Heliotrope by Coty c1910

The debut of Heliotrope by Coty in 1910 coincided with a fascinating era in history, particularly concerning women's fashion and fragrance preferences. This period marked the tail end of the Edwardian era, characterized by opulent and ornate fashion, while also witnessing a transition towards more practical and liberating styles that would define the 1920s. Influences from the Art Nouveau movement were evident, introducing more fluid and feminine designs to the fashion landscape.

During this time, women's fashion was marked by high collars, long skirts, and corseted waists, reflecting the elegance and formality of the era. Perfumes of the early 20th century were often complex and rich, with floral notes dominating. Heliotrope, named after the fragrant heliotrope flower, likely boasted a blend of violet, vanilla, almond, and heliotrope itself, creating a sweet and powdery fragrance. Women preferred perfumes that complemented their attire, projecting an image of sophistication and refinement. 

The early 20th century was marked by various artistic movements, such as Art Nouveau and the emergence of Art Deco, influencing not only fashion but also perfume packaging and marketing. Coty Inc., founded by François Coty, played a significant role in revolutionizing the perfume industry during this period. Coty introduced innovative packaging, marketing techniques, and high-quality scents at affordable prices, making perfumes more accessible to the masses. Heliotrope by Coty likely resonated with women seeking sophistication and elegance, aligning with Coty's reputation for delivering desirable fragrances.

In essence, the launch of Heliotrope by Coty in 1910 occurred amidst a period of transition and cultural evolution in both women's fashion and perfume preferences. The fragrance encapsulated the spirit of the time, offering a sophisticated blend of floral notes that complemented the elegant yet evolving styles of the early 20th century. As women sought empowerment and self-expression, perfume became a symbol of femininity and refinement, with Coty at the forefront of delivering desirable fragrances to meet these evolving tastes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like? Reminiscent of vanilla, the heliotrope’s scent gave rise to its common name used years ago: the cherry-pie plant. The perfume is spicy but delicate.

• Top notes: cassie, orange blossom, almond, bergamot, anise, neroli
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, heliotrope, rose absolute, tuberose, jasmine, orris
• Base notes: benzoin, musk, vanilla, ambergris, styrax, vetiver, tonka bean, civet

Scent Profile:

As you inhale the fragrance of Heliotrope by Coty, you're immediately greeted by the tantalizing top notes that dance delicately upon the air. The scent of cassie, a flower reminiscent of mimosa, offers a subtle sweetness, evoking images of sunlit meadows in full bloom. Mingling with this floral note is the citrusy brightness of orange blossom, its zesty aroma adding a refreshing twist to the composition. Almond undertones lend a comforting warmth, reminiscent of freshly baked treats, while the essence of bergamot infuses a subtle hint of Earl Grey tea, adding a sophisticated touch to the olfactory experience.

Moving deeper into the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a bouquet of captivating middle notes that exude both richness and delicacy. Heliotrope takes center stage, its aroma reminiscent of vanilla with a subtle hint of cherry, evoking memories of indulgent cherry pies cooling on windowsills. Ylang ylang lends a creamy floral sweetness, while the intoxicating scent of rose and tuberose adds depth and complexity. Jasmine contributes its heady floral fragrance, infusing the composition with a seductive allure, while orris root offers a powdery, violet-like aroma that adds a touch of vintage elegance to the blend.

As the fragrance settles on your skin, the base notes emerge, grounding the composition with their lingering warmth and sensuality. Benzoin lends a resinous sweetness, reminiscent of vanilla with hints of caramel and spice, while musk adds a soft, animalic undertone that enhances the perfume's allure. Ambergris imparts a subtle oceanic quality, evoking images of sun-drenched shores and sea breezes. Styrax contributes a balsamic richness, while vetiver offers a woody, earthy nuance that adds depth and complexity. Tonka bean adds a touch of sweetness with its creamy, almond-like aroma, while civet provides a hint of animalic muskiness, adding an intriguing sensuality to the fragrance.

