Lilas Pourpre by Coty c1911

In 1911, the renowned perfumer François Coty unveiled the exquisite fragrance Le Lilas Pourpre.

The Romanov Grand Duchesses had a particular fondness for the floral scents crafted by the French house of Coty. Among them, Anastasia was captivated by the delicate notes of La Violette Pourpre, while Olga cherished the elegant aroma of La Rose Jacqueminot. Tatiana had a penchant for the exotic scent of Jasmin de Corse, and Maria's favorite was the enchanting Le Lilas Pourpre. These fragrances became a signature part of their refined and sophisticated personas, highlighting their individual preferences and styles.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. Coty described it as "Combined scents of flower and leaf smelled in a bouquet."

•  Top notes: aldehydes, Dutch hyacinth, jonquil, French lilac, Egyptian geranium, Lebanese cassie, Grasse reseda, Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: Comoros ylang ylang, Grasse rose, Indian tuberose, Grasse jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom, French carnation, Alpine lily of the valley
• Base notes: benzoin, Mexican vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Tibetan musk, Grasse heliotrope, Abyssinian civet, Mysore sandalwood, Zanzibar clove, South Seas ambergris

Scent Profile:

Imagine opening a delicate bottle of Le Lilas Pourpre and being transported into a garden in full bloom. As the scent unfolds, the top notes greet you first.

The initial application introduces you to a burst of aldehydes, which provide a crisp, airy sensation like the first breath of morning air. This is swiftly followed by the lush, green essence of Dutch hyacinth and the sweet, powdery aroma of French lilac. Egyptian geranium adds a touch of rosy, slightly lemony freshness, while Lebanese cassie and Grasse reseda contribute a hint of green spice and mild earthiness. A whisper of Calabrian bergamot rounds out this opening bouquet, offering a zesty, citrus lift.

As the top notes gently fade, the heart of the fragrance begins to bloom. The sensual, creamy ylang ylang from the Comoros Islands mingles with the classic, romantic scent of rose from Grasse, creating a rich and opulent floral heart. The intoxicating Indian tuberose and exotic Grasse jasmine add layers of sweet, heady depth. Orange blossom from Tunisia introduces a bright, slightly bitter note, balancing the composition with a touch of citrus. French carnation's spicy, clove-like nuance and the delicate, fresh scent of lily of the valley from the Alpine mountains complete this intricate floral tapestry.

As the day progresses, the base notes reveal themselves, grounding the fragrance with warmth and complexity. The comforting sweetness of Mexican vanilla and the rich, almond-like tonka bean from Venezuela create a luscious, gourmand undertone. Genuine Tibetan musk adds a sensual, skin-like softness, while Grasse heliotrope's powdery vanilla-almond scent lends a nostalgic touch. The presence of Abyssinian civet introduces an animalic depth, adding a touch of exoticism. Sandalwood from Mysore's creamy, woody aroma intertwines with the spicy warmth of Zanzibar clove, and the rich, marine notes of ambergris from the South Seas provide an almost mystical finish.

Each layer of Le Lilas Pourpre tells a story, from the fresh, invigorating top notes to the lush, opulent heart, and finally to the warm, comforting base. This floral oriental fragrance envelops you in a luxurious and sophisticated aura, capturing the essence of a garden in full bloom, experienced through the exquisite craftsmanship of François Coty.

"Coty is a new house, very active, with a Purple lilac, for example, at $2.50 the smallest bottle, which seems to me the best lilac in Paris, excepting perhaps, Rigaud's. It is true that lilac is unextractable from the flower, and us a synthetic product. Nevertheless the Coty  Purple is pure, fresh, delicious and it does not alter. The most popular Coty success has been his "Origan," in which dominates, miraculously refined, our old liniment or plaster friend origanum, a  sort of wild marjoram, but dressed up with discreet half-tone scents, until you have an extremely penetrating, sweet, and troubling perfume, very taking, very tempting, but not, perhaps, of the utterly distinguished good taste which is the final word of a great perfume. Coty's "Ambre Antique" and "Idylle" approach nearer. Coty's "Rose Jacqueminot" has also great sale."

This newspaper article from 1913 describes Coty as a relatively new, yet highly dynamic perfumery house, and has quickly established a reputation for creating exquisite fragrances. Among their offerings, the Lilas Pourpre stands out for its exceptional quality. Priced at $2.50 for the smallest bottle, this scent is regarded as the finest lilac in Paris, second only to Rigaud's. While it's true that lilac cannot be naturally extracted from the flower and must be synthetically produced, Coty's Lilas Pourpre manages to capture an impressively authentic and delightful aroma. The article describes it as being pure, fresh, and delicious, and remarkably, it retains its integrity without alteration over time.

They also mention that the pinnacle of Coty's success is undoubtedly the fragrance "L'Origan." This scent showcases the house's ability to transform a humble ingredient into something extraordinary. Origanum, also known as wild marjoram, not normally used in perfumery at the time, was traditionally associated with medicinal liniments and plasters. Coty, however, refines this robust note with a blend of discreet, "half-tone scents," resulting in a perfume that is both sweet and deeply penetrating. The transformation is so profound that the fragrance becomes alluring and tempting, although, according to the article, it may lack the ultimate refined elegance that epitomizes the highest echelon of perfumery.

In the writer's opinion, in addition to "Origan," Coty's "Ambre Antique" and "Idylle" approach closer to the pinnacle of distinguished good taste. These fragrances demonstrate a nuanced complexity and a sophisticated balance that make them stand out. "Ambre Antique" offers a rich, warm blend of amber notes, while "Idylle" might present a more romantic and ethereal bouquet.

Another noteworthy creation from Coty is "Rose Jacqueminot," which at that time was enjoying significant popularity. This fragrance features the timeless and beloved scent of roses, capturing the delicate and romantic essence that appeals to many.

Overall, Coty's range of fragrances highlights their innovative approach and commitment to quality. Each scent tells a unique story, from the fresh and authentic Lilas Pourpre to the complex and alluring "Origan," and the sophisticated "Ambre Antique" and "Idylle." Through these creations, Coty continues to make a significant impact in the world of perfumery.

 

Bottles:

This guide is dedicated to the René Lalique Model No. Coty-Perfume-2, circa 1910. René Lalique originally designed this exquisite flacon in 1910, with production later taken over by Coty's own glassworks after 1920. The bottle itself is crafted from clear glass and features a distinctive truncated triangular shape with a rectangular base. A standout feature is the frosted glass stopper, elegantly molded with a fish scale motif.

This unique bottle was exclusively available in one size, standing approximately 6.5 cm tall.

Authentic René Lalique bottles can be identified by the intaglio molded "long-tail L" Lalique signatures on the base. These genuine Lalique bottles were produced approximately between 1911 and 1918/1919. After this period, production shifted to Coty's own glassworks, resulting in bottles that may be unsigned or marked with molded or acid-stamped "Coty" insignias.

This distinction is crucial, as it provides a straightforward method to differentiate between bottles made by René Lalique and those produced later by Coty. Understanding this difference is important, especially when encountering auctions and sales where sellers or auction houses may erroneously claim that the bottles are original René Lalique creations. 

The bottle was also used for Grands Magasins Du Louvre's perfume, Oeillet. RLALIQUE.COM reports that "Sometime beginning in the period 1914-1919 it was also used for Louvre's Lilas however the intaglio Lalique signature was removed from the underside and the name on the label was changed from Lilas Pourpre Coty to Lilas Louvre Paris. It may also have been used (unsigned) for other Louvre fragrances and possibly (unsigned) for other retailers as well."

Other bottles used for Lilas Pourpre, include those manufactured by Coty's own glassworks.

Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:

Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon below:

 

Also found in the Yellow Mimosa Print Packaging in the 1930s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Despite its age, Lilas Pourpre, an early fragrance by Coty, continued to be sold as late as 1935, showcasing its enduring popularity and longevity in the perfume market. However, has been out of production for many decades, making it increasingly rare to come across examples of this scent. Among collectors, the René Lalique versions of Lilas Pourpre are particularly sought after compared to those produced by Coty. The Lalique examples hold a special allure due to their craftsmanship and association with the renowned glass artist, adding an extra layer of desirability for fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike. As time goes on, the scarcity of both the fragrance and its Lalique bottles only adds to their collectible appeal, making them prized possessions for those fortunate enough to acquire them.