Transport yourself to France in the year 1934, a time when the world was still reeling from the aftermath of the First World War and on the brink of another global conflict. In this era, the Western world held a fascination with exotic locales in the Far East, such as Bali and Japan. These places were often seen through a romanticized lens, imbued with notions of mystery, sensuality, and adventure.
In the collective imagination of the Western populace, Bali was depicted as a paradisiacal island shrouded in the allure of the unknown. It was envisioned as a land of lush tropical landscapes, pristine beaches, and enchanting cultural traditions. Bali symbolized a retreat from the constraints of Western civilization, a place where one could indulge in exotic pleasures and escape the mundane realities of everyday life.
Japan, on the other hand, evoked images of ancient traditions, refined aesthetics, and enigmatic beauty. It was viewed as a land of contrasts, where modernity coexisted with timeless customs. The allure of Japan lay in its mystique, its rich history, and its ability to captivate the imagination with its blend of tradition and innovation.
In the glamorous era of the 1930s, where fashion and allure reigned supreme, A'Suma by Coty emerged as a fragrance that captured the essence of opulence and adventure. Advertisements of the time painted a picture of a scent that transcended mere fashion, describing it as "even more opulent than the mode." A'Suma was likened to the sensuous allure of a siren's song, beckoning the wearer into a world of reckless abandon and mystery.
The descriptors used to characterize A'Suma were as rich and varied as the fragrance itself. It was portrayed as "reckless" and "strange," suggesting a boldness and uniqueness that set it apart from more conventional scents of the era. Yet, it was also described as "languorous" and "smoky," evoking images of lazy, hazy days spent in exotic locales, surrounded by the scent of incense and spices.
The perfume was touted as "luxurious" and "rich," promising a sensorial experience that indulged the senses and enveloped the wearer in decadence. Its allure was "intriguing" and "mysterious," hinting at hidden depths and secrets waiting to be discovered. A'Suma was portrayed as "sensuous" and "alluring," evoking images of moonlit beaches and tropical nights filled with passion and romance.
The imagery used to promote A'Suma further enhanced its exotic appeal. Described as "exotic as the South Seas" and "mysterious as moonlight," it promised to transport the wearer to far-off lands filled with adventure and intrigue. The scent was likened to a siren's song, captivating and irresistible, drawing the wearer into its spell.
Even the packaging of A'Suma was designed to evoke a sense of exoticism and luxury. Housed in an "amusing lacquered case paneled with Chinese Decor," it promised to be as visually captivating as it was sensorially delightful.
Overall, A'Suma by Coty was presented as a fragrance that embodied the spirit of its time – daring, alluring, and utterly individual. It promised to elevate the wearer above the mundane and transport them to a world of exotic beauty and sensual delights.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an semi-oriental floral fougere fragrance for women. It is a light and airy fern odor. Exotic top notes are included in this warm, piquant spicy perfume.
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, mint and Chinese camphor
- Middle notes: carnation, Tunisian orange blossom, French lavender, Omani incense, May rose, Grasse jasmine, tuberose and Dutch heliotrope
- Base notes: French labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, leather, Tyrolean oakmoss, Singapore patchouli, Mexican vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Tibetan civet, vetiver, patchouli, ambergris, Tonkin musk
Scent Profile:
Close your eyes and let the fragrance of A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise" whisk you away to the enchanting landscapes of Bali and Japan.
As you stand on a moonlit beach in Bali, the air is warm and fragrant with the scent of exotic blooms and spices. Inhale deeply, and the first thing that tickles your senses is the bright sparkle of Calabrian bergamot, a citrusy freshness that dances on the breeze. Mingling with it is the invigorating aroma of mint, cool and refreshing like a gentle sea breeze, while Chinese camphor adds a touch of crispness to the air, reminiscent of the lush foliage that surrounds you.
As you continue your olfactory journey, you're enveloped in a bouquet of floral delights. Carnation blooms in shades of crimson and pink, their spicy sweetness mingling with the heady aroma of Tunisian orange blossom and the delicate lavender fields of France. Omani incense swirls around you, its smoky tendrils carrying whispers of ancient rituals and spiritual reverence. May rose and Grasse jasmine add a velvety richness to the air, while tuberose and Dutch heliotrope lend their intoxicating sweetness to the mix.
Beneath it all, the base notes anchor the fragrance in a warm embrace. French labdanum exudes a resinous warmth, like golden sunlight filtering through the trees, while Mysore sandalwood adds a creamy smoothness to the air. Leather whispers of adventure and exploration, while Tyrolean oakmoss and Singapore patchouli evoke the earthy scents of the forest floor. Mexican vanilla and Venezuelan tonka bean lend a sweet, comforting touch, like the promise of a warm embrace after a long journey. Tibetan civet and Tonkin musk add an animalic sensuality to the blend, while vetiver and ambergris linger on the breeze, their woody notes mingling with the salty sea air.
As you open your eyes, you find yourself standing on a bridge in Japan, surrounded by cherry blossoms in full bloom. The air is filled with the delicate fragrance of springtime, mingling with the exotic spices and floral notes of A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise." With each breath, you're transported to a world of beauty, mystery, and sensual delight, where the scents of the East and West converge in perfect harmony.
Product Line:
A'Suma by Coty catered to a variety of preferences with its availability in different concentrations: parfum, cologne, and eau de toilette. Each concentration offered a unique olfactory experience, allowing individuals to choose the intensity and longevity of the fragrance according to their tastes and occasions.
The parfum concentration, often considered the most luxurious and long-lasting, would have provided an indulgent sensory experience. With a higher concentration of fragrance oils, A'Suma parfum would have enveloped the wearer in a rich and opulent aura, lingering on the skin for hours on end. Perfect for special occasions or evening wear, the parfum formulation would have offered a deeply satisfying and unforgettable olfactory journey.
For those seeking a lighter and more refreshing option, the cologne concentration would have been an ideal choice. With a lower concentration of fragrance oils compared to parfum, A'Suma cologne would have offered a subtle yet distinctive scent experience. Fresh and invigorating, it would have been perfect for daytime wear or for those who prefer a more understated fragrance presence.
Finally, the eau de toilette concentration would have provided a balanced middle ground between the richness of parfum and the freshness of cologne. Offering a moderate concentration of fragrance oils, A'Suma eau de toilette would have delivered a sophisticated and long-lasting scent experience without being overpowering. Versatile and suitable for everyday wear, it would have been a popular choice for those seeking a fragrance that seamlessly transitioned from day to night.
With its availability in different concentrations, A'Suma by Coty ensured that individuals could enjoy its captivating aroma in a way that best suited their personal style and preferences, making it a timeless and versatile fragrance for all occasions.
Bottles:
The A'Suma parfum, housed in a frosted glass sphere with a ball stopper, was truly a sight to behold. The bottle's design was a masterpiece crafted by François Coty himself, showcasing his keen eye for beauty and attention to detail. Decorated with molded chrysanthemum flowers, the bottle exuded an air of elegance and sophistication.
Although some may mistake it for a Lalique creation, the A'Suma bottle was a testament to Coty's own design prowess. Manufactured by Coty's own glassworks, it stood as a symbol of his commitment to excellence and innovation in every aspect of his fragrance empire.
In his quest for perfection, Coty sought the advice of Pierre Camin, a potential design hiree whose insights proved invaluable. During a three-hour interview, Coty carefully examined Camin's sketches, ultimately keeping one for future reference. Camin let it slip that he had known virtually nothing about bottles. Coty stated that "A bottle is for wine. Flask is the word we use here." Despite Camin's admission of limited knowledge about bottles, his astute observation during the interview left a lasting impression on Coty.
Knowing that the A'Suma flacon needed something else, and as a final test, Coty showed Camin a drawing of the round bottle, asking him his thoughts of the sketch. Camin succinctly replied that it needed "a pedestal". Coty, recognizing the brilliance of this suggestion, happily agreed and hired Camin on the spot.
Thus, the A'Suma bottle became not only a vessel for fragrance but also a work of art in its own right. With its exquisite design and attention to detail, it embodied Coty's vision of beauty and luxury, ensuring that A'Suma would captivate not only with its scent but also with its stunning presentation.
The smaller A'Suma bottle, sitting gracefully atop a black Bakelite pedestal, is a testament to both elegance and innovation. Its presentation box, adorned with Oriental motifs in black, gold, and red, transports the beholder to a realm of exotic beauty and luxury. The intricate detailing of Asian natural motifs adds a touch of authenticity and sophistication to the packaging, further enhancing the allure of the fragrance within.
Meanwhile, the deluxe size of A'Suma indulges the senses even before the bottle is opened. Nestled luxuriously on ivory satin within a case of red Moroccan leather, it exudes opulence and refinement. The contrast between the softness of the satin and the richness of the leather complements the fragrance's exotic and sensuous qualities, inviting the wearer to experience a world of indulgence and pleasure.
In every aspect, from the design of the bottle to the packaging of the fragrance, A'Suma embodies the essence of luxury and sophistication. Its presentation is a work of art in itself, elevating the experience of wearing the perfume to new heights of indulgence and extravagance.
The A'Suma Extrait (parfum) was available in a range of sizes, catering to different preferences and needs. Here's a breakdown of the various sizes along with their corresponding dimensions:
- 0.13 oz (Ref. No. 2200): Stands at 1.5" tall.
- 0.42 oz (Ref. No. 2201): Stands at 2" tall.
- 0.84 oz (Ref. No. 2202): Stands at 2 1/8" tall (or 2.25" tall).
- 1.45 oz (Ref. No. 2203): Stands at 3" tall.
- 1.68 oz: Stands at 4" tall.
- 3.36 oz: Stands at 4.25" tall.
Each size offers a different amount of fragrance, allowing customers to choose the one that best suits their usage and preferences. Whether it's a smaller size for travel or a larger size for daily use, there's an option available to accommodate every need.
In 1934, A'Suma parfum was priced at $10 when sold in the fancy Chinese decorated box. This option provided customers with an elegant presentation that reflected the exotic allure of the fragrance.
For those seeking an even more luxurious experience, A'Suma parfum was also available in a deluxe packaging option. Retailing for $35, this version came in a lavish red Moroccan leather box, adding an extra touch of opulence to the presentation of the fragrance.
These pricing options allowed customers to choose the level of luxury and sophistication that best suited their preferences and budget, ensuring that A'Suma was accessible to a range of consumers who desired a scent that embodied beauty, elegance, and exoticism.
1934 Coty A Suma perfume bottle and stopper in clear/frost glass, sealed, label, stand, box. 2 1/8 in. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction
1920s Coty A'Suma perfume bottle and stopper, frosted glass, box. Bottle 2 3/8 in. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction
c1930s A'Suma by Coty deluxe crystal perfume bottle with frosted stopper, brown patina, and embossed label, in fine condition, in its red fabric box with a yellow mirror mounted inside. Height 5 1/4 in. Photo by Mastro Auctions. This presentation was also used for Emeraude.
In 1934 and 1935, Coty's A'Suma perfume captured the imaginations of fragrance enthusiasts and fashionistas alike. Described as an exotic Oriental treasure, A'Suma beckoned wearers to indulge in dreams of far-off coral strands, hinting at its seductive allure and potential to ignite passion. Harper's Bazaar lauded A'Suma as a fragrance surpassing the opulence of contemporary fashion trends, likening its appeal to that of a siren's song. Available in two sizes, each housed in flower-embossed frosted glass spheres atop ebony and scarlet pedestals, A'Suma promised a sensory experience worthy of the most discerning clientele. The $10 version boasted an elegant octagonal gold and black lacquer-like case, while the deluxe $35 option luxuriated on ivory satin within a scarlet Moroccan leather case. The Delineator touted A'Suma as a potent catalyst for romance, advising wearers to apply it strategically to enhance their allure. The New Yorker painted a picture of A'Suma's presentation as a charming treasure, evoking images of elegance and splendor with its glass sphere resting regally on an ebony pedestal. Together, these excerpts paint a vivid portrait of A'Suma as a fragrance that captivated hearts and minds with its exotic aroma and exquisite presentation, embodying the epitome of luxury and sensuality in the 1930s perfume landscape.
The New Yorker, 1934:
"The veteran M. Coty has a new perfume called A Suma. An exotic little Oriental box holds a lush scent that makes you dream of going a bit too far on some coral strand or other. It should also be a help in finding a partner for your straying."
Harper's Bazaar, 1934:
"A fragrance even more opulent than the mode, "A Suma" by Coty has the sensuous allure of a siren's song. Ask for "A Suma" at the smart shops. "A Suma" is ready in two sizes - each a flower-embossed frosted glass sphere, pedestalled on ebony and scarlet. The $10 size boasts a handsome octagonal gold and black lacquer-like case, or $35, the deluxe size rests luxuriously on ivory satin, in a case of scarlet Morocco."
The Delineator, 1935:
"See what Coty's — "A Suma'' does to you. (It's in that morocco case.) A drop on the ear lobes, one on the nuque (that's the hair-line tip at the back of the neck) and a drop on your wrists will further almost any romance."
The New Yorker, 1935:
"Presented in a charming, lid -cover treasure box, Coty created A'Suma, the exciting, new European perfume sensation in a glass sphere that rests in splendor on an ebony pedestal."
"Presented in a charming, lid -cover treasure box, Coty created A'Suma, the exciting, new European perfume sensation in a glass sphere that rests in splendor on an ebony pedestal."
Fate of the Fragrance:
By 1957, the once-iconic A'Suma fragrance by Coty had been discontinued, marking the end of an era for this beloved scent. Despite its popularity during its time, the passage of years saw its eventual disappearance from perfume counters and shelves. Today, collectors and enthusiasts may come across vintage A'Suma bottles, but alas, many of these relics turn up empty, their precious contents long since depleted. Nevertheless, these bottles serve as tangible reminders of a bygone era, evoking nostalgia for a fragrance that once captivated hearts and minds with its exotic allure and luxurious aroma. Though A'Suma may no longer be readily available for purchase, its legacy lives on in the memories of those who were fortunate enough to experience its enchanting scent firsthand, preserving its place in the annals of perfume history.
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