Overall, Heliotrope by Coty is a captivating blend of floral, spicy, and sweet notes, evoking a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication. Each ingredient contributes to the olfactory tapestry, creating a fragrance that is both alluring and unforgettable, perfectly capturing the essence of the early 20th century's penchant for opulence and refinement.

The Lone Hand, 1913:

"The subtle fragrance of heliotrope, Queen Alexandra's favorite scent, is concentrated in the perfume that bears the name of Coty."

A 1926 ad reads:

"HELIOTROPE - rich with soft intoxicating sweetness that winds itself into the senses, tender caressing power."

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Heliotrope by Coty: Spicy and delicate. For Redheads."

Bottles:

A 1910 ad reads:

"Coty's Rose Jacqueminot Extract in paper carton 2 ounce  for $4.50. Coty's Chypre, Peau d'Espagne, Violette, Heliotrope, Lilas Blanc, each in paper carton 2 ounce"

The initial bottles used for Heliotrope's Parfum (Extrait) were crafted by renowned glassmakers René Lalique and Baccarat, reflecting Coty's commitment to luxury and quality. These bottles, adorned with intricate designs and made with exquisite materials, added to the allure of the fragrance. However, their high cost proved unsustainable for Coty, prompting him to seek alternative solutions.  

In response, Coty adapted the designs and established his own glassworks in France to produce more cost-effective bottles. These bottles bore the marking "Coty France" on the base, signaling a shift towards in-house production and a commitment to maintaining quality while reducing expenses.

These bottles, whether crafted by Lalique, Baccarat, or Coty's own glassworks, represented more than mere containers for fragrance; they were works of art that elevated the experience of using Heliotrope to a luxurious and indulgent affair.

Rene Lalique Heliotrope Flacon:

The "Heliotrope" flacon, also known as "Coty Perfume No. 14" was first made by Rene Lalique in 1911 for the Coty perfume Heliotrope. It is roughly a triangular shape with canted corners along the bottom. The bottle was used for various Coty fragrances: Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Styx, Chypre, Muguet, Jacinthe, Jasmin de Corse, La Rose Jacqueminot, and Paris.

Baccarat Model #225:

In 1913, Baccarat once again collaborated with Coty to create a stunning flacon for La Rose Jacqueminot. Model number 225, this bottle was a true masterpiece of craftsmanship. Its tall square shape exuded elegance, while the round cut crystal lapidary stopper, with its slightly pointed top, added a touch of grandeur. Coty often employed this elegant design for several of their fragrances, showcasing the versatility and timeless appeal of the bottle. This flacon is a rare find, coveted by collectors for its beauty and rarity. Finding one in pristine condition, especially with an undamaged stopper, is a testament to its value as a showpiece in any collection.

Cylindrical Frosted Stopper Bottles:

Starting as early as 1923, a novel style of bottle emerged, seemingly tailored for perfumes like Chypre, L'Origan, Paris, Lilas Blanc, Iris, Heliotrope, Violette Pourpre, and L'Effleurt. These bottles sported a cylindrical shape and were complemented by the familiar frosted stopper. Interestingly, two variations of stoppers have been identified, as depicted in the accompanying photos.

It's important not to be misled by assertions that this design is associated with Lalique or Lalique-designed bottles. Contrary to such claims, Lalique played no part in its creation. Despite mistaken attributions to both Lalique and Baccarat, this bottle does not feature in the catalogs of either company, nor was it part of their molds. Instead, it was manufactured by Coty's own glassworks in France, identifiable by the acid stamp "Coty France" on its base.

These bottles have been discovered in various sizes, including heights of 2.5 inches, 3 inches (for the 0.80 oz variant), 3.25 inches, and 3.75 inches.

