The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.
The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.
Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.
The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.
The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.
Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral for women.. It starts with an aldehydic top, followed by a classic precious floral heart, layered over a sweet, balsamic and powdery base. A floral bouquet, a blend of jasmine and rose with a modern aldehydic top note and a warm background of musk and amber.
- Top notes: bergamot, neroli, peach, aldehydes, strawberry, cyclamen, hyacinth
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, carnation, orris, geranium, oriental rose absolute, orchid, Grasse jasmine absolute, Bulgarian rose, violet, and ylang-ylang.
- Base notes: patchouli, musk ambrette, ambergris, Siamese benzoin, Tolu, labdanum, Ethiopian civet, vetiver, Tibetan musk, Mexican vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean and Virginia cedar.
L'Origan made use of the base Iralia, an ionone that smells of iris and violet, and Dianthine, a synthetic reproduction of carnation.
Combat, 1955:
"L'Aimant (perfumed cologne by Coty) - rose, jasmine and lily of the valley, classic trio, to which an aldehyde gives a singular roundness. Perfume of good tone. It is made for these elegant women in the morning and late at night which bring infinite naturalness to the sentiments of convention."
Scent Profile:
As you inhale the fragrance of L'Aimant, transported back to the glamorous 1920s, the aldehydic top notes dance around you like a flurry of magnetic energy, enticing and invigorating. The scent of bergamot and neroli intertwines with the sweetness of peach and strawberry, reminiscent of a decadent cocktail at a lavish soirée. Aldehydes add a sparkling touch, like the crackle of electricity in the air, while cyclamen and hyacinth lend a floral freshness that feels as delicate as a silk scarf fluttering in the breeze.
Moving deeper into the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a classic precious floral bouquet that exudes elegance and grace. Lily of the valley and carnation mingle with the powdery allure of orris, creating a sensation akin to being enveloped in a bouquet of freshly-cut flowers. Geranium and oriental rose absolute add depth and richness, while orchid and Grasse jasmine absolute infuse the composition with a luxurious floral opulence that captivates the senses. Bulgarian rose, violet, and ylang-ylang contribute their own distinct aromas, weaving together a tapestry of floral beauty that is both timeless and enchanting.
As the fragrance gradually settles, you are embraced by a warm and comforting base that lingers on the skin like a gentle magnetic pull. Patchouli and musk ambrette create a sensual, earthy foundation, evoking the sensation of sinking into a plush velvet sofa. Ambergris and Siamese benzoin add a sweet, balsamic richness that feels luxurious and indulgent, while Tolu and labdanum lend a subtle smokiness that adds depth and complexity. Ethiopian civet and vetiver contribute a hint of exoticism, while Tibetan musk and Mexican vanilla impart a warm, creamy sweetness that envelops you like a cashmere blanket. Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, and Virginia cedar provide a final touch of sophistication, leaving a lasting impression that is as magnetic as it is unforgettable.
Personal Perfumes:
In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies embraced the notion that certain perfumes were better suited to women of particular complexions or hair colors, reflecting the prevailing attitudes of the time. It became customary for perfumers to suggest that blondes should opt for lighter scents, while brunettes were encouraged to wear heavier, Oriental perfumes. For blondes, fragrances like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or were recommended, while brunettes were advised to explore scents such as L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were directed towards fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.
However, not all perfume companies adhered to these guidelines. Some suggested that women choose their perfumes based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical appearance. These marketing techniques proved successful, leading to the purchase of thousands of bottles of perfume, perhaps by those seeking gifts for others or unsure of which perfumes suited them best.
For women embodying a sunny and joyous disposition, scents like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended. Those with a dreamy and elusive nature were directed towards fragrances such as Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc. Exotic types were advised to explore scents like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, while mysterious personalities were encouraged to try Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen. For individuals with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were deemed fitting choices.
Bottles:
L'Aimant was housed in numerous bottles over the years depending on what type concentration the fragrance was made: Parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Cologne, Eau de Toilette, or Eau de Parfum.
Some early bottles were made by Rene Lalique and Baccarat. But most bottles made after 1920 were made by Coty’s own glassworks in Pantin and his flacons were fitted with presentation cases made at his boxing factory in Neuilly.
Parfum Flacons:
The first bottles used were made for the Parfum (Extrait) and were made by Rene Lalique and Baccarat. Soon these proved to be too expensive for Coty to purchase, so he adapted the designs and had them made in his own glassworks in France, these bottles will be marked with "Coty France" on the base.
Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:
One of the first bottles used was the Rene Lalique designed bottle that featured the double moth frosted glass stopper. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances.
This bottle was also made by Baccarat in 1913, mold number 241. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25' tall.
This was later made by Coty's own glassworks and will be marked "Coty" on the base. The Coty marked bottle holds 1.6 oz of parfum and stands 3.25" tall, it was housed inside of a green leather covered box.
This bottle was adapted for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291. Look under the heading below titled "Crystal Bottle with Gilt Cap".
Roseraie Package:
In 1927, Coty brought out a pretty new packaging design for the moth stoppered bottle. The bottle was now housed in a box covered with a brown suede like effect. This presentation was used for the perfumes Emeraude, L'Origan, Paris and Chypre. Newspaper ads differed on how much the bottle actually held as I found 1 1/3 oz, 1 3/4 oz, and 1 1/2 oz being noted. Errors in ads were numerous at the time.
Metal Case Parfum Bottles:
A nice purse size bottle set was created and presented in a hinged platinum tone chrome metal case around 1928. The bottle used was the banded bottle with the frosted glass stopper. The case stands 2 3/4" tall. These containers were discontinued in 1933.
Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:
The bottle has an embossed band along the upper part and a frosted glass stopper molded with flowers and ridge details. People have mistakenly attributed this bottle to both Lalique and Baccarat, however, the bottle does not appear in either companies catalogs and was not one of their molds. It was made by Coty's own glassworks in France.
Bottles stand:
- 2.25" tall - 1/4 oz
- 2.75" tall - 1/2 oz
- 3.75" tall - 1 oz
- 3 oz bottle.
Etui a Cigarette Presentation:
Also introduced in 1927, was the Etui a Cigarette presentation. Bottle stands 3 1/8" tall and is molded with Coty France on the base as it was made at Coty's own glassworks. The idea was that the box could be later used to house cigarettes, long after the perfume was gone.
Louvre Parfum Flacon:
The "Louvre" parfum flacon made it's debut in 1929 and featured an arched shape with sloping shoulders and was fitted a frosted glass stopper with a molded stepped design. The bottle held 1 2/3 oz of Parfum and as you can see in the ad below, it was housed in a faux reptile skin covered presentation box. According to newspaper ads, the bottle was still being used in 1930 for Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, and La Jacee. But I have seen this bottle with L'Aimant labels too. This flacon isn't exactly "new" as it was advertised as it appears to be the "Lilas Pourpre" flacon made by Rene Lalique first used for Coty's Lilas Pourpre perfume in 1911.
Crystal Bottles with Gilt Cap:
In 1928, flat, square shaped crystal bottles with inner glass stoppers and gilt brass caps were available in French leather cases for travel. These bottles held Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre and Paris. I have seen these bottles with L'Aimant labels too.
Crystal Octagonal L'Aimant Flacon:
In 1928, L'Aimant parfum was presented in a heavy eight sided crystal flacon with clear label on front was available in three sizes: one ounce, two ounces, and three ounces. Gilt brass cap with enameled bands hides an inner glass stopper. The two ounce bottle stands 2 7/8" tall. The bottle was presented in a box covered with paper imitating a shagreen pattern in shades of red, pink, gold and coral.
Cathedral Flacon for Parfum:
In 1930, a newspaper ad for Gimbel's claimed that a special bottle dubbed the "Cathedral", was designed and created exclusively for them to hold Coty's extracts of L'Aimant, Emeraude, Styx, L'Origan, La Jacee, Chypre, Muguet, L'Or, L'Effleurt, Lilas, La Rose Jacqueminot and Paris. The claim however, was untrue as I found other newspaper ads from other stores such as LS Ayres using the same bottle also claiming it was their "special" bottle too. This was just a special edition bottle, not made expressly for any one store. The modernistic bottle came in two sizes: 1 oz and 1 2/3 oz.
The Cathedral bottle originally had a glass stopper, but by 1934, this bottle was later changed to have a plastic screw cap and made in different sizes. Also the Cathedral shape was adapted for use for other products in the line such as bath salts.
Arched Crystal Flacon:
Also in 1930 another perfume bottle was introduced, it was a nice flat, arched shaped crystal flacon, very Art Deco, with a stepped glass stopper. It was available in two sizes: 1 oz and 1 5/8 oz. For the perfumes: Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Rose, La Jacee, L'Effleurt, Chypre, Paris, Styx, and L'Or. The bottle design was discontinued in 1937. This is pretty hard to find, I have only seen it once.
The "Heliotrope" flacon, also known as "Coty Perfume No. 14" was first made by Rene Lalique in 1911 for the Coty perfume Heliotrope. It is roughly a triangular shape with canted corners along the bottom. The bottle was used for various Coty fragrances: Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Styx, Chypre, Muguet, Jacinthe, Jasmin de Corse, La Rose Jacqueminot, and Paris.
Metal Flip Top Case Purse Flacon:
In 1934, a purse flacon debuted in a new gold tone metal case (usually the goldtone has worn off). This case replaced the old coffin style that was used in the 1920s and early 1930s. The new case was rectangular in shape and had a strip of black bakelite covering the flip top lid. It has a hinge on the left side and a deep red tab on the right which, when pressed, opens the top to get to the perfume bottle inside. The front of the case features the engraved Coty logo. The size of the case is approx. 2.5" tall x 1-3/8" wide x 5/8" thick.
The bottle is quite plain and is of clear glass and resembled the earlier banded style flacon. The stopper is molded with a stylized floral design. The base of the bottle is molded with Coty and was made in Coty's own glassworks. The bottle holds 1/4 oz of parfum. You can find this in Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan and possibly others.
Yellow Mimosa Print Packaging:
In 1935, the Coty floral parfums were packaged in new limited edition ensembles featuring mimosa prints on yellow backgrounds. The following perfumes were included: Muguet, Oeillet France, La Rose Jacqueminot, Lilas Pourpre, and Violette Pourpre. Eventually, the other Coty perfumes were added to the packaging design such as Emeraude, L'Aimant, and L'Origan.
Peacock Presentation:
Debuting in 1935, the "Peacock Presentation" featured a peacock feather design on the packaging and stylized peacock eye motifs on the bottles. The bottles came in three sizes: purse, travel and boudoir. The fragrances represented were: Chypre, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Paris, Emeraude, Ambreine. By 1937, Emeraude and Ambreine were no longer offered in this line as you can see from the 1937/1938 catalog image below.
Obelisque Flacon:
The "Obelisque" flacon is a tall, slender bottle topped by a flat, square frosted glass stopper molded with stylized foliate motifs with the name COTY molded in each corner. This bottle made it's debut in 1935. It was available in the following fragrances: Paris, Emeraude, L'Aimant, and L'Origan.
Purser Flacon:
Gold-tone case holds a glass bottle and has a green plastic cap and base. It appeared in the 1937/1938 Coty catalog.
In 1957, Coty introduced new sizes and forms of L'Aimant — including something very special for real L'Aimant lovers — a giant 16-ounce elaborately packaged bottle of perfume that can be "custom" ordered for $225.00 (plus tax).
Fate of the Fragrance:
L'Aimant has been discontinued, date unknown.
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