L'Or by Coty c1912

In 1912, François Coty introduced L’Or, a fragrance whose very name evokes luxury, opulence, and timeless beauty. In French, L’Or (pronounced “lor”) translates to "gold," a metal that has symbolized wealth, power, and divinity across civilizations. Choosing gold as the inspiration for a perfume suggests an aspiration to create something precious, radiant, and enduring—a scent that would embody the same timeless allure as the coveted metal itself. Gold is luminous yet untouchable, rich yet weightless, making it a fitting muse for a fragrance meant to feel both lavish and ethereal.

The name L’Or would have immediately captivated the women of 1912, conjuring images of gilded salons, intricately beaded gowns, and the shimmering glow of candlelight on satin gloves. It was an era of grandeur and transformation, as the Belle Époque reached its twilight. This was a time of extraordinary artistic and cultural achievements—Paris was the epicenter of fashion, art, and innovation, where the haute bourgeoisie indulged in the finest luxuries. Women were beginning to assert their independence, embracing a newfound sense of modernity while still reveling in the romantic excesses of the past.

Fashion in 1912 was evolving rapidly. The corseted hourglass silhouette of the previous decades was loosening, giving way to more fluid and elongated lines inspired by Paul Poiret and the Orientalist craze. Rich fabrics, intricate embroidery, and exotic embellishments were highly sought after, mirroring the sumptuous, spicy florals of perfumes like L’Or and its near twin, L’Origan (1905). The fascination with the East, opulence, and sensuality played directly into the appeal of Coty’s fragrance, which blended floral and tobacco notes in a composition that felt both seductive and refined.

 

 

Women of the time would have interpreted L’Or as a fragrance of mystery and indulgence, its name alone suggesting something precious and rare. The oriental classification was still novel in perfumery, and L’Or fell in line with the growing trend of rich, warm, and exotic compositions that challenged the dominance of pure florals and delicate colognes. The inclusion of tobacco notes gave the perfume a bold, modern edge, aligning with the increasing visibility of women who smoked in public, attended the theater unchaperoned, and embraced a more liberated lifestyle.

In scent, L’Or would have translated gold into fragrance through a warm, luminous floral bouquet enriched by the deep, velvety smokiness of tobacco. The reference to L’Origan suggests a soft spiciness, likely featuring notes of carnation, amber, and vanilla, which would have imparted a feeling of sensual warmth and powdery sophistication. This was not a perfume of lighthearted innocence, but rather one of graceful decadence—a scent for a woman who understood the allure of gilded excess and whispered intrigue.

In the context of perfumery at the time, L’Or was not entirely unprecedented but was part of a larger movement toward richer, more luxurious fragrances. The early 20th century saw the rise of oriental and spicy floral scents, reflecting society’s growing fascination with exoticism and the opulent fantasies of the East. In this way, L’Or was both a continuation of the trends set by fragrances like L’Origan and a precursor to the grander, more dramatic perfumes that would dominate the 1920s.

Ultimately, Coty’s L’Or was more than just a fragrance—it was an embodiment of a golden age, a tribute to beauty, refinement, and the intoxicating dream of luxury.

A Startling Halt:

During the First World War, the flow of Coty products from France to the United States came to an abrupt halt, disrupting the supply chain and leaving American retailers with only existing stock to offer consumers. Despite the war's end in 1918, the resumption of regular importations to America was not realized until 1921, as evidenced by newspaper advertisements from the period. In contrast, distribution to France and Italy remained relatively unaffected, a phenomenon that may be attributed to the intricate processes involved in sourcing and importing raw materials, as well as potential challenges related to bottle availability. Meanwhile, the impact of the war reverberated across the luxury craftsmanship landscape, leading to the closure of Lalique's initial factory. However, a new chapter began with the commencement of construction on a new facility in Wingen-sur-Moder, Alsace, during WWI. Completed in 1921, this factory continues to produce Lalique crystal, showcasing resilience and continuity in the face of adversity.

