Iris by Coty c1913

In 1913, the world was in a state of flux. The early 20th century was marked by rapid industrialization, shifting social norms, and geopolitical tensions that would eventually culminate in World War I. This period was also characterized by an appreciation for art, culture, and luxury, especially among the upper classes.

Coty's launch of the perfume "Iris" in 1913 came at a time when perfumes were considered essential accessories for both men and women of refined taste. Coty, a French perfumer, was renowned for revolutionizing the perfume industry with his innovative scents and elegant packaging. "Iris" was no exception, as it encapsulated the essence of its namesake flower in a delicate and alluring fragrance.

The iris flower, known for its striking beauty and symbolism, held a special significance in the language of flowers during this time. Each flower was thought to convey a specific message or sentiment, allowing people to communicate subtly through floral arrangements and gifts. The iris, with its intricate petals and vibrant colors, was often associated with sentiments of wisdom, faith, hope, and valor.

When Coty launched the perfume "Iris," it would have evoked these symbolic associations, appealing to individuals who appreciated not only the olfactory experience but also the deeper meanings behind the fragrance. The perfume likely captured the essence of the iris flower, with its elegant and sophisticated blend of floral notes, creating an aura of refinement and allure.

In the social context of 1913, perfumes played a significant role in personal grooming and self-expression, especially among the elite. Wearing a luxurious fragrance like "Iris" by Coty would have been a statement of one's taste, refinement, and status. It would have been favored by fashionable men and women who sought to enhance their allure and leave a lasting impression.

Overall, the launch of "Iris" by Coty in 1913 occurred against a backdrop of cultural sophistication, social change, and appreciation for luxury. It represented an exquisite olfactory experience that appealed to individuals who valued both the aesthetic and symbolic qualities of fragrance, particularly those embodied by the elegant iris flower.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral, "bud vase" perfume with a typical iris concrete note made from orris, with a hint of spice, and an animalic jasmine-indole undertone.

• Top notes: neroli, cassie, aldehydes, bergamot
• Middle notes: violet, orris, rose, ylang ylang, jasmine, spices
• Base notes: lignum aloe, ambergris, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, irisone, ionone, heliotropin

Scent Profile:

During the early part of the 20th century, iris perfumes typically featured a carefully curated blend of ingredients to capture the delicate and elegant essence of the iris flower. Based on other iris based perfumes of the period, I believe the composition would look something like this:

As you inhale the perfume, the top notes of neroli, cassie, aldehydes, and bergamot dance lightly upon your senses, creating a bright and uplifting opening reminiscent of a sunny morning in a blooming garden. The neroli adds a citrusy freshness, while the cassie lends a soft, powdery sweetness, complemented by the sparkling aldehydes that give the fragrance a touch of effervescence. The bergamot contributes its characteristic tangy aroma, enhancing the overall brightness of the scent.

As the fragrance settles, you begin to detect the heart notes unfolding gracefully. Violet, with its delicate floralcy, mingles with the rich and earthy orris, creating a central accord that is both powdery and slightly woody. The rose adds a romantic and timeless elegance, while ylang ylang brings a creamy sweetness to the composition. Jasmine, with its heady and intoxicating aroma, adds a sensual depth, while the spices lend a subtle warmth and complexity to the blend.

Finally, as the perfume lingers on your skin, the base notes emerge, anchoring the fragrance with a sense of depth and sophistication. Lignum aloe, with its resinous and woody scent, adds a touch of mystery, while ambergris provides a soft, musky warmth. Musk lends a sensual and animalic quality, enhancing the overall allure of the scent. Vetiver and sandalwood contribute their earthy and woody nuances, while oakmoss adds a hint of greenness and depth. The irisone and ionone, derived from orris, intensify the iris concrete note, enveloping you in its elegant and powdery embrace. Heliotropin lends a subtle almond-like sweetness, completing the composition with a soft and comforting warmth.

As you breathe in the fragrance, you are transported to a bygone era of elegance and refinement, where each note intertwines seamlessly to create a timeless and captivating olfactory experience.

A Personal Perfume:

In the 1920s and 1930s, choosing a perfume was not merely about finding a pleasant scent; it was a reflection of one's identity and personality. Perfume companies capitalized on this by associating certain fragrances with specific physical attributes, such as hair color, or with personality traits. These marketing strategies helped guide consumers in their perfume selection, whether they were purchasing for themselves or as gifts for others.

For blondes, who were often associated with a light and ethereal beauty, perfumes like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or were recommended. These fragrances tended to be delicate and feminine, mirroring the perceived characteristics of blonde women.

Brunettes, on the other hand, were often depicted as sultry and mysterious, so heavier, more Oriental perfumes like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, and Styx were suggested. These scents exuded warmth and sensuality, complementing the perceived allure of brunettes.

Red-haired women were often seen as fiery and passionate, so fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen were recommended. These perfumes were chosen to match the perceived intensity and vibrancy of red hair.

Alternatively, some perfumers encouraged women to choose fragrances based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical attributes. For those of a sunny and joyous disposition, scents like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were suggested, evoking feelings of happiness and lightness.

For the dreamy and elusive types, fragrances such as Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc were recommended, offering a sense of whimsy and escapism.

Exotic personalities were directed towards fragrances like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, which promised an air of mystery and allure.

For those with a brilliant and sophisticated temperament, perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were deemed suitable, embodying elegance and refinement.

Ultimately, these marketing techniques helped consumers navigate the wide array of perfumes available, guiding them towards scents that not only smelled pleasing but also resonated with their sense of self and identity. Whether based on physical attributes or personality traits, the goal was to find a perfume that would not only complement one's appearance but also enhance their overall aura and charm.

A 1925 ad reads:

"For Red-Haired Women: Ambre Antique, Iris & Cyclamen."

A 1926 ad reads:

"IRIS - gentleness and ecstatic melancholy, whispering of lost and lovely dreams, of vague longings for far-away things."

A 1927 ad reads:

"IN THE COTY PERFUME. L'ORIGAN, PARIS,CHYPRE, STYX, EMERAUDE, LA ROSE JACQUEMINOT, L'OR, MUGUET, IRIS, LA JACINTHE, L JASMIN DE CORSE, AMBRE ANTIQUE, CYCLAMEN, HELIOTROPE, VIOLETTE, LILAS BLANC.."

A 1935 ad reads:

"Heliotrope, Violette Pourpre,La Jacee, La Rose Jacqueminot, Lilas Pourpre, Iris, L'Oeillet France, Muguet .Did You Hear the Coty Announcement on the Radio..?"

Bottle:

Iris, photo by June Jack

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.