Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Coty in any way, it is only a reference page for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by.

The main objective of this website is to chronicle the history of the Coty fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years.

However, one of the other goals of this website is to show the present owners of the Coty perfume company how much we miss the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances!

Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Coty brand might see it.

Also, this website is a labor of love, it is a work in progress and is always being updated with new information as I can find it, so check back often!

Thursday, April 16, 2015

Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

 Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, arrived during a fascinating period characterized by dramatic shifts in art, culture, and society. The early 20th century, especially in the years leading up to World War I, was a time of innovation and change. The Art Nouveau movement was flourishing, influencing everything from architecture and jewelry to the design of everyday objects. This era saw a fascination with the exotic and the ancient, as Western society was increasingly enchanted by the mystique of past civilizations.

When François Coty marketed Ambre Antique, he tapped into the romanticism and fascination with ancient cultures, particularly that of Ancient Egypt. His claim that Ambre Antique was the perfume of "ancient Egypt and gilded queens" was not just a marketing strategy but a reflection of the era's broader cultural zeitgeist. This was a time when the discovery of Egyptian artifacts, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, captivated the world, although Coty's launch predates this discovery. Nonetheless, there was already a significant interest in Egyptology and the grandeur of ancient empires. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens." 
Ambergris, one of the key ingredients in Ambre Antique, has been treasured for centuries. This substance, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, was highly valued for its unique fragrance and rarity. In ancient times, and particularly in Ancient Egypt, ambergris was considered precious and was often used in perfumes and incense. Its scent was associated with luxury and divinity.

In Ancient Egypt, scents and perfumes held significant cultural and spiritual importance. Perfumes were not merely used for their pleasing aromas; they were integral to religious rituals, embalming processes, and personal grooming. Ambergris, with its musky and sweet smell, was highly prized. It was believed to have both physical and metaphysical properties, often used in ceremonies to honor the gods and in preparations for the afterlife.
Coty's introduction of Ambre Antique during this time period leveraged the allure of ancient luxury and the romanticism of historical opulence. By invoking the imagery of "gilded queens" and ancient rituals, Coty effectively positioned his perfume as not just a fragrance but an experience steeped in history and grandeur. This appeal to the exotic and the timeless would have resonated strongly with early 20th-century consumers, who were eager to embrace products that offered a connection to the past and an aura of sophistication.

In summary, the launch of Ambre Antique by Coty in 1905 can be seen as a reflection of the era's fascination with ancient cultures, particularly Egypt. The use of ambergris in the perfume tied it to a tradition of luxury and mystique, appealing to contemporary tastes for exotic and historical richness. This cultural backdrop, combined with the artistry of the time, made Ambre Antique a symbol of opulence and timeless beauty.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as an sweet amber oriental fragrance for women. It was directly inspired by Jicky by Guerlain from 1889.
  • Top notes: almond, geranium, clary sage oil, lemon, basil, bergamot, cinnamon, carnation and neroli
  • Middle notes: pepper, tuberose, coriander, thyme, rosemary, rose absolute, heliotropin, jasmine, incense, labdanum, olibanum, opoponax, orris concrete, ionone
  • Base notes: coumarin, tonka bean, myrrh, vetiver, rosewood, resins, Mysore sandalwood, Indian musk, Amber 83, ambreine, ambergris, patchouli, Tibetan civet, vanillin, and Mexican vanilla
 

Ambre Antique made use of two Firmenich bases: Iralia and Dianthine. Iralia lends a sweet, floral woody note, while Dianthine suggests a spicy carnation bouquet.

Harper's Bazaar, 1916:
"One may rise to the supreme heights of luxury and possess the hand carved masterpiece of the famous Lalique the intaglio bottle which holds the Styx of Coty at seventy five dollars another gem is Ambre Antique at twenty five dollars and seventy five cents."

Advertising Copy, 1936:
"As exquisite gifts, they convey a tribute to loveliness as delicately as a bouquet of flowers, but of unfading fragrance— constantly renewing the charm of a rare and understanding compliment. AMBRE ANTIQUE-fragrance of ancient Egypt— for the woman of enigmatic allure, incomprehensible, aloof."

The New Yorker, 1937:
"Consult Coty, the magnificent, for amber (Ambre Antique), as usual, and for unadulterated chypre."


Exploration of the Ambreine Accord:


The ambreine accord, used by François Coty in the creation of L'Ambreine and later in L'Ambre Antique, is a complex, multi-layered blend of ingredients that evoke the warm, rich, and sensual qualities of amber while incorporating fresh, floral, and animalic notes. Each component of the ambreine accord contributes distinct characteristics that shape its overall scent.

Starting with bergamot, the top note of the ambreine accord, it adds a fresh, citrusy brightness to the blend. Bergamot's zesty, slightly floral aroma gives the composition a lively opening, cutting through the heavier, deeper notes and providing a clean, uplifting contrast. This burst of freshness softens the more intense ingredients that follow, ensuring the fragrance remains balanced.

Vanillin (or ethyl vanillin), a synthetic compound derived from vanilla, is a key component in creating the comforting, sweet warmth that amber fragrances are known for. The creamy, sugary scent of vanillin adds a soft, rich sweetness that envelops the wearer in a cozy, almost gourmand embrace. This sweetness also contributes a roundness to the composition, blending beautifully with the other notes while ensuring the fragrance feels smooth and comforting rather than harsh or overly floral.

Coumarin, a compound with a sweet, hay-like aroma, provides a powdery, slightly herbal aspect to the ambreine accord. Its dry, warm scent evokes the feeling of a sun-drenched meadow or a well-worn leather chair. Coumarin’s inclusion deepens the fragrance, adding a soft, dry, and almost balsamic character that ties together the more ethereal and floral notes of the composition.

The inclusion of civet adds a distinctly animalic, musky quality to the blend. Known for its deep, rich, and slightly fecal scent, civet introduces an earthy, sensual, and almost erotic dimension to the fragrance. It heightens the animalistic qualities of the perfume, bringing depth and complexity to the amber base. This note grounds the other lighter, fresher ingredients, making the fragrance feel more intimate and primal.

Moving into the base of the accord, patchouli offers a rich, earthy, and slightly spicy aroma. Patchouli’s dense, woody scent adds an additional layer of depth, contributing a grounding element to the fragrance while enhancing the resinous qualities of amber. Its dark, musky character helps to create a sense of richness and weight, balancing the freshness of bergamot and the sweetness of vanillin.

Sandalwood, another woodsy note, brings a smooth, creamy, and slightly milky quality to the base of the ambreine accord. Sandalwood’s soft, sweet, and slightly balsamic fragrance acts as a bridge between the earthiness of patchouli and the sensual animalic notes, creating a seamless transition between the heavier and lighter aspects of the composition.

Rose adds a delicate floral touch to the accord, providing a soft, romantic contrast to the richer, more intense notes. The floral notes of rose lend an air of refinement and elegance, tempering the musk and wood with a fleeting sweetness that balances the overall warmth of the perfume.

Labdanum, a resin extracted from the rockrose plant, contributes a warm, resinous, and slightly leathery scent to the ambreine accord. Labdanum is a key ingredient in many amber fragrances, known for its rich, balsamic qualities that evoke the feeling of deep, golden warmth. Its presence enhances the amber-like nature of the composition, deepening the fragrance and adding a touch of mystery.

Vetiveryl acetate offers a fresh, woody, and slightly green note with an earthy, smoky undertone. This addition brings a crisp, clean dimension to the base of the perfume, balancing the richness of the other notes while providing an element of complexity that adds to the overall sophistication of the fragrance.

Heliotropin, known for its sweet, powdery scent, introduces a soft, almost almond-like sweetness to the accord. It lends a comforting, slightly floral aspect to the perfume, enhancing the powdery, sweet facets of vanillin and coumarin while complementing the warmth of the other base notes.

Finally, nitromusks, a group of synthetic musks, bring a clean, soft, and powdery undertone to the fragrance. These musks add a modern, almost soapy freshness that helps to soften the animalic notes of civet and enhance the overall smoothness of the perfume, providing a subtle but essential lift to the deep, warm composition.

Together, these components create an ambreine accord that is rich, warm, and multifaceted—blending citrusy freshness with deep, sensual woods, sweet florals, and animalic warmth. The resulting fragrance is both luxurious and mysterious, offering an elegant yet intimate scent that evokes the deep golden hues of amber while maintaining a delicate balance of complexity and refinement.

Scent Profile:


As you inhale the top notes of bergamot, carnation, and neroli, you're transported to the courts of ancient queens, where citrusy bergamot dances in the air, mingling with the spicy warmth of carnation and the delicate floral sweetness of neroli. These scents evoke the luxurious surroundings of regal chambers adorned with vibrant blooms, where queens held court and orchestrated their realms with grace and power.

Moving to the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a rich bouquet of rose, heliotrope, jasmine, and a medley of resinous elements like incense, labdanum, olibanum, and opoponax. Each note unfolds like layers of silk, revealing the opulent tapestry of a queen's attire, infused with the essence of precious flowers and sacred resins. It's a symphony of aromas that speaks of reverence and adoration, embodying the divine feminine spirit revered by ancient civilizations.

As the scent settles into its base, the regal ambiance intensifies with the lingering presence of sandalwood, Indian musk, and the crown jewel of perfumery: ambergris. Here, amidst the earthy depth of patchouli and the exotic allure of Tibetan civet, ambergris reigns supreme, exuding a rare and mysterious allure reminiscent of the treasures coveted by queens of old. Its musky, marine aroma whispers of distant shores and untold riches, casting a spell of enchantment that lingers long after the queen has departed.

And finally, like the sweetest indulgence fit for royalty, Mexican vanilla emerges, adding a decadent sweetness to the composition. It's a tribute to the queens who savored life's pleasures, indulging in the finest luxuries the world had to offer. As you breathe in this olfactory masterpiece, you're enveloped in the timeless allure of ancient queens, their legacy of elegance and sophistication immortalized in every intoxicating note of this majestic fragrance.


Personal Perfumes:

 

During the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies commonly propagated the notion that a woman's complexion or hair color should determine her choice of fragrance. This marketing strategy suggested that blondes were best suited to lighter scents, while brunettes were recommended heavier Oriental perfumes. For blondes, options included Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. Brunettes, on the other hand, were directed towards scents like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were advised to opt for fragrances such as Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen. 

However, alternative marketing strategies also emerged, emphasizing perfume choices based on personality or mood rather than physical attributes. These techniques proved successful, resulting in the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, particularly by those seeking gifts or unsure about their fragrance preferences. Options ranged from scents suited for sunny and joyous personalities like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette, to those for dreamy and elusive types, such as Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc. Exotic types were recommended scents like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, while mysterious personalities were steered towards fragrances like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen. Lastly, for those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, choices included Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan.


Product List:



The availability of Ambre Antique in various forms reflects Coty's commitment to providing options for different preferences and occasions, catering to a diverse clientele with discerning tastes.

The Parfum extrait, or perfume extract, offered the most concentrated form of the fragrance, ideal for those who desired a long-lasting and intense scent experience. Its potency allowed for a lingering trail of the rich ambergris notes, enveloping the wearer in a veil of opulence and allure.

The toilet water, a term synonymous with Eau de Toilette in modern perfumery, provided a lighter rendition of Ambre Antique, suitable for everyday wear and warmer climates. This formulation retained the essence of the original fragrance while offering a more refreshing and invigorating experience.

The cologne version of Ambre Antique likely featured a lower concentration of aromatic compounds, delivering a subtle yet distinctive scent that was perfect for casual settings and daytime use. Its lighter nature made it a versatile option for those seeking a hint of sophistication without overwhelming presence.

Lastly, the talc offered a luxurious way to indulge in the fragrance beyond traditional liquid formulations. Applied to the body after bathing or as a finishing touch to dressing, the talc imparted a delicate scent while leaving the skin feeling soft and velvety.

With its diverse product range, Ambre Antique catered to individuals seeking different levels of fragrance intensity and application methods, ensuring that everyone could experience the enchanting allure of this legendary perfume in a manner that suited their preferences and lifestyle.


Bottles:


In 1910, Coty commissioned his close friend René Lalique to craft an exquisite flacon to contain the precious Ambre Antique perfume. Lalique, renowned for his mastery in glasswork, delivered a stunning creation worthy of the fragrance it held. The resulting flacon, crafted from frosted glass, was adorned with intricately molded Grecian maidens, each figure radiating an aura of timeless elegance and grace. Standing at a height of 6 inches, this bottle became a coveted piece for collectors and connoisseurs alike, symbolizing the epitome of luxury and sophistication.

The meticulous craftsmanship of Lalique is evident in the intricate details of the flacon. Each maiden, though subtly different from the next, shares a reddish-brown patina that accentuates the motif delicately etched into the fine, frosted glass. This bas-relief design adds depth and texture to the surface, capturing the essence of classical beauty and refinement. As light dances upon the surface of the flacon, the Grecian maidens seem to come to life, their graceful forms inviting admiration and reverence.



Beyond its function as a vessel for fragrance, the Lalique flacon transcends mere utility, becoming a work of art in its own right. It serves as a testament to the enduring partnership between Coty and Lalique, two visionaries who understood the power of scent and beauty to elevate the human experience. With its timeless allure and impeccable craftsmanship, this flacon continues to captivate admirers, embodying the spirit of luxury and sophistication that defines the Ambre Antique perfume and the era in which it flourished.




Briar Stopper Flacon:

Rene Lalique designed this flacon in 1911, and it was later made by Coty's own glassworks after 1920. The clear glass bottle is tall, with a square base, and features a frosted glass stopper molded with the "briar" motif. The bottle was originally made to house the various Eau de Toilettes, but the design was later adapted to include different sizes including a miniature versions to house parfum. The miniature size is dubbed "Petite Modele" and debuted in 1936 and held 0.27 oz.

In the 1920s, the boxes had messages inside reminding the owners of the bottles that "These exquisite crystal flacons are hand-cut in the Paris ateliers of COTY - Care must be taken in placing them on the dressing table to avoid breakage of the corners."






Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:

The bottle has an embossed band along the upper part and a frosted glass stopper molded with flowers and ridge details. People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France. The parfum bottle was available in three sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz. The bottles were discontinued in 1932. The 1/4 oz bottle itself was discontinued in 1934.








Yellow Mimosa Print Packaging:

In 1935, the Coty floral parfums were packaged in new limited edition ensembles featuring mimosa prints on yellow backgrounds. The following perfumes were included: Muguet, Oeillet France, La Rose Jacqueminot, Ambre Antique, Lilas Pourpre, and Violette Pourpre. Eventually, the other Coty perfumes were added to the packaging design such as Emeraude, L'Aimant, and L'Origan.




Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:

One of the first bottles used was the Rene Lalique designed bottle that featured the double moth frosted glass stopper. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances.

This bottle was also made by Baccarat in 1916, mold number 307. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25' tall.

This was later made by Coty's own glassworks and will be marked "Coty" on the base. The Coty marked bottle holds 1.6 oz of parfum and stands 3.25" tall, it was housed inside of a green leather covered box.

The moth stoppered bottle was finally discontinued in 1961.

This bottle shape was adapted in 1916 originally for L'Origan for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a gilt brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291. In 1928, these flat, square shaped crystal bottles were available in French leather cases. These bottles held Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre and Paris. I  have seen these bottles with L'Aimant labels too.









Fate of the Fragrance:


Ambre Antique, with its alluring blend of exotic ingredients anchored by the rare and coveted ambergris, enjoyed a storied legacy since its inception in 1905. However, despite its initial popularity and acclaim, the fragrance eventually faced the inevitable fate of discontinuation.

The decision to discontinue Ambre Antique likely stemmed from a multitude of factors, ranging from shifts in consumer preferences to changes in regulatory standards and supply chain challenges. As the fragrance landscape evolved over the years, newer trends and olfactory preferences emerged, leading to a decline in demand for traditional amber-based perfumes like Ambre Antique. Additionally, advancements in synthetic fragrance technology may have provided more cost-effective alternatives to natural ingredients like ambergris, making it increasingly challenging to sustain the production of perfumes reliant on such rare and expensive components.

Furthermore, external factors such as economic downturns and geopolitical upheavals may have also contributed to the discontinuation of Ambre Antique. Turbulent periods in history often disrupt the luxury goods market, prompting companies to streamline their product offerings and focus on more commercially viable options.

Despite its discontinuation, Ambre Antique remained a beloved scent for many enthusiasts, as evidenced by its continued listing for sale in a 1949 newspaper ad. Its enduring presence in the public consciousness speaks to the lasting impact it had on perfumery, preserving its legacy as a timeless classic cherished by connoisseurs and collectors alike. While the fragrance may no longer be readily available, its memory lives on in the hearts and minds of those who were captivated by its enchanting aroma, forever immortalizing Ambre Antique as a symbol of luxury, sophistication, and timeless allure.

Reformulation & Relaunch:


In a nostalgic revival, limited-edition reproduction bottles of Ambre Antique emerged in 1995, reintroducing the beloved fragrance to the world's stage. Produced under Coty's license by a company named Private Portfolio, these exquisite replicas paid homage to the original Lalique-designed flacons.

Fragrance Composition:


Press materials describe it as "A modernized version of the original 1910 formula. It is a romantic floral-oriental with a bright fruity top note, luscious middle notes of rose, ylang ylang and orange blossom, and a sensuous long-lasting drydown fused from vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean and amber."
  • Top notes: citrus, berries
  • Middle notes: rose, ylang ylang and orange blossom
  • Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean and amber

The Rose Sheet, 1995:
"Private Portfolio: Benckiser subsidiary reintroducing 85-year old Ambre Antique fragrance in limited edition. A total of 3,500 bottles of the scent, which will be available in late October in Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, will be produced worldwide. Ambre Antique is the first in a series of six limited edition offerings Private Portfolio will be re-launching from the Les Parfums Classiques de Francois Coty collection. The updated version of Ambre Antique is a "modern re-creation" of the original formula with "crisp top notes" of citrus and berries, a heart of rose and ylang-ylang and a "classic Oriental base," Private Portfolio says. The "faithful rendition" of the original flacon is etched with profiles of four women in flowing Grecian gowns. A 3 oz. eau de parfum in the limited edition flacon is priced at $350. The fragrance is also available in a 1.7 oz. edp spray for $90 and a 0.25 oz. purse spray for $40."


Bottles:



Crafted with precision and attention to detail, only 3,500 of these coveted bottles were released, each housing three ounces of the cherished scent. Sold exclusively at prestigious retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Harrod's, and Bergdorf Goodman, these collectible treasures commanded a retail price of $350 apiece. 

Today, these rare and sought-after bottles stand as prized possessions among collectors, valued not only for their olfactory allure but also for their intrinsic beauty and historical significance, fetching several hundred dollars in the secondary market.


Understanding the nuances between original René Lalique bottles and their recreated counterparts is crucial for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Examining the comparison photo below reveals several key distinctions to help discern between the two.

Firstly, attention to detail is paramount. Original Lalique bottles often exhibit exquisite craftsmanship, characterized by fine lines, intricate motifs, and flawless symmetry. Look for subtle imperfections or inconsistencies in the glasswork, as these can indicate handcrafted authenticity versus machine-made replication.

Secondly, consider the materials used. Lalique's original bottles were typically crafted from high-quality glass, with a distinctive frosted finish and delicate translucency. Recreated bottles may differ in texture or clarity, with variations in glass thickness or coloration that can betray their modern origin.

Additionally, examine the signature markings. Lalique's original pieces often bear the artist's signature or hallmark, discreetly etched or embossed into the glass. Pay close attention to these details, as they can provide valuable clues to the bottle's provenance and authenticity.

Lastly, consider the context of acquisition. Original Lalique bottles are rare and highly sought after, often commanding premium prices at reputable auction houses or antique dealers. Conversely, recreated bottles may be more readily available through authorized retailers or online marketplaces, with accompanying documentation or certificates of authenticity to verify their pedigree.

By carefully scrutinizing these factors and comparing the details in the provided photo, collectors can develop a discerning eye for distinguishing between original René Lalique bottles and their recreated counterparts, ensuring the preservation of this esteemed legacy for generations to come.


I have an original invitation to purchase the re-edition, the first page reads:
"Paris 1910, It was a wondrous era. In the loveliest of cities, Art Nouveau was at its height and artists were never more inspired. All would be swept away by the enchantment of Ambre Antique, a sensuous fragrance by master perfumer Francois Coty. Unavailable since 1915, Ambre Antique ...in a limited edition flacon, based on an original design by history's most famous designer of crystal, Rene Lalique...can be yours again."


WWD, 1995:
"PRIVATE STOCK: Benckiser Group’s Private Portfolio is summoning a ghost of perfumery’s past. Next month the company will revive the first of a six-item series of limited-edition women’s fragrances called Les Parfums Classiques de Francois Coty.
Coty Inc., Private Portfolio’s sister company, owns the trademarks, designs and fragrance formulas, which were created by Coty, a French perfumer, in the early 1900s.
 
The collection will bow this fall with the reintroduction of Ambre Antique, an oriental fragrance from 1910. Next will be L’Effleurt, set to appear in approximately a year, and Chypre and Emeraude, according to Victor E. Zast, president of Portfolio.
The company will produce only 3,500 bottles of Ambre Antique, then move on to the next brand.
 
While the juice will be tweaked slightly to make it more appealing to modern sensibilities, Zast said, the bottle is an exact recreation of the original Art Nouveau packaging designed by Rene Lalique. 
Ambre Antique’s 3-oz. eau de parfum, in a crystal flacon, will sell for $350. There will be a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum spray for $90 and 0.25-purse spray at $40. Zast said the fragrance will be in only 100 doors worldwide, and will be marketed through direct mail."

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