Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, was a fragrance steeped in historical allure and exotic fantasy. The name itself, Ambre Antique, directly translates from French as "Ancient Amber" (pronounced as "ahn-bruh ahn-teek"), evoking the image of a bygone era where rare and opulent materials were treasured. The name alone conjures visions of golden relics, perfumed chambers, and the sensuous mysteries of antiquity. Coty, a visionary perfumer and astute businessman, understood the romanticism surrounding ancient civilizations, particularly Ancient Egypt, and wove this fascination into the identity of his creation.
At the heart of Ambre Antique was ambergris, one of perfumery’s most legendary and enigmatic materials. A rare substance formed in the digestive system of sperm whales and aged by the sea, ambergris was prized for its complex, warm, and slightly animalic aroma. In the ancient world, it was revered for its unique scent and mystical qualities, believed to be a gift from the gods. The Egyptians, known for their mastery of fragrance and elaborate burial rituals, used resins, myrrh, and incense in both daily life and sacred ceremonies. Coty’s reference to the perfume of Ancient Egypt and gilded queens was not merely a marketing ploy; it resonated with the cultural imagination of the early 20th century, when discoveries like the excavation of Egyptian tombs and the growing field of Egyptology captivated the public.
The early 1900s, often referred to as the Belle Époque, was a period of artistic flourishing, technological innovation, and societal transformation. The fashion of the time reflected a shift towards greater freedom of movement—corsets were loosening, and the elegant S-curve silhouette, championed by designers like Paul Poiret, was replacing rigid Victorian styles. Women, inspired by exotic and oriental aesthetics, embraced luxurious fabrics, draped gowns, and intricate embroidery that echoed the styles of ancient civilizations. It was a time of opulence, but also of change, as women were beginning to assert greater independence in both fashion and society.
In this cultural landscape, a perfume like Ambre Antique would have felt like an indulgent escape into the past—an intimate connection to the grandeur and sensuality of ancient worlds. The name alone would have evoked feelings of mystery, luxury, and timeless beauty. It was not just a fragrance but an invitation to imagine oneself as a modern-day Cleopatra or an empress of forgotten dynasties, draped in silk and jewels, breathing in the intoxicating aroma of exotic spices and resins.
In terms of fragrance trends, Ambre Antique was both a product of its time and a pioneering composition. It was directly inspired by Jicky (1889) by Guerlain, one of the first modern perfumes to combine natural ingredients with synthetic materials, giving it an abstract, long-lasting quality. While Jicky played with fresh lavender and creamy vanilla, Ambre Antique leaned fully into warmth, spice, and balsamic richness, embracing the emerging trend of oriental perfumes that would later dominate the 20th century. At a time when floral soliflores and delicate, powdery scents were still popular, Ambre Antique stood out with its bold, sensual amber accord, setting the stage for the rise of deep, opulent fragrances that defined the Art Deco era.
Coty’s decision to draw inspiration from Ancient Egypt was a strategic and inspired choice. Egypt, with its grandeur, mysticism, and rich history of perfumery, had long captured the Western imagination. From the legendary beauty of Cleopatra to the lavish burial rituals of the pharaohs, Egyptian culture was synonymous with luxury, intrigue, and sensuality. By invoking these themes, Coty positioned Ambre Antique as more than just a perfume—it was a portal to a lost world, a bottled fantasy of antiquity reimagined for the modern woman.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an sweet amber oriental fragrance for women. It was directly inspired by Jicky by Guerlain from 1889.
- Top notes: almond, Bourbon geranium, Hungarian clary sage oil, Sicilian lemon, basil, Calabrian bergamot, Ceylon cinnamon, French carnation and Italian neroli, Dianthine (Firmenich)
- Middle notes: Iralia (Firmenich), Jamaican pepper, Indian tuberose, Russian coriander, thyme, Spanish rosemary, Grasse rose absolute, heliotropin, Grasse jasmine, Omani frankincense, Maltese labdanum, Somalian olibanum, Persian opoponax, Florentine orris concrete, ionone
- Base notes: coumarin, Venezuelan tonka bean, Arabian myrrh, Java vetiver, Brazilian rosewood, resins, Mysore sandalwood, Tibetan musk, Amber 83, ambreine, ambergris, Seychelles patchouli, Tibetan civet, vanillin, and Mexican vanilla
Ambre Antique made use of two Firmenich bases: Iralia and Dianthine. Iralia lends a sweet, floral woody note, while Dianthine suggests a spicy carnation bouquet.
Advertising Copy, 1936:
The New Yorker, 1937:
Advertising Copy, 1936:
"As exquisite gifts, they convey a tribute to loveliness as delicately as a bouquet of flowers, but of unfading fragrance— constantly renewing the charm of a rare and understanding compliment. AMBRE ANTIQUE-fragrance of ancient Egypt— for the woman of enigmatic allure, incomprehensible, aloof."
The New Yorker, 1937:
"Consult Coty, the magnificent, for amber (Ambre Antique), as usual, and for unadulterated chypre."
Exploration of the Ambreine Accord:
The ambreine accord, used by François Coty in the creation of L'Ambreine and later in L'Ambre Antique, is a complex, multi-layered blend of ingredients that evoke the warm, rich, and sensual qualities of amber while incorporating fresh, floral, and animalic notes. Each component of the ambreine accord contributes distinct characteristics that shape its overall scent.
Starting with bergamot, the top note of the ambreine accord, it adds a fresh, citrusy brightness to the blend. Bergamot's zesty, slightly floral aroma gives the composition a lively opening, cutting through the heavier, deeper notes and providing a clean, uplifting contrast. This burst of freshness softens the more intense ingredients that follow, ensuring the fragrance remains balanced.
Vanillin (or ethyl vanillin), a synthetic compound derived from vanilla, is a key component in creating the comforting, sweet warmth that amber fragrances are known for. The creamy, sugary scent of vanillin adds a soft, rich sweetness that envelops the wearer in a cozy, almost gourmand embrace. This sweetness also contributes a roundness to the composition, blending beautifully with the other notes while ensuring the fragrance feels smooth and comforting rather than harsh or overly floral.
Coumarin, a compound with a sweet, hay-like aroma, provides a powdery, slightly herbal aspect to the ambreine accord. Its dry, warm scent evokes the feeling of a sun-drenched meadow or a well-worn leather chair. Coumarin’s inclusion deepens the fragrance, adding a soft, dry, and almost balsamic character that ties together the more ethereal and floral notes of the composition.
The inclusion of civet adds a distinctly animalic, musky quality to the blend. Known for its deep, rich, and slightly fecal scent, civet introduces an earthy, sensual, and almost erotic dimension to the fragrance. It heightens the animalistic qualities of the perfume, bringing depth and complexity to the amber base. This note grounds the other lighter, fresher ingredients, making the fragrance feel more intimate and primal.
Moving into the base of the accord, patchouli offers a rich, earthy, and slightly spicy aroma. Patchouli’s dense, woody scent adds an additional layer of depth, contributing a grounding element to the fragrance while enhancing the resinous qualities of amber. Its dark, musky character helps to create a sense of richness and weight, balancing the freshness of bergamot and the sweetness of vanillin.
Sandalwood, another woodsy note, brings a smooth, creamy, and slightly milky quality to the base of the ambreine accord. Sandalwood’s soft, sweet, and slightly balsamic fragrance acts as a bridge between the earthiness of patchouli and the sensual animalic notes, creating a seamless transition between the heavier and lighter aspects of the composition.
Rose adds a delicate floral touch to the accord, providing a soft, romantic contrast to the richer, more intense notes. The floral notes of rose lend an air of refinement and elegance, tempering the musk and wood with a fleeting sweetness that balances the overall warmth of the perfume.
Labdanum, a resin extracted from the rockrose plant, contributes a warm, resinous, and slightly leathery scent to the ambreine accord. Labdanum is a key ingredient in many amber fragrances, known for its rich, balsamic qualities that evoke the feeling of deep, golden warmth. Its presence enhances the amber-like nature of the composition, deepening the fragrance and adding a touch of mystery.
Vetiveryl acetate offers a fresh, woody, and slightly green note with an earthy, smoky undertone. This addition brings a crisp, clean dimension to the base of the perfume, balancing the richness of the other notes while providing an element of complexity that adds to the overall sophistication of the fragrance.
Heliotropin, known for its sweet, powdery scent, introduces a soft, almost almond-like sweetness to the accord. It lends a comforting, slightly floral aspect to the perfume, enhancing the powdery, sweet facets of vanillin and coumarin while complementing the warmth of the other base notes.
Finally, nitromusks, a group of synthetic musks, bring a clean, soft, and powdery undertone to the fragrance. These musks add a modern, almost soapy freshness that helps to soften the animalic notes of civet and enhance the overall smoothness of the perfume, providing a subtle but essential lift to the deep, warm composition.
Together, these components create an ambreine accord that is rich, warm, and multifaceted—blending citrusy freshness with deep, sensual woods, sweet florals, and animalic warmth. The resulting fragrance is both luxurious and mysterious, offering an elegant yet intimate scent that evokes the deep golden hues of amber while maintaining a delicate balance of complexity and refinement.
Scent Profile:
Ambre Antique by Coty is a fragrance that unfolds like a sensory voyage through the finest raw materials the world has to offer, each note blooming with its own evocative presence.
The opening is a shimmering interplay of warmth and brightness, where the creamy, slightly bitter nuttiness of almond swirls with the velvety, rose-tinted freshness of Bourbon geranium. This particular geranium, grown in the sun-drenched fields of Réunion, possesses a richer, fruitier nuance than its African counterparts, tinged with an almost minty coolness. Hungarian clary sage oil follows, exuding a musky, almost leathery herbal depth, its scent thick with sun-baked earth and a whisper of sweet tobacco.
A burst of Sicilian lemon cuts through, its zesty brilliance like a golden ray of Mediterranean sun, ripened in the volcanic soil of Mount Etna, lending it an unmatched vibrancy. Basil adds a sharp, aromatic green edge, while Calabrian bergamot, a jewel of southern Italy, offers its exquisite balance of tart citrus and floral sweetness, a more refined and nuanced version than bergamot from other regions. The heat of Ceylon cinnamon rises next, its dry, spicy sweetness carrying hints of sun-warmed bark, richer and more complex than the cassia variety.
French carnation, fiery and pepper-laced, drapes over the composition like crushed crimson petals, lending a heady floral spiciness, deepened by the honeyed, waxen glow of Italian neroli. The addition of Dianthine, a Firmenich accord mimicking the warm, clove-like facets of carnation, amplifies the fragrance’s floral richness, enhancing the vibrancy of the opening.
As the top notes settle, the fragrance deepens into an opulent, multifaceted heart. The aromatic heat of Jamaican pepper—brighter and more citrusy than its Indian counterpart—adds a tingly bite, mingling with the narcotic creaminess of Indian tuberose, a flower so intoxicating it has been linked to forbidden pleasures for centuries. Russian coriander unfurls with a crisp, slightly woody citrus facet, complementing the sharp, pine-kissed freshness of thyme and the resinous, almost camphoraceous intensity of Spanish rosemary.
Then, the florals emerge in full force: Grasse rose absolute, cultivated in the perfume capital of France, exudes its deep, honeyed, almost jammy opulence, while heliotropin lends a delicate almond-vanilla softness, adding a powdery, sunlit warmth. Grasse jasmine, harvested at dawn, spills forth its sweet, almost animalic nectar, merging with the sacred depth of Omani frankincense, its resinous, incense-like purity imbued with the arid winds of the Arabian Peninsula. Maltese labdanum, thick and leathery, drapes the fragrance in a molten amber richness, intertwined with the balsamic smokiness of Somalian olibanum.
Persian opoponax, with its warm, slightly caramelized depth, creates a bridge between the incense and floral elements, leading into the powdery coolness of Florentine orris concrete. Extracted from aged iris roots, the orris brings a violet-tinged, suede-like texture, softened further by ionone, a Firmenich molecule that enhances the ethereal, woody-floral elegance of the blend. Iralia, another Firmenich ingredient, adds a luminous, slightly fruity floralcy, elevating the heart into a radiant, almost golden glow.
The dry-down is an exquisite embrace of woods, resins, and sensual animalic accords. Coumarin, with its hay-like, almond-sweet warmth, melds seamlessly with the deep, smoky, vanilla-kissed facets of Venezuelan tonka bean. Arabian myrrh, ancient and mystical, lends its rich, balsamic intensity, enhanced by the damp, earthy smokiness of Java vetiver, a variety prized for its leathery depth. Brazilian rosewood unfurls with a warm, balsamic-spiced woodiness, mingling with a symphony of resins that glow like amber embers.
Mysore sandalwood, revered as the finest in the world, envelops the composition in its milky, buttery smoothness, its soft incense-like sweetness lingering on the skin like a sacred relic. Tibetan musk, an echo of old-world perfumery, adds a feral, animalic sensuality, merging with the golden, sun-warmed depth of Amber 83 and ambreine, synthetic accords that amplify the richness of natural ambergris. True ambergris, sourced from the ocean, exudes its saline, warm-skin sensuality, a whisper of the sea’s eternal mystery.
Seychelles patchouli, aged to perfection, offers a deep, earthy, almost chocolate-like depth, blending seamlessly with the raw, untamed muskiness of Tibetan civet. Finally, the fragrance closes in a haze of sweet decadence—vanillin, with its smooth, creamy warmth, intertwines with the spiced, boozy richness of Mexican vanilla, leaving behind a trail of golden warmth, both soft and utterly intoxicating.
Ambre Antique is not merely a perfume; it is an olfactory symphony, a voyage across continents and centuries, where the finest materials from around the world converge into an ambered dream of richness, sensuality, and warmth.
Personal Perfumes:
During the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies commonly propagated the notion that a woman's complexion or hair color should determine her choice of fragrance. This marketing strategy suggested that blondes were best suited to lighter scents, while brunettes were recommended heavier Oriental perfumes. For blondes, options included Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. Brunettes, on the other hand, were directed towards scents like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were advised to opt for fragrances such as Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.
However, alternative marketing strategies also emerged, emphasizing perfume choices based on personality or mood rather than physical attributes. These techniques proved successful, resulting in the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, particularly by those seeking gifts or unsure about their fragrance preferences. Options ranged from scents suited for sunny and joyous personalities like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette, to those for dreamy and elusive types, such as Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc. Exotic types were recommended scents like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, while mysterious personalities were steered towards fragrances like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen. Lastly, for those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, choices included Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan.
Product List:
The availability of Ambre Antique in various forms reflects Coty's commitment to providing options for different preferences and occasions, catering to a diverse clientele with discerning tastes.
The Parfum extrait, or perfume extract, offered the most concentrated form of the fragrance, ideal for those who desired a long-lasting and intense scent experience. Its potency allowed for a lingering trail of the rich ambergris notes, enveloping the wearer in a veil of opulence and allure.
The toilet water, a term synonymous with Eau de Toilette in modern perfumery, provided a lighter rendition of Ambre Antique, suitable for everyday wear and warmer climates. This formulation retained the essence of the original fragrance while offering a more refreshing and invigorating experience.
The cologne version of Ambre Antique likely featured a lower concentration of aromatic compounds, delivering a subtle yet distinctive scent that was perfect for casual settings and daytime use. Its lighter nature made it a versatile option for those seeking a hint of sophistication without overwhelming presence.
Lastly, the talc offered a luxurious way to indulge in the fragrance beyond traditional liquid formulations. Applied to the body after bathing or as a finishing touch to dressing, the talc imparted a delicate scent while leaving the skin feeling soft and velvety.
With its diverse product range, Ambre Antique catered to individuals seeking different levels of fragrance intensity and application methods, ensuring that everyone could experience the enchanting allure of this legendary perfume in a manner that suited their preferences and lifestyle.
Bottles:
In 1910, Coty commissioned his close friend René Lalique to craft an exquisite flacon to contain the precious Ambre Antique perfume. Lalique, renowned for his mastery in glasswork, delivered a stunning creation worthy of the fragrance it held. The resulting flacon, crafted from frosted glass, was adorned with intricately molded Grecian maidens, each figure radiating an aura of timeless elegance and grace. Standing at a height of 6 inches, this bottle became a coveted piece for collectors and connoisseurs alike, symbolizing the epitome of luxury and sophistication.
Harper's Bazaar, 1916:
"One may rise to the supreme heights of luxury and possess the hand carved masterpiece of the famous Lalique the intaglio bottle which holds the Styx of Coty at seventy five dollars another gem is Ambre Antique at twenty five dollars and seventy five cents."
The meticulous craftsmanship of Lalique is evident in the intricate details of the flacon. Each maiden, though subtly different from the next, shares a reddish-brown patina that accentuates the motif delicately etched into the fine, frosted glass. This bas-relief design adds depth and texture to the surface, capturing the essence of classical beauty and refinement. As light dances upon the surface of the flacon, the Grecian maidens seem to come to life, their graceful forms inviting admiration and reverence.
Beyond its function as a vessel for fragrance, the Lalique flacon transcends mere utility, becoming a work of art in its own right. It serves as a testament to the enduring partnership between Coty and Lalique, two visionaries who understood the power of scent and beauty to elevate the human experience. With its timeless allure and impeccable craftsmanship, this flacon continues to captivate admirers, embodying the spirit of luxury and sophistication that defines the Ambre Antique perfume and the era in which it flourished.
Buyer Beware! A company named Carlova issued these bottles under their "Society Parfumeur" label for their Narcisse perfume. Carlova used exact copies of Lalique's Ambre Antique bottle for their perfumes. The main differences are the shapes of the stoppers (which have cork plugs) and the copy bottle is not molded with the Lalique signature as on the original bottles. These were made in two different sizes. The tallest bottle stands 7.25" tall. This flacon was also used by the Verley company for their perfume Fleur de Mai Jasmin during the same time period.
Briar Stopper Flacon:
Rene Lalique designed this flacon in 1911, and it was later made by Coty's own glassworks after 1920. The clear glass bottle is tall, with a square base, and features a frosted glass stopper molded with the "briar" motif. The bottle was originally made to house the various Eau de Toilettes, but the design was later adapted to include different sizes including a miniature versions to house parfum. The miniature size is dubbed "Petite Modele" and debuted in 1936 and held 0.27 oz.
In the 1920s, the boxes had messages inside reminding the owners of the bottles that "These exquisite crystal flacons are hand-cut in the Paris ateliers of COTY - Care must be taken in placing them on the dressing table to avoid breakage of the corners."
Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:
The bottle has an embossed band along the upper part and a frosted glass stopper molded with flowers and ridge details. People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France. The parfum bottle was available in three sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz. The bottles were discontinued in 1932. The 1/4 oz bottle itself was discontinued in 1934.
Etui a Cigarette Presentation:
Also introduced in 1927, was the "Etui a Cigarette" presentation. Bottle stands 3 1/8" tall. People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France and is molded or acid stamped with "Coty France" on the base as it was made at Coty's own glassworks.
Rene Lalique Model No. Coty-Perfume-1, circa 1912. The tall frosted glass bottle is a narrow, convex and concave triangular shape with a rectangular base, its four vertical corners molded with "reptile" bumps such as those seen on alligators and crocodiles. It features a frosted glass stopper molded with a double lizards motif. Rene Lalique designed this flacon in 1912 to hold the fragrance, Chypre. The bottle was later used to hold all of Coty's perfumes in the 1910s through the 1920s. The bottle was available in two sizes: a smaller one to hold parfum and a larger one for the eau de colognes and eau de toilettes.
La Jacee Cristal Flacon:
Ambre Antique, as well as other Coty perfumes were, for a brief time, contained inside the square-shaped crystal bottle originally created for the perfume La Jacee. Its frosted glass stopper, adorned with a delicate pattern of bramble branches and raised berries, reminiscent of Lalique's intricate designs, captivates the eye with its exquisite detailing. However, despite popular belief, this masterpiece was not crafted by Lalique, but rather by Coty's own skilled artisans.
Measuring at a modest 2 inches square and standing elegantly at 2.25 inches tall, supported by four gracefully raised feet, this box-shaped bottle exudes an air of sophistication from every angle. Its base, intricately cut in a radiant pattern, reflects light in a mesmerizing dance, adding a touch of brilliance to its already enchanting design. Contained within this elegant flacon lies 2.50 ounces of parfum.
Since its debut in 1926, these bottles have been meticulously crafted at Coty's esteemed glassworks in Pantin, a testament to the brand's dedication to excellence and tradition. To authenticate its pedigree, each bottle bears the distinctive acid-etched inscription on its base: "CRISTAL - COTY," alongside Coty's revered maker's mark—a symbol of unparalleled quality and craftsmanship that ensures its place among the most coveted fragrances in the world.
In 1935, the Coty floral parfums were packaged in new limited edition ensembles featuring mimosa prints on yellow backgrounds. The following perfumes were included: Muguet, Oeillet France, La Rose Jacqueminot, Ambre Antique, Lilas Pourpre, and Violette Pourpre. Eventually, the other Coty perfumes were added to the packaging design such as Emeraude, L'Aimant, and L'Origan.
Obelisque Flacon:
The "Obelisque" flacon is a tall, slender bottle topped by a flat, square frosted glass stopper molded with stylized foliate motifs with the name COTY molded in each corner. This bottle made its debut in 1935. It was available in the following fragrances: Styx, Paris, Chypre, Emeraude, L'Aimant, and L'Origan. The flacon was also available in a miniature version holding just 0.34 oz and using the same scale motif stopper as the Lilas Pourpre and Louvre packaging styles.
