Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

 Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, arrived during a fascinating period characterized by dramatic shifts in art, culture, and society. The early 20th century, especially in the years leading up to World War I, was a time of innovation and change. The Art Nouveau movement was flourishing, influencing everything from architecture and jewelry to the design of everyday objects. This era saw a fascination with the exotic and the ancient, as Western society was increasingly enchanted by the mystique of past civilizations.

When François Coty marketed Ambre Antique, he tapped into the romanticism and fascination with ancient cultures, particularly that of Ancient Egypt. His claim that Ambre Antique was the perfume of "ancient Egypt and gilded queens" was not just a marketing strategy but a reflection of the era's broader cultural zeitgeist. This was a time when the discovery of Egyptian artifacts, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, captivated the world, although Coty's launch predates this discovery. Nonetheless, there was already a significant interest in Egyptology and the grandeur of ancient empires. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens." 

Ambergris, one of the key ingredients in Ambre Antique, has been treasured for centuries. This substance, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, was highly valued for its unique fragrance and rarity. In ancient times, and particularly in Ancient Egypt, ambergris was considered precious and was often used in perfumes and incense. Its scent was associated with luxury and divinity.

In Ancient Egypt, scents and perfumes held significant cultural and spiritual importance. Perfumes were not merely used for their pleasing aromas; they were integral to religious rituals, embalming processes, and personal grooming. Ambergris, with its musky and sweet smell, was highly prized. It was believed to have both physical and metaphysical properties, often used in ceremonies to honor the gods and in preparations for the afterlife.

A'Suma by Coty c1934

Transport yourself to France in the year 1934, a time when the world was still reeling from the aftermath of the First World War and on the brink of another global conflict. In this era, the Western world held a fascination with exotic locales in the Far East, such as Bali and Japan. These places were often seen through a romanticized lens, imbued with notions of mystery, sensuality, and adventure.

In the collective imagination of the Western populace, Bali was depicted as a paradisiacal island shrouded in the allure of the unknown. It was envisioned as a land of lush tropical landscapes, pristine beaches, and enchanting cultural traditions. Bali symbolized a retreat from the constraints of Western civilization, a place where one could indulge in exotic pleasures and escape the mundane realities of everyday life.

Japan, on the other hand, evoked images of ancient traditions, refined aesthetics, and enigmatic beauty. It was viewed as a land of contrasts, where modernity coexisted with timeless customs. The allure of Japan lay in its mystique, its rich history, and its ability to captivate the imagination with its blend of tradition and innovation.

 

Against this backdrop of fascination with the Far East, A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise" made its debut in France. Conjured up by the creative minds of François Coty and Vincent Roubert, this sensuous perfume transported its wearers to a moonlit tropical beach in Bali, evoking the intoxicating ambiance of this exotic locale. With its blend of aromatic notes and evocative imagery, A'Suma captured the essence of the Far East and allowed its users to experience a fleeting moment of escapism and indulgence.

L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Emeraude by Coty c1918

Emeraude by Coty, launched in 1918 and crafted by the visionary perfumer François Coty, is a fragrance steeped in historical significance and cultural reverence. Pronounced "EM-AIR-ODE," the name itself, meaning "emerald" in French, hints at the rich narrative that inspired its creation.

In the early 20th century, François Coty was captivated by the ancient Persian culture, particularly their veneration of the emerald. The Persians, renowned for their sophisticated civilization and deep appreciation for the arts and sciences, held emeralds in high esteem. These precious stones were not merely ornamental but were believed to possess profound mystical powers. They were often housed in temples, symbolizing divine protection and happiness.

Against the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by turmoil and longing for beauty and stability, Coty sought to infuse his creations with a sense of wonder and escapism. His fascination with Persian legends and the emerald's reputed ability to bring divine happiness provided the perfect muse.

The post-war era, characterized by a yearning for peace and a return to elegance, found a perfect expression in Emeraude. Coty's goal was ambitious: to encapsulate the allure and mystique of the emerald, transforming its essence into a sensory experience. Emeraude was more than a fragrance; it was an olfactory representation of the emerald's soul, designed to evoke the same reverence and enchantment that the Persians felt towards their treasured jewels.

 

Launched during a time when modern perfumery was beginning to blossom, Emeraude stood out with its complex blend, balancing citrus top notes with a warm, spicy heart and a sensual, woody base. This composition was groundbreaking, setting a new standard for luxury fragrances. It invited wearers to embark on a journey through time and space, connecting them to the ancient Persian mystique while offering a modern sense of luxury and sophistication.

In essence, Emeraude by Coty is not just a perfume; it is a narrative encapsulated in a bottle, bridging the historical reverence of Persian culture with the early 20th century's desire for beauty and serenity amidst chaos. François Coty's creation remains a testament to the timeless allure of the emerald and the enduring power of storytelling in perfumery.

Briar Flacons

Lalique designed flacon, made by Coty's own glassworks, featuring frosted "briar" motif stopper. Information from a 1932 Coty catalog, complete with original retail prices. Starting with the lowest price perfumes to the most expensive perfumes.

Toilette Water
Eau de Toilette in Embossed Box

• No. 08 - In Decorated Boxes, 105ml...retail $3.25
• No. 09 - In Decorated Boxes, 210ml...retail $6.25
• No. 10 - Corrugated Boxes, 425ml...retail $11.00
• No. 11 - Corrugated Boxes, 750ml...retail $21.00

In the following odors:

• Lilas Blanc
• Heliotrope
• Violette
• Jacinthe

Toilette Water
Eau de Toilette in Embossed Box

• No. 08 - In Decorated Boxes, 105ml...retail $4.00
• No. 09 - In Decorated Boxes, 210ml...retail $7.00
• No. 10 - Corrugated Boxes, 425ml...retail $13.00
• No. 11 - Corrugated Boxes, 750ml...retail $25.00

In the following odors:

• L’Origan
• L’Aimant
• Chypre
• Violette Pourpre
• La Rose Jacqueminot
• Iris
• Ambreine
• L’Oeillet France
• Cyclamen
• Lilas Pourpre
• L’Or
• Paris
• Emeraude
• La Jacee
• Muguet

Toilette Water
Eau de Toilette in Embossed Box

• No. 08 - In Decorated Boxes, 105ml...retail $4.25
• No. 09 - In Decorated Boxes, 210ml...retail $7.25
• No. 10 - Corrugated Boxes, 425ml...retail $14.00
• No. 11 - Corrugated Boxes, 750ml...retail $27.00

In the following odors:

• Jasmin de Corse
• L’Effleurt
• L’Ambre Antique
• Styx

Heliotrope by Coty c1910

The debut of Heliotrope by Coty in 1910 coincided with a fascinating era in history, particularly concerning women's fashion and fragrance preferences. This period marked the tail end of the Edwardian era, characterized by opulent and ornate fashion, while also witnessing a transition towards more practical and liberating styles that would define the 1920s. Influences from the Art Nouveau movement were evident, introducing more fluid and feminine designs to the fashion landscape.

During this time, women's fashion was marked by high collars, long skirts, and corseted waists, reflecting the elegance and formality of the era. Perfumes of the early 20th century were often complex and rich, with floral notes dominating. Heliotrope, named after the fragrant heliotrope flower, likely boasted a blend of violet, vanilla, almond, and heliotrope itself, creating a sweet and powdery fragrance. Women preferred perfumes that complemented their attire, projecting an image of sophistication and refinement.