Complice de Francois Coty c1973

In 1934, Francois Coty conceived Complice ('Accomplice'), a fragrance ahead of its time. However, fate intervened as Coty passed away before his creation could grace the market. For nearly four decades, Complice lay dormant, waiting for its moment to shine. In 1973, the Coty company finally unveiled this long-awaited gem, encased in a bottle echoing the design aesthetics of its inception era. The journey of Complice is one of perseverance and legacy, with its name officially trademarked in 1939, a testament to the company's assertion of its use since 1938.

In a masterful stroke of homage and revitalization, the Coty perfume company embarked on a journey to resurrect the illustrious legacy of its founder in the realm of perfumery. With the relaunch of Complice, Coty sought to reintroduce a touch of the glamour and sophistication for which the brand had long been celebrated.

The revival of Complice was more than just a reintroduction of a fragrance; it was a strategic move to elevate the Coty brand back to its esteemed position among high-end perfumes. By imbuing the presentation with elegance and refinement, Coty aimed to dispel any notion of its products being confined to the shelves of drugstores and discount shops. The meticulously designed bottles, reminiscent of the exquisite creations of the legendary Rene Lalique, served as a visual testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that defined Coty's perfumes.

In embracing the aesthetic sensibilities of Lalique, Coty reaffirmed the notion that perfume was not merely a commodity but a form of art. The intricate designs of the bottles mirrored the intricacies of the fragrances they contained, each element meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication.

With Complice, Coty invited the world to rediscover the allure of perfume as a symbol of elegance and indulgence. The relaunch was a statement of Coty's enduring commitment to excellence and innovation in the realm of fragrance, ensuring that its founder's legacy would continue to shine brightly in the annals of perfumery history.

Against this backdrop, the decision by Coty to revive Complice after 40 years takes on a deeper significance. Complice represented more than just a fragrance; it was a connection to a bygone era of elegance and refinement, a reminder of a time when glamour reigned supreme.

The release of Complice in 1973 was not merely a commercial decision but also a symbolic one. It was a testament to Coty's enduring legacy and commitment to craftsmanship. By unveiling a fragrance that had been conceived decades earlier but never brought to fruition, Coty was paying homage to its own history while simultaneously tapping into the zeitgeist of nostalgia that permeated the cultural landscape.

The journey of Complice from conception to launch is indeed one of perseverance and legacy. It speaks to the enduring allure of fragrance as a form of art and expression, transcending time and trends. As Complice finally graced the market in its meticulously designed bottle, it brought with it a sense of anticipation and excitement, capturing the imagination of a new generation eager to embrace the glamour of the past.

It was reported in a 1975 newspaper blurb that "nostalgia for the Twenties has just made Coty revive its old-timer, "Complice," which was less risky than launching a new perfume, as well as much cheaper. This nostalgia may yet lead to a perfume revival. If the fad for the romantic and exotic is not too short-lived, it may enable the industry to regain lost ground."

In a fascinating turn of events reported in a 1975 newspaper snippet, Coty, the renowned perfume house, responded to the prevailing nostalgia for the Roaring Twenties by breathing new life into an old classic: "Complice." This strategic move was not only less risky but also more economical than launching a completely new fragrance. It seemed that the zeitgeist of nostalgia might just herald a renaissance in the perfume industry.

It's widely believed that this "Complice" revival refers to the iconic Coty fragrance "Accomplice." The original formulation of  Accomplice, dating back to 1934, was attributed to the visionary Francois Coty himself. Despite its inception before Coty's passing, Accomplice remained shelved for over four decades until its resurrection. It's rumored that Coty's original notes served as the foundation for Complice's composition. However, to cater to contemporary tastes and capture a new audience, modern ingredients were ingeniously incorporated, breathing fresh life into this timeless fragrance.

Notably, even Coty's design for the perfume bottle, with its exquisite Lalique-inspired frosted crystal stopper, was meticulously replicated, preserving the essence of its historical allure. This blend of heritage and innovation promised a compelling olfactory experience, inviting consumers around the globe to indulge in a fragrant journey through time.

Launch:

At the grand launch of Complice in France, which took place in late 1974, Coty spared no expense in selecting the perfect venue: the illustrious Chateau d'Artigny, nestled just outside Paris. This enchanting estate held particular significance, as it had once been owned by none other than Francois Coty himself, infusing the event with an extra layer of historical resonance and prestige.

For the Australian debut of Complice in 1975, the equally opulent Hilton Hotel in Sydney was chosen as the setting for this momentous occasion. Eager guests were treated to a luxurious experience reminiscent of the bygone era of Parisian glamour.

The festivities had commenced with a lavish champagne breakfast, transporting attendees to the romantic ambiance of a Parisian cafe. The culinary spread featured an array of delectable treats, including scrumptious pastries meticulously crafted to tantalize the taste buds. Guests savored the sweetness of flaky croissants, indulged in buttery pains au chocolat, and relished the delicate flavors of assorted slices of juicy melons, each bite a symphony of flavors evoking the essence of French elegance and sophistication.

Against the backdrop of the Hilton Hotel's elegant surroundings, attendees reveled in the sensory delights of Complice, immersing themselves in its captivating aroma while basking in the timeless allure of luxury and refinement. The launch of Complice was not merely an introduction of a fragrance; it was a celebration of artistry, heritage, and the enduring legacy of Coty's visionary spirit.

Glyndebourne Festival Opera, 1977:

"Complice, conceived by Francois Coty. A perfume decades ahead of its time, a fragrance orchestrated in a thousand tones, an infinity of textures. And pronounced, by acclaim, the fragrance of the century Complice de Francois Coty."

Cosmopolitan, 1978:

"Very elegant, very feminine, totally seductive...that's Coty's Complice de François Coty (he was the legendary perfumer who founded the famous House of Coty). The scent is a delectable fusion of floral notes underscored with rich, earthy tones of moss and spices...opulent, alluring, yet fresh and young and rather frisky! One ounce, $70."

A 1979 advertisement in the Reading Eagle newspaper reads:

“A THRILLING NEW FRAGRANCE COMPLICE DE FRANCOIS COTY. A fragrance so exquisite and timeless, it will ride above the changing tides of fashion. Inspired by the legendary Francois Coty and imported from France, for a discerning few. It is a poetic profusion of floral notes with moss and spicy woods…flawlessly feminine and becoming to any woman. Give Complice for Mother’s Day in many ways…Parfum $25-$70, Eau de Toilette (non aerosol sprays) $12.50 -$16, Parfume Soap 3 cakes plus soap case $16.00.”

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women,  It begins with a spicy aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, layered over a warm, woody base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, marigold, bergamot oil, orange blossom, peach, spice oils, neroli
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, reseda, magnolia, carnation,  jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, rose
• Base notes: orris, wormwood, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan civet, Indian musk, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood and vetiver

 

Scent Profile:

Close your eyes and inhale deeply as the fragrance of Complice envelops your senses, each note unfolding like a delicate petal unfurls in a blossoming garden.

As you take your first breath, the spicy aldehydic top notes dance upon your skin, a vibrant burst of energy that tingles with anticipation. The sharpness of hyacinth and marigold intertwines with the zesty freshness of bergamot oil and orange blossom, teasing your nostrils with their invigorating presence. A hint of peach adds a subtle sweetness, while a medley of spice oils and neroli adds depth and complexity, igniting a fiery warmth that awakens the senses.

Now, let your imagination drift to a tranquil meadow, where the heart of Complice reveals its exquisite floral bouquet. Ylang ylang exudes its intoxicating aroma, mingling with the softness of reseda and the creamy richness of magnolia. Carnation and jasmine lend their sensual allure, while lilac and lily of the valley evoke memories of a springtime breeze. Narcissus and rose add a timeless elegance, their delicate fragrances intertwining to create a symphony of floral perfection.

As the fragrance settles into your skin, the warm, woody base notes emerge, grounding you in a comforting embrace. Orris root lends a powdery sweetness, while the bitterness of wormwood adds an intriguing contrast. Siamese benzoin and Tibetan civet impart a sensual warmth, their exotic aromas swirling together with Indian musk to create an intoxicating allure. Oakmoss adds a touch of earthiness, while Mysore sandalwood and vetiver provide a lingering richness that caresses your senses long after the initial impression fades.

With each inhale, Complice reveals new depths of complexity, inviting you on a journey of olfactory discovery that captivates the mind and stirs the soul. This aldehydic floral masterpiece is more than just a fragrance; it's a sensory experience that transports you to a world of timeless beauty and exquisite indulgence.

Bottle:

Imagine holding in your hands a piece of exquisite craftsmanship, a testament to the timeless elegance of the Art Nouveau era. The bottle of Complice, designed by the renowned Pierre Dinand, is a true work of art, evoking the spirit of a bygone era with its graceful curves and intricate details.

Crafted from clear crystal, the bottle itself is a study in elegance, its smooth surface reflecting the light with a mesmerizing brilliance. But it is the stopper that truly captivates the eye, an abstract flower rendered in molded frosted glass. The delicate frosted texture adds a touch of softness to the design, reminiscent of a morning frost glistening on petals.

Though crafted by Coty's own glassworks, the bottle bears a striking resemblance to the iconic creations of Rene Lalique, the master glassmaker of the Art Nouveau period. The stopper, in particular, pays homage to Lalique's ornate Tiara stoppered flacons, which graced dressing tables in the early 20th century with their ethereal beauty.

Even the label adorning the bottle speaks to Lalique's influence, with gilded embossing and lettering that harkens back to the style of labels first designed by Rene Lalique for Coty himself. Each detail, from the elegant script to the intricate patterns, is a nod to the rich heritage of both Coty and Lalique, intertwining their legacies in a harmonious union of artistry and craftsmanship.

But the beauty of Complice doesn't end with the bottle alone. The packaging is equally enchanting, with an embossed design of leaves in cream on white, reminiscent of a lush garden in bloom. Every aspect of Complice, from its bottle to its packaging, is a celebration of beauty and sophistication, inviting you to experience the allure of a bygone era with every spray.

If your classic Complice bottle is missing its box or label and you are unsure of the size, my handy guide below will help you determine what capacity the bottle holds.

• 0.1 oz Parfum miniature bottle stands 1.5" tall and has a plastic floral stopper.
• 0.25 oz Parfum  bottle stands 2.25" tall.
• 0.5 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 1 oz Parfum bottle stands 3.25" tall.
• 2 oz Parfum bottle stands 4" tall.
• 9.5 oz Factice (dummy bottle filled with colored water)

Complice Catalog/Inventory Numbers, I will add more as I find them:

• 533.06 - 0.1 oz Parfum miniature  
•              - 0.16 oz Parfum Purse Spray (Parfum, pour le sac)
• 133.06 - 0.16 oz Parfum Purse Spray Refill (Parfum, pour le sac)
• 183.06 - 0.25 oz Parfum  
• 184.06 - 0.5 oz Parfum
• 185.06 - 1 oz Parfum
• 186.06 - 2 oz Parfum
•             - 4 oz Parfum
• 500.06 - 0.25 oz Eau de Toilette miniature
• 189.06  - 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
•              - 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 190.06  - 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 127.06 - 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 128.06 - 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 129.06 - 8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
•             - Bath Soap
•             - Bath Soap (package of three)
•             - Talc

Fate of the Fragrance:

 I believe that Complice was discontinued around 1990, it is possible to find bottles of the perfume and the eau de toilettes, but because of their scarcity, the prices can be exorbitant.