Once production resumed and the turbulent waters of war settled, L'Or emerged once again, gracing the shelves of perfumeries and boutiques with its timeless allure and sophistication. The reintroduction of this iconic fragrance marked a return to elegance and luxury, capturing the hearts and imaginations of perfume enthusiasts around the world. With its exquisite aroma and elegant presentation, L'Or reclaimed its status as a symbol of opulence and refinement, serving as a testament to the enduring appeal of classic fragrances.

As described in The Times Herald in 1925, L'Or was depicted as a fragrance that embodied the essence of desire and ambition, evoking images of "gilt sailed argosies" and "the golden blonde of sunset hair and eyes." Its allure was not merely in its scent but in its ability to transport one to a realm of fantasy and aspiration, where dreams were limitless and desires boundless. The perfume's ability to infuse even cigarettes with its delicate fragrance speaks to its versatility and allure, captivating the senses and inspiring high endeavors.

The Times Herald, 1925:

"L'Or: the golden lure of strange quests; gilt sailed argosies with high prows breasting the foam of unknown seas toward the gal of all desires. Leaping, glowing soul of flames; subtle fragrance of the golden blonde of sunset hair and eyes, symbol of the unquenchable dream within the hearts of men, alluring, inspiring to high endeavor. It is an exquisite perfume for cigarettes. A few drops on a bit of silk kept in the box gives them a delicate, fascinating balminess, breathing out in smoke, the fragrance of her it expresses."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original 1912 version is classified as an oriental fragrance for women and was according to a 1913 ad "very similar to L'Origan". It had notes of flowers and tobacco.

• Top notes: Sicilian lemon, Persian galbanum, Calabrian bergamot, Dutch lilac, Italian neroli, Grasse heliotrope
• Middle notes: Grasse mimosa, Florentine iris, Grasse rose, Japanese honeysuckle, Grasse jasmine, Dutch hyacinth, Parma violet, spices, Maltese labdanum, Tunisian orange blossom
• Base notes: Tonkin musk, Virginia cedar, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Italian orris, Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, Ethiopian civet, Mexican vanilla, Virginia tobacco, Siamese benzoin

A 1923 ad states that L'Or is a "Glowing, vivid heart of flames, perfume of golden blondes of irresistible charm."

Scent Profile:

The opening of L’Or unfolds like a golden sunrise over a Mediterranean landscape, its top notes bursting with citrus, floral, and green facets that feel both radiant and invigorating. Sicilian lemon, bright and tart, carries a sunlit sharpness that cuts through the air like the first crisp breath of morning. From Persia, galbanum exudes an intense green sharpness, resinous and slightly bitter, evoking the scent of crushed stems and damp earth. 

This is counterbalanced by Calabrian bergamot, sweeter and more refined than its Sicilian counterpart, lending a soft, floral citrus nuance that smooths the sharper edges. The floral introduction is softened by the Dutch lilac, powdery and delicately sweet, reminiscent of springtime gardens heavy with bloom. Italian neroli, distilled from the bitter orange blossom, adds a luminous, honeyed brightness with a slight green edge, while Grasse heliotrope brings a creamy, almond-like warmth, its vanillic undertone already hinting at the richness to come.

As L’Or deepens into its heart, the fragrance takes on an opulent, velvety texture, where the world’s most coveted florals weave a tapestry of luxury and romance. The Grasse mimosa, with its fluffy golden clusters, exudes a soft, powdery sweetness tinged with honey and anise, a perfect harmony with the Florentine iris, which lends an elegant, buttery richness that is both earthy and cool. The Grasse rose, cultivated in the legendary flower fields of France, is voluptuous and complex, unfolding in waves of fresh petals, warm spice, and a faint touch of tea. This interplay is enhanced by the Japanese honeysuckle, a deeply narcotic floral with honeyed undertones that adds a luminous sensuality. 