People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France and is molded or acid stamped with "Coty France" on the base.
Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:
One of the first bottles used was the Rene Lalique designed bottle that featured the double moth frosted glass stopper. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances.
This bottle was also made by Baccarat in 1916, mold number 307. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25' tall.
This was later made by Coty's own glassworks and will be marked "Coty" on the base. The Coty marked bottle holds 1.6 oz of parfum and stands 3.25" tall, it was housed inside of a green leather covered box.
The moth stoppered bottle was finally discontinued in 1961.
This bottle shape was adapted in 1916 originally for L'Origan for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a gilt brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291. In 1928, these flat, square shaped crystal bottles were available in French leather cases. These bottles held Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre and Paris. I have seen these bottles with L'Aimant labels too.
Cylindrical Frosted Stopper Bottles:
As early as 1923, a new style of bottle was introduced, it seems for the perfumes Chypre, L'Origan, Paris, Lilas Blanc, Iris, Heliotrope, Violette Pourpre, and L'Effleurt. It is a cylindrical shape and fitted with the familiar frosted stopper. I have found there are two types of stoppers, you can see in the photos below.
There are several different boxes used, a rectangular paper covered box reads: "The bottle, label and box of this item have been registered in accordance with the law and are the property of Coty. This specialty and its accessories were created by Coty in factories at the Cite des Parfums in Suresnes after Paris (France). Our products are the exclusive property of Coty incorporated for the United States of America where they are manufactured. Counterfeits will be rigorously pursued. All our specialties are sold under the Coty name without any first name."
Don't be fooled by sellers who claim this is a Lalique or Lalique-designed bottle. Lalique had nothing to do with it. People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France and are acid stamped "Coty France" on base. Bottles have been found in various sizes:
- 2.5" tall.
- 0.80 oz stood 3" tall.
- 3.25" tall.
- 3.75" tall.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Ambre Antique, with its alluring blend of exotic ingredients anchored by the rare and coveted ambergris, enjoyed a storied legacy since its inception in 1905. However, despite its initial popularity and acclaim, the fragrance eventually faced the inevitable fate of discontinuation.
The decision to discontinue Ambre Antique likely stemmed from a multitude of factors, ranging from shifts in consumer preferences to changes in regulatory standards and supply chain challenges. As the fragrance landscape evolved over the years, newer trends and olfactory preferences emerged, leading to a decline in demand for traditional amber-based perfumes like Ambre Antique. Additionally, advancements in synthetic fragrance technology may have provided more cost-effective alternatives to natural ingredients like ambergris, making it increasingly challenging to sustain the production of perfumes reliant on such rare and expensive components.
Furthermore, external factors such as economic downturns and geopolitical upheavals may have also contributed to the discontinuation of Ambre Antique. Turbulent periods in history often disrupt the luxury goods market, prompting companies to streamline their product offerings and focus on more commercially viable options.
Despite its discontinuation, Ambre Antique remained a beloved scent for many enthusiasts, as evidenced by its continued listing for sale in a 1949 newspaper ad. Its enduring presence in the public consciousness speaks to the lasting impact it had on perfumery, preserving its legacy as a timeless classic cherished by connoisseurs and collectors alike. While the fragrance may no longer be readily available, its memory lives on in the hearts and minds of those who were captivated by its enchanting aroma, forever immortalizing Ambre Antique as a symbol of luxury, sophistication, and timeless allure.
Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 1995, Ambre Antique made a triumphant return to the world of fine fragrance produced under Coty's license under the auspices of Private Portfolio, a Benckiser subsidiary dedicated to reviving classic perfumes from the legendary François Coty collection. This limited-edition reintroduction of the 1910 masterpiece was an homage to the golden age of perfumery, where rich, opulent compositions reigned supreme. Only 3,500 bottles were produced worldwide, adding an air of exclusivity to the release. The scent debuted in prestigious retailers such as Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, catering to a clientele that valued heritage, artistry, and the timeless appeal of classic fragrance.
Positioned as a “modern re-creation” rather than an exact replica, the updated Ambre Antique retained the spirit of its predecessor while adapting to contemporary sensibilities. The composition opened with crisp, effervescent top notes of citrus and berries, creating a bright and inviting introduction. These luminous notes gave way to a rich floral heart of velvety rose and the exotic, creamy sweetness of ylang-ylang. The fragrance settled into a warm, sensuous Oriental base, where the golden embrace of amber mingled with the creamy smoothness of vanilla, the soft woodsiness of sandalwood, and the almond-kissed warmth of tonka bean. This reformulated version preserved the elegance and depth of the original while offering a fresher, more refined interpretation suited to modern tastes.
