically designed to hold Eau de Toilette. These larger bottles were not exclusive to La Violet Pourpre but were also used for other Coty perfumes such as Eau de Coty, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, La Rose Jacqueminot, Heliotrope, and L'Aimant. One such example is the 3 oz bottle, which offered a more substantial supply of fragrance for enthusiasts.
Yellow Mimosa Packaging:
In 1935, Coty introduced a series of limited edition packaging ensembles featuring vibrant mimosa prints set against yellow backgrounds, adding a touch of seasonal charm to their floral parfums. This collection, possibly named Feuilles d'Automne (Autumn Leaves), included an array of fragrances such as Muguet, Oeillet France, La Rose Jacqueminot, Heliotrope, Ambre Antique, Lilas Pourpre, and Violette Pourpre. Over time, additional Coty perfumes, including Emeraude, Iris, L'Aimant, and L'Origan, were incorporated into this distinctive packaging design, expanding its appeal to a broader range of fragrances within the Coty collection.
Fate of the Fragrance:
La Rose Jacqueminot was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown. Despite its eventual departure from the market, its legacy endures, leaving behind a rich tapestry of memories and a lingering fragrance in the minds of those who cherished it.
While the specific reasons for its discontinuation may remain a mystery, it's not uncommon for perfumes to come and go as trends shift and consumer preferences evolve. Nevertheless, La Rose Jacqueminot retains a special place in the annals of perfumery history, remembered fondly by enthusiasts and collectors alike for its exquisite scent and elegant presentation.
Though the perfume may no longer be readily available, its spirit lives on in the hearts of those who were fortunate enough to experience its enchanting aroma. In the world of fragrance, even discontinued scents continue to exert their influence, inspiring new creations and perpetuating a legacy of beauty and sophistication.
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