The Grasse jasmine, the most exquisite variety, fills the heart with an intoxicating depth—indolic, creamy, and almost animalic in its richness. Dutch hyacinth, fresh and dewy, contributes a cool, green floral contrast, tempering the weight of the heavier blooms. Parma violet, with its powdery, candied sweetness, whispers of nostalgia and delicate femininity, balancing the boldness of the other florals. Spices flicker through this floral symphony, adding depth and intrigue—warm and slightly smoky, they lace the bouquet with an exotic mystery. From Malta, labdanum introduces a resinous warmth, thick and ambery, wrapping the florals in an embrace of balsamic richness. The final note of the heart, Tunisian orange blossom, glows with a luminous, honeyed sweetness, its heady narcotic scent blooming under the warmth of the skin.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge like the burnished glow of aged gold, rich, warm, and deeply sensual. Tonkin musk, legendary for its soft animalic warmth, imbues the scent with a velvety, almost tactile quality, while the Virginia cedar provides a dry, resinous woodiness that anchors the composition. 

The prized Mysore sandalwood, creamy and sumptuous, melts into the skin with its warm, almost milky aroma, intertwining with the salty-sweet sensuality of ambergris, a rare treasure from the sea. The Italian orris, distilled from the roots of the iris flower, contributes a powdery, suede-like elegance, its luxurious earthiness lingering on the skin like a whisper of vintage velvet. Indonesian patchouli, dark and mysterious, adds an earthy depth with a touch of camphoraceous spice, blending seamlessly with Haitian vetiver, whose smoky, grassy, and slightly nutty facets lend a grounding warmth. 

The fragrance is further softened by Venezuelan tonka bean, rich with vanilla, almond, and tobacco-like nuances, providing a golden, almost edible warmth. Ethiopian civet, with its raw, musky intensity, enhances the sensuality of the composition, blending into the deep, smoky aroma of Virginia tobacco, a note that adds a bold and sophisticated richness. The final whispers of Siamese benzoin, with its resinous vanilla-like sweetness, and Mexican vanilla, warm and intoxicating, leave a lingering trail of gilded opulence, like the last rays of a golden sunset.

Each ingredient in L’Or was chosen with purpose, weaving together a fragrance as radiant and enduring as the precious metal that inspired its name. The interplay of bright citrus, opulent florals, and sensual woods and resins creates an oriental masterpiece, embodying the decadence, elegance, and mystery that defined the Belle Époque.

Personal Perfumes:

In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies adopted a marketing strategy that associated certain perfumes with specific characteristics, such as complexion or hair color, suggesting that particular scents were better suited to different types of women. It became customary for perfumers to advise that blondes should opt for lighter perfumes, while brunettes would be better suited to heavier Oriental fragrances. For blondes, perfumes like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or were recommended, while brunettes were suggested to wear scents such as L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were advised to choose from fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.

Alternatively, some perfumers suggested that women select fragrances based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical attributes. These marketing techniques proved successful, leading to the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, likely by those seeking gifts or unsure about which scents to wear. For women of a sunny and joyous disposition, perfumes such as L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended, while those with dreamy and elusive qualities were advised to try scents like Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc. Exotic types were directed towards fragrances such as Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, while mysterious personalities were suggested to explore scents like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen. Finally, women with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments were encouraged to consider perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan.

Product Line:

In 1913, Coty's L'Or perfume expanded its offerings beyond just its signature scent, showcasing a comprehensive product line that catered to a range of preferences and needs. This expansion not only broadened the appeal of the fragrance but also cemented its status as a luxury brand synonymous with sophistication and refinement.

The introduction of L'Or in various forms reflected the diverse tastes and preferences of consumers during the Edwardian era. Parfum, with its concentrated and long-lasting scent, appealed to those seeking a more intense fragrance experience, ideal for special occasions and evenings out. Meanwhile, toilet water provided a lighter, fresher alternative, suitable for everyday use and warmer weather.

The inclusion of face powder and sachet in the product line further demonstrated Coty's understanding of the importance of scent in personal grooming and home ambiance. Face powder infused with the delicate fragrance of L'Or allowed women to not only enhance their beauty but also to envelop themselves in its alluring scent throughout the day. Sachets filled with L'Or-scented powder provided a luxurious touch to closets and drawers, imparting a subtle fragrance to clothing and linens.

