La Fougeraie Au Crepuscule by Coty c1928

The launch of "La Fougeraie Au Crepuscule" by Coty in 1928 marked a significant moment in the history of perfume. François Coty, a renowned perfumer and entrepreneur, was behind this creation. It's noteworthy that this perfume was released during the interwar period, a time of significant cultural shifts and artistic exploration.

The choice of launching in 1928 places it in the era known as the "Roaring Twenties," a time characterized by economic prosperity, cultural dynamism, and social change, particularly in Western societies. Perfume, along with other luxury goods, experienced a surge in popularity during this time, as people sought to indulge in sensual pleasures and express their newfound freedoms.

The fact that "La Fougeraie Au Crepuscule" took five years to perfect speaks to the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that François Coty and his team invested in its creation. Perfume-making during this period was often a labor-intensive process, involving the sourcing of rare and exotic ingredients, as well as the blending of various essences to achieve a harmonious and distinctive scent profile.

By 1932, the perfume had made its way to the United States, reflecting Coty's ambition to tap into the lucrative American market. The 1930s marked a time of economic turmoil with the onset of the Great Depression, yet luxury items like perfume continued to hold appeal for those who could afford them.

"La Fougeraie Au Crepuscule" holds additional significance as François Coty's final perfume before his death in 1934. Coty was a pioneering figure in the world of fragrance, credited with revolutionizing the perfume industry through his innovative marketing strategies and the introduction of new scent compositions. As such, this perfume represents the culmination of his lifelong dedication to the art of perfumery.

Overall, the launch of "La Fougeraie Au Crepuscule" in the late 1920s and its subsequent arrival in the United States in the early 1930s occurred against the backdrop of a vibrant and evolving cultural landscape, marking a notable chapter in the history of perfume.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what did it smell like? It is classified as a cool woodsy floral fougere fragrance for women. La Fougeraie au Crépuscule was described as "a sweet bouquet with a dominant floral note of a sophisticated type." The perfume was originally tinted green, over the years, it has darkened.

• Top notes: bergamot, almond, geranium, aldehydes
• Middle notes: fern, lavender, hay, herbs, carnation, spices, jasmine, rose
• Base notes: vanilla, tobacco, ambergris, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, woods, labdanum, musk, tonka bean, vetiver

Scent Profile:

Picture yourself stepping into the heart of a clandestine woods at twilight during the prohibition era of the 1920s, where the air is thick with secrecy and adventure. As you take a deep breath, the intoxicating aroma of "La Fougeraie au Crépuscule" unfolds before you, revealing its clandestine allure through each individual ingredient.

At first sniff, the top notes tantalize your senses with their bright and inviting presence. The tangy zest of bergamot hits your nose first, reminiscent of the thrill of a risky endeavor. Almond follows closely behind, its nutty sweetness offering a hint of indulgence amidst the intrigue. Geranium lends a floral freshness to the mix, evoking the scent of wildflowers blooming under the cover of darkness, while aldehydes add a touch of mystery, like a veil over a forbidden affair.

As you venture deeper into the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a lush and vibrant tapestry of scents, much like the undergrowth of the forest at twilight. Fern and lavender intertwine, their verdant and aromatic notes weaving a sense of intrigue and anticipation. Hay and herbs add a rustic charm, evoking images of hidden fields where secrets are whispered. Carnation and spices lend an exotic allure, like the whispers of forbidden desires, while jasmine and rose infuse the air with their delicate yet intoxicating fragrance, hinting at the sophistication of the clandestine operation.

Finally, as the scent settles on your skin, the base notes emerge, grounding you in the deep and mysterious essence of the forest at night. Vanilla offers a soft sweetness, like the comforting embrace of a moonlit night, while tobacco and ambergris add a hint of smoky intrigue, reminiscent of hidden vices and underground dealings. Oakmoss and sandalwood provide an earthy richness, like the scent of damp earth underfoot, while patchouli and woods add a rugged edge, hinting at the dangers that lurk in the shadows. Labdanum and musk lend a sensual warmth, like the lingering touch of a forbidden lover, while tonka bean and vetiver add a complexity that captivates the senses, leaving you spellbound in its wake.

As you breathe in the essence of "La Fougeraie au Crépuscule," you can't help but feel transported to a world of intrigue and adventure, where every scent tells a story and every whisper carries a secret. It's more than just a fragrance—it's an olfactory journey through the hidden depths of the prohibition era, where danger and desire collide in the darkness of the night.

What Others Have Said:

Philippine Magazine, 1928:

"La Fougeraie au Crépuscule expresses the dark, cool mystery of ferns at twilight. In a crystal column."

A 1932 ad reads:

"Fernery at Twilight - to say it in English, an enchanting Coty perfume. A mysterious commingling of dew and the mood of a fernery at twilight captured and cool."

A 1933 ad reads:

"Program for a successful summer - overlay your bright modern mind with a film of demureness, wear skirts that swish, and trust confidently to "Fernery at Twilight" - Coty's grand new perfume success. "La Fougeraie Au Crépuscule" is the essence of the mode - an apparent guileless odeur, masking subtleties unspoken. A forest glade seeped with the ferns delicate, heady witchery - was Coty's inspiration for this newest Perfume."

A 1934 ad reads:

"Fernery at Twilight $1.50. Coty's compelling perfume not yet known to too many. The poignant dewy scent of twilight falling on a fernladen vale."

Illustrated London News, 1934:

"LA FOUGERAIE AU CREPUSCULE. A most appealing fragrance— warm, exotic, subtly reminisce it of a tropical fernery at sunset. In tasseled presentation box."

A 1935 ad reads:

"FERNERY at TWILIGHT. A perfume redolent with rich twilight fragrances of the Royal Fern. Genuine Cut Glass Perfume Bottle with each dram."

 A 1936 ad reads:

"the truly great perfumer Coty excels in the creation of dramatic perfumes ... the mystery of ferns at twilight in La Fougeraie au Crepuscule."

Another 1936 ad reads:

"Fernery at Twilight - a subtly different fresh perfume one that seems to interpret the magic of lush ferns by moonlight - $2.00 to $20.00"

"La Fougeraie au Crépuscule" is a perfume that captivates the imagination with its dark, cool mystery, evoking the enchanting ambiance of ferns at twilight. Described as an essence encased in a crystal column, it embodies the ethereal beauty of nature at dusk. Ads from 1932 and 1933 further emphasize its allure, depicting it as a mysterious blend of dew and the atmosphere of a fernery at twilight, perfectly encapsulating the mood of a summer evening. The perfume, priced at $1.50 in 1934, continues to intrigue with its poignant dewy scent, reminiscent of twilight falling on a fern-laden vale. Illustrated in the London News of 1934, it's portrayed as a warm, exotic fragrance that transports one to a tropical fernery at sunset, presented in a tasseled box. The 1935 ad highlights its association with the Royal Fern, offering a genuine cut glass perfume bottle with each purchase. By 1936, the perfume still stands out as a dramatic creation by Coty, embodying the mystery and magic of ferns at twilight, while another ad suggests a fresh interpretation that captures the lushness of ferns by moonlight, available at prices ranging from $2.00 to $20.00.

Quite A Personal Perfume:

 In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume marketing often tailored scent recommendations to women's appearances or personalities, reflecting societal norms of the time. Companies suggested that blondes should opt for lighter fragrances like Paris, L'Aimant, or La Rose Jacqueminot, while brunettes were encouraged to wear heavier, Oriental scents such as L'Origan or Emeraude. Red-haired women were advised to choose perfumes like Emeraude or Iris to complement their unique coloring. 

Alternatively, some perfumers promoted the idea of selecting scents based on personality traits or moods rather than physical attributes. This approach categorized fragrances according to various personality types: sunny and joyous women might prefer L'Effleurt or Muguet, while dreamy and elusive types might be drawn to Jasmine de Corse or La Jacinthe. Exotic personalities were directed towards Chypre or Violette Pourpre, while those with mysterious qualities might favor Ambre Antique or Styx. Lastly, perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, or L'Origan were recommended for women with sophisticated temperaments. These marketing strategies proved effective, leading to a significant increase in perfume sales as individuals sought out scents tailored to their perceived identities or as gifts for others.

Bottles and Packaging:

The exquisite bottle of "La Fougeraie au Crépuscule," designed by Pierre Camin, boasted exceptional craftsmanship and innovation for its time. Standing tall at 5.51 inches, its columnar shape was crafted from remarkably clear crystal, elevating its elegance. Rather than a traditional paper label, the perfume's name was intricately acid etched onto the front panel, a rare and refined touch. The ground glass stopper, molded into a demi-lune shape, featured a stylized floral frieze, adding to its allure. 