Notably, several different boxes were utilized for packaging. One such box, rectangular and covered in paper, bears the inscription: "The bottle, label, and box of this item have been registered in accordance with the law and are the property of Coty. This specialty and its accessories were created by Coty in factories at the Cite des Parfums in Suresnes, near Paris (France). Our products are the exclusive property of Coty Incorporated for the United States of America, where they are manufactured. Counterfeits will be rigorously pursued. All our specialties are sold under the Coty name without any first name." This inscription serves as a testament to Coty's commitment to authenticity and protection of their brand.

In addition to the cylindrical stopper, a flattened variant adorned with molded floral details and frosted to enhance its beauty can be found with this particular bottle, crafted by Baccarat. This alternative stopper design not only adds further diversity to the presentation of the fragrance but also offers collectors and enthusiasts a unique variation to appreciate, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail synonymous with Baccarat's renowned glasswork.

The photo below shows the Baccarat bottle in the Roseraie Package. In 1927, Coty unveiled an elegant new packaging design, elevating the presentation of their fragrances. The bottle was now encased in a box adorned with a brown suede-like effect, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall presentation. At the forefront of the package, a small dotted circle featuring the inscription "Coty Paris" was prominently displayed, embellished with fanciful ribbons that added a whimsical charm.

This revamped presentation was utilized for several of Coty's esteemed perfumes, including Heliotrope, Emeraude, L'Origan, Paris, and Chypre, enhancing their allure and desirability. However, there were discrepancies in newspaper advertisements regarding the actual volume held by the bottle, with quantities ranging from 1 1/3 oz to 1 3/4 oz and 1 1/2 oz being noted. It's worth noting that errors in advertisements were common during this era, leading to inconsistencies in product descriptions.

Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:

The bottle features an embossed band along its upper part and a frosted glass stopper adorned with molded flowers and ridge details. Despite claims by some sellers, this design is not associated with Lalique or Lalique-designed bottles. Lalique's involvement in its creation is non-existent. Though often mistakenly attributed to Lalique or Baccarat, this bottle does not appear in the catalogs of either company, nor was it part of their molds. Instead, it was produced by Coty's own glassworks in France.

To verify its authenticity, look for two examples of Coty marks molded into the base of the bottles. These marks serve as clear indicators of their origin and distinguish them from falsely attributed pieces.

The parfum bottle for Heliotrope was offered in three sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz, catering to various preferences and needs. However, production of these bottles ceased in 1932. Additionally, the smallest size, the 1/4 oz bottle, was discontinued two years later, in 1934. Each size of the bottle had distinct dimensions:

• The 1/4 oz bottle stood at 2.25 inches tall.
• The 1/2 oz bottle was slightly taller at 2.75 inches.
• The largest size, the 1 oz bottle, measured 3.75 inches in height.

Moreover, larger versions of these bottles were crafted for the boudoir, standing at 6 inches, 7.25 inches, and 8 inches tall, specifically designed to hold Eau de Toilette. These larger bottles were not exclusive to Heliotrope but were also used for other Coty perfumes such as Eau de Coty, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Aimant. One such example is the 3 oz bottle, which offered a more substantial supply of fragrance for enthusiasts.

Yellow Mimosa Packaging:

In 1935, Coty introduced a series of limited edition packaging ensembles featuring vibrant mimosa prints set against yellow backgrounds, adding a touch of seasonal charm to their floral parfums. This collection, possibly named Feuilles d'Automne (Autumn Leaves), included an array of fragrances such as Muguet, Oeillet France, La Rose Jacqueminot, Heliotrope, Ambre Antique, Lilas Pourpre, and Violette Pourpre. Over time, additional Coty perfumes, including Emeraude, Iris, L'Aimant, and L'Origan, were incorporated into this distinctive packaging design, expanding its appeal to a broader range of fragrances within the Coty collection.

c1930s bottle. Photo by ruby lane seller Classy Glass Antiques & Collectables

Fate of the Fragrance:

The specific discontinuation date of the fragrance remains unknown; however, records indicate that it was still available for purchase during the 1940s. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Heliotrope remained a beloved scent well into the mid-20th century, continuing to captivate fragrance enthusiasts with its timeless appeal and alluring aroma.