By offering L'Or in multiple forms, Coty ensured that the fragrance could be integrated seamlessly into various aspects of daily life, from personal grooming to home decor. This versatility contributed to its widespread appeal and enduring popularity among consumers seeking to indulge in the luxury and refinement associated with the Edwardian era.

Overall, the expansion of the L'Or product line in 1913 represented a strategic move by Coty to capitalize on the success of the perfume by offering complementary products that catered to different preferences and lifestyles. It solidified L'Or's position as a leading fragrance brand synonymous with elegance, sophistication, and timeless allure.

Bottle:

Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:

The original L'Or perfume from 1912 was presented in bottles made by Rene Lalique. The Rene Lalique designed bottle features a double moth frosted glass stopper. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances.

This bottle was also made by Baccarat in 1913, mold number 241. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25' tall.

This was later made by Coty's own glassworks and will be marked "Coty" on the base. The Coty marked bottle holds 1.6 oz of parfum and stands 3.25" tall, it was housed inside of a green leather covered box.

This bottle was adapted for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291.

 Then in 1913, another Baccarat bottle was made for various Coty perfumes, model number 225. This was a tall, square shape with a cut crystal lapidary stopper.

After 1920, bottles were made at Coty's own glassworks in France. The 1920s parfum bottles came in two sizes: 1 oz and 2 oz. The 1920s toilet water bottles came in three sizes: 3 oz, 6 oz, 8.5 oz.

Etui a Cigarette Presentation:

Also introduced in 1927, was the Etui a Cigarette presentation for parfum. The bottle measures 3 3/4" tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original 1912 version of L'Or, a fragrance of unparalleled elegance and refinement, had a lifespan that spanned several decades, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery. Despite its eventual departure from the market, its legacy endured, lingering in the memories of those fortunate enough to have experienced its exquisite aroma. Remarkably, remnants of its allure persisted, with records indicating its availability as late as 1935, a testament to its enduring popularity.

As the world plunged into the chaos of the Second World War, the fate of L'Or hung in the balance. The tumultuous landscape of conflict brought about significant disruptions to the fragrance industry, imposing constraints on the procurement of raw materials and the logistics of importing and exporting goods. These challenges proved insurmountable for many perfume manufacturers, forcing them to make difficult decisions regarding the continuation of their product lines.

In the midst of these upheavals, L'Or faced an uncertain future. Whether it succumbed to the pressures of wartime restrictions or quietly faded away before the onset of global conflict remains a mystery lost to the annals of history. Yet, its absence left a palpable void in the world of perfumery, a reminder of the fragility of beauty and luxury in times of strife.

Though the original 1912 version of L'Or may have vanished from shelves and counters, its legacy endures in the collective consciousness of perfume enthusiasts and connoisseurs. Its discontinuation serves as a poignant reminder of the ephemeral nature of luxury and the enduring allure of timeless classics. While the fragrance itself may no longer grace the wrists and necks of discerning wearers, its memory lingers on, a whisper of opulence from a bygone era.

1959 Reformulation & Relaunch: 

By the time L’Or was relaunched in 1959, the world had changed dramatically from its 1912 debut. The elegance and excess of the Belle Époque had given way to the modern, streamlined glamour of the post-war era, and with it came an evolution in fragrance preferences. Vincent Roubert, the esteemed perfumer behind the reformulation, faced the challenge of adapting L’Or to suit contemporary tastes while still preserving the golden richness of its original essence. Perfumes of the late 1950s had begun shifting toward more luminous, refined compositions—lighter, yet still retaining depth and sensuality. Roubert’s reinterpretation likely softened the heavier facets of the original, replacing some of the more animalic and balsamic notes with modern synthetics and more ethereal floral and woody accords. The indulgent richness of the early 20th century was now tempered with a sense of sophistication and restraint, making the fragrance more suited to the refined, cosmopolitan woman of the 1950s.