This Deluxe Flacon held 1 2/3 ounces of Parfum, retailing for $10 in 1932—an extravagant price reflecting its luxury. Adjusted for inflation, this would equate to approximately $217.01 in 2024, underscoring its status as a high-end fragrance cherished by connoisseurs of fine perfumery.

Woman's Home Companion, 1933:

"Fernery at Twilight—Coty's newest odeur-—in dew-clear crystal, $10."

The New Yorker, 1936:

"Set out today... find your Coty perfume ... and more moments in your life will be dramatic moments! In the flacon of gleaming crystal ... Fernery at Twilight (La Fougeraie au Crepuscule) at $5, $10 and $20."

 

The packaging of "La Fougeraie au Crépuscule" exuded luxury and sophistication, featuring a stunning agate-like decoration that adorned the box. A special message on the back of the box, "Décor reproduction fougère d'Agathe - Or Gisements Impériaux du Japon," revealed that the intricate design was a reproduction of Fern Agate sourced from the Imperial Gold Mines of Japan, adding an exotic touch to the presentation. 

Additionally, both the containers and bottles proudly displayed the inscription: "La Fougeraie au Crepuscule Composition originale de Coty Paris — France," signifying that the fragrance was an original creation by Coty Paris in France, further emphasizing its pedigree and heritage in the world of perfumery.

1933 ad reads:

"Fernery at Twilight -Coty fragrance, a twilight poem rich, mysterious, scintillant is surely the gift for a treasured few on your holiday list Just in time for Christmas shoppers, it is presented at Joseph Horne's in a new size for $5.00, the same agate -like tasseled box, the same rare essence, but a more convenient price. Also at $10 and $20 sizes as well for all who wish them."

 

c1936 Petit Modele, created by Coty's own glassworks. Photo by ebay seller jessiecat

In 1936, Coty unveiled their Petit Modèle, a collection of miniature perfume bottles modeled after their deluxe counterparts.. These petite replicas maintained the exquisite design of the original bottles, crafted by Lalique, but were produced in-house at Coty's own glassworks. . This ensured that even in a smaller size, the essence of elegance and sophistication remained intact. The introduction of these mini bottles allowed perfume enthusiasts to indulge in their favorite fragrances in a more compact and portable form, without compromising on the luxurious experience that Coty was renowned for. In this case, the "briar" stoppered flacon was used for La Fougeraie au Crepuscule.

Product Line:

The product line for La Fougeraie au Crépuscule was diverse, offering a range of luxurious items to enhance one's beauty and bathing rituals. In addition to the exquisite parfum, it included face powder, bath salts, and possibly other indulgent products designed to envelop consumers in the fragrance's enchanting aura. This comprehensive line catered to individuals seeking a complete sensory experience, from the allure of the perfume to the pampering of bath salts, all infused with the captivating essence of La Fougeraie au Crépuscule.

Chemist & Druggist, 1933:

"The first of these new products is a series with the intriguing name La Fougeraie au Crepuscule (which we will leave our readers to translate for themselves); this is issued as perfume, powder, bath salts and so forth; the perfume is contained in a slide box with tassels and in a face powder in an equally distinctive box with with an "ebony" base and carved vermillion feet."

In the 1930s, Coty's La Fougeraie au Crépuscule scent extended to a face powder, packaged in an elegant faux shagreen paper-covered box with red bakelite feet. According to Harper's Bazaar, one variant, Rachel Nacre, offered a powder that appeared light and seemingly neutral at first glance. However, upon closer inspection, it revealed a subtle apricot hue, lending a flattering and radiant effect to the complexion. This delicate tint was noted for its ability to counteract sallowness, enhancing the wearer's natural beauty with a touch of understated elegance.

In 1932, this face powder was priced at $1.50. Adjusted for inflation, this would equate to approximately $32.55 in 2024. This enduringly reasonable price suggests that Coty's face powder has remained not only a timeless classic but also a consistently accessible luxury over the decades, appealing to a wide range of consumers seeking quality beauty products.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of La Fougeraie au Crépuscule appears to have occurred sometime after 1960, as evidenced by the absence of newspaper ads for the product thereafter. Today, this perfume has become a coveted collector's item, known for its scarcity on the market. Finding it with its original packaging is even more uncommon, adding to its allure and value among fragrance enthusiasts and collectors. Similarly, the face powder in this scent is considered a rare find, further contributing to its status as a sought-after vintage beauty item. Despite its discontinuation, La Fougeraie au Crépuscule continues to hold a special place in the hearts of those who appreciate its unique scent and historical significance in the world of perfumery.