No less attention was paid to the flacon, which was a near-faithful rendition of the original. The exquisite bottle was etched with the profiles of four women in flowing Grecian gowns, evoking an air of classical refinement and feminine grace. This intricate design was a nod to Coty’s penchant for artistry, as he often collaborated with master glassmakers like René Lalique to create bottles as captivating as the fragrances within. The 3 oz. eau de parfum, encased in this beautifully detailed flacon, was priced at $350, reinforcing its status as a luxury collectible. For those seeking a more accessible option, Ambre Antique was also available in a 1.7 oz. eau de parfum spray for $90 and a 0.25 oz. purse spray for $40, ensuring that this timeless scent could be enjoyed in different formats.
When adjusted for inflation, the 1995 prices of Ambre Antique reveal just how much of a luxury item this revival truly was. The exquisite 3 oz. eau de parfum, originally priced at $350, would amount to approximately $734.94 in today’s money—an investment befitting its limited-edition status and the painstaking craftsmanship of its René Lalique-designed bottle. The more accessible 1.7 oz. eau de parfum spray, which retailed for $90, translates to $188.99 in 2024, while the petite 0.25 oz. purse spray, once available for $40, would now command around $83.99. These modern equivalents underscore the exclusivity and prestige of Ambre Antique, reflecting its place as not just a fragrance but a collectible piece of olfactory history.
With Ambre Antique, Private Portfolio sought not only to reintroduce a legendary fragrance but to reawaken an appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship of early 20th-century perfumery. This release marked the beginning of a series of six revivals from Les Parfums Classiques de François Coty, reaffirming Coty's legacy as one of the great visionaries of modern fragrance.
I have an original invitation to purchase the re-edition, the first page reads:
"Paris 1910, It was a wondrous era. In the loveliest of cities, Art Nouveau was at its height and artists were never more inspired. All would be swept away by the enchantment of Ambre Antique, a sensuous fragrance by master perfumer Francois Coty. Unavailable since 1915, Ambre Antique ...in a limited edition flacon, based on an original design by history's most famous designer of crystal, Rene Lalique...can be yours again."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Press materials described it as "A modernized version of the original 1910 formula. It is a romantic floral-oriental with a bright fruity top note, luscious middle notes of rose, ylang ylang and orange blossom, and a sensuous long-lasting drydown fused from vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean and amber."
- Top notes: citrus, berries
- Middle notes: rose, ylang ylang and orange blossom
- Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean and amber
Scent Profile:
The first breath of Ambre Antique by Private Portfolio is a luminous embrace of citrus and berries, bursting forth like the first rays of golden sunlight filtering through a jeweled glass window. The citrus notes—perhaps a fusion of lemon, bergamot, and mandarin—are bright and effervescent, their sparkling zest tingling the senses with a refreshing sharpness. Intertwined with these are the berries, lush and ripe, their juicy sweetness adding a tantalizing contrast. The interplay of tart and sweet recalls the scent of freshly crushed fruit, the moment before it melts on the tongue, releasing its nectar.
As the fragrance unfolds, the florals emerge, their presence deep and intoxicating. Rose—perhaps a velvety, crimson damask—blooms at the heart, exuding a heady richness that feels both regal and timeless. Its honeyed depth is complemented by ylang ylang, that exotic flower with its narcotic, banana-tinged sweetness, lending the composition a tropical opulence. Then comes the orange blossom, radiant and luminous, its creamy white petals releasing a soft, sun-warmed scent that is at once sweet, slightly green, and delicately powdery. Together, these floral notes create a harmony that is both romantic and sensual, their warmth unfurling like silk against bare skin.
The drydown is a slow descent into the depths of indulgence. Vanilla, thick and buttery, wraps the senses in a velvety embrace, its comforting sweetness balanced by the creamy, golden warmth of sandalwood. This particular sandalwood, likely sourced from Mysore, carries an unmatched depth—soft, milky, and slightly smoky, with a meditative serenity. Tonka bean, with its coumarin-rich aroma, adds a subtle gourmand touch, whispering of almond and hay, while amber—deep, resinous, and glowing with a golden translucence—binds all the elements together. This final phase is sultry and lingering, like the memory of a lover’s touch, leaving behind an aura of warmth and timeless sensuality.
Bottles:
Crafted with precision and attention to detail, only 3,500 of these coveted bottles were released, each housing three ounces of the cherished scent. Sold exclusively at prestigious retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Harrod's, and Bergdorf Goodman, these collectible treasures commanded a retail price of $350 apiece.
Today, these rare and sought-after bottles stand as prized possessions among collectors, valued not only for their olfactory allure but also for their intrinsic beauty and historical significance, fetching several hundred dollars in the secondary market.
Understanding the nuances between original René Lalique bottles and their recreated counterparts is crucial for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Examining the comparison photo below reveals several key distinctions to help discern between the two.
Firstly, attention to detail is paramount. Original Lalique bottles often exhibit exquisite craftsmanship, characterized by fine lines, intricate motifs, and flawless symmetry. Look for subtle imperfections or inconsistencies in the glasswork, as these can indicate handcrafted authenticity versus machine-made replication.
Secondly, consider the materials used. Lalique's original bottles were typically crafted from high-quality glass, with a distinctive frosted finish and delicate translucency. Recreated bottles may differ in texture or clarity, with variations in glass thickness or coloration that can betray their modern origin.
Additionally, examine the signature markings. Lalique's original pieces often bear the artist's signature or hallmark, discreetly etched or embossed into the glass. Pay close attention to these details, as they can provide valuable clues to the bottle's provenance and authenticity.
Lastly, consider the context of acquisition. Original Lalique bottles are rare and highly sought after, often commanding premium prices at reputable auction houses or antique dealers. Conversely, recreated bottles may be more readily available through authorized retailers or online marketplaces, with accompanying documentation or certificates of authenticity to verify their pedigree.
By carefully scrutinizing these factors and comparing the details in the provided photo, collectors can develop a discerning eye for distinguishing between original René Lalique bottles and their recreated counterparts, ensuring the preservation of this esteemed legacy for generations to come.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In the fall of 1995, the Benckiser Group’s Private Portfolio division embarked on an ambitious journey to resurrect the masterpieces of François Coty, a visionary who revolutionized modern perfumery in the early 20th century. The first fragrance in this six-piece revival series, Les Parfums Classiques de François Coty, was Ambre Antique, an opulent oriental originally launched in 1910. This reintroduction was not just a nostalgic homage but a testament to the enduring power of Coty’s artistry.
With only 3,500 bottles produced, Ambre Antique was a true collector’s item, available in an exclusive distribution of just 100 retail locations worldwide, including luxury department stores and select boutiques. The fragrance was also marketed through direct mail, ensuring it reached an audience that appreciated both its historical significance and refined craftsmanship. According to Victor E. Zast, president of Private Portfolio, while the original composition was subtly adjusted to appeal to contemporary tastes, the spirit of the scent remained intact. The new formula retained its rich oriental warmth, featuring a luminous opening of citrus and berries, a romantic floral heart of rose and ylang-ylang, and a sumptuous base of amber, sandalwood, vanilla, and tonka bean. This delicate modernization ensured that Ambre Antique remained as captivating and sensuous as it had been in its original era.
Equally significant was the painstaking recreation of its legendary flacon. The bottle was an exact replica of the original Art Nouveau masterpiece designed by René Lalique, a luminary of glass artistry whose collaborations with Coty helped redefine perfume presentation. Adorned with the elegant profiles of four women in flowing Grecian gowns, the flacon exuded timeless sophistication, capturing the ethereal romance and classical beauty that defined early 20th-century perfumery. The 3 oz. eau de parfum in this exquisite crystal bottle was priced at $350, underscoring its status as a luxurious heirloom piece. For those desiring a more practical format, a 1.7 oz. eau de parfum spray was available for $90, while a 0.25 oz. purse spray retailed for $40.
Following Ambre Antique, Private Portfolio planned to continue reviving Coty’s iconic scents, with L’Effleurt slated for release the following year, followed by Chypre and Emeraude. This dedication to preserving Coty’s olfactory legacy reflected not only a deep appreciation for his pioneering work but also a desire to introduce a new generation to the grandeur of perfumery’s past. With its meticulous attention to detail, historical reverence, and luxurious presentation, the 1995 revival of Ambre Antique was more than just a fragrance—it was a bridge between eras, inviting perfume lovers to experience a lost world of elegance and artistry. Unfortunately, none of the other fragrances were revived.
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