The relaunch of L’Or in 1959 came at a time when society was embracing a new wave of prosperity, elegance, and cultural dynamism. The 1950s were a period of post-war recovery, where the world was eager to indulge in luxury again, yet with a newfound appreciation for understated refinement. Fashion reflected this shift—Christian Dior’s “New Look” had redefined femininity with nipped-in waists and voluminous skirts, while the polished sophistication of Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly epitomized the ideal woman of the era. Perfumes followed suit, leaning toward more structured, harmonious compositions that balanced opulence with modernity. Against this backdrop, L’Or reemerged not just as a relic of the past but as a fragrance that captured both nostalgia and reinvention—a golden thread connecting generations of women.

The fragrance’s relaunch was met with fanfare and appreciation from perfume enthusiasts who welcomed the return of a beloved classic. For many, L’Or represented a bridge between two worlds—the rich, warm decadence of the early 20th century and the sleek, polished elegance of mid-century luxury. It was a scent for women who appreciated heritage but embraced modernity, for those who wanted to wear a fragrance that whispered of timeless sophistication while still feeling fresh and relevant. The reformulation ensured that L’Or would continue to captivate a new generation, securing its place as a classic that evolved with the times, yet never lost its radiant, gilded soul.

Fragrance Composition:

 

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral leathery chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, galbanum, bergamot, lilac, neroli, heliotrope
• Middle notes: mimosa, iris, rose, honeysuckle, jasmine, hyacinth, violet, spices, labdanum, orange blossom
• Base notes: Indian musk, cedar, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, orris, patchouli, vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, civet, Mexican vanilla, leather, benzoin

Scent Profile:

The 1959 reformulation of L’Or transformed the original fragrance into a floral-leathery chypre, aligning with the evolving sophistication of mid-century perfumery. The new composition retained its opulence but introduced a more structured elegance, incorporating refined aldehydes, rich florals, and a deep, sensual leather accord. This version of L’Or was designed for the modern woman—graceful yet confident, polished yet alluring, embodying the post-war era’s return to understated luxury and quiet power.

From the first encounter, the top notes sparkle with aldehydes, lending a soft, airy brightness that lifts the composition, creating an effect reminiscent of champagne bubbles or the shimmer of sunlight on polished gold. Lemon and bergamot provide a crisp, citrusy sharpness, cutting through the initial effervescence with a refined clarity. Galbanum, an intense green resin, adds a bold, almost biting verdancy, while delicate lilac and heliotrope soften the sharp edges, infusing a hint of powdery sweetness. Neroli contributes a luminous, honeyed floralcy, its bright yet slightly bitter nuances acting as a bridge between the freshness of the opening and the warmth of the heart.

As the fragrance deepens, the floral bouquet in the middle notes blooms with richness and complexity. Mimosa and violet impart a soft, airy sweetness, while iris and rose add a velvety, powdery elegance. Jasmine and honeysuckle bring a heady, almost narcotic quality, their indolic facets lending a sensual depth that is further accentuated by spices and labdanum. The resinous warmth of labdanum introduces a slight ambered smokiness, blending seamlessly with orange blossom’s luminous, honeyed facets. This interplay of florals and resins creates a heart that is both opulent and sophisticated, evoking images of golden silks, vintage leather gloves, and the lingering warmth of an intimate evening affair.

The base of the fragrance reveals its true chypre character, anchored by a rich, leathery accord that sets this iteration of L’Or apart from its predecessor. Indian musk and civet introduce a deeply sensual warmth, adding a touch of animalic intensity that enhances the fragrance’s seductive allure. Mysore sandalwood, renowned for its creamy, almost milky smoothness, melds with the earthy, slightly smoky tones of patchouli and vetiver, grounding the scent with a velvety, mossy depth. Ambergris and orris lend an ethereal quality, their subtle powdery-salty facets lingering like an elegant whisper on the skin. Venezuelan tonka bean and Mexican vanilla provide a rich, slightly sweet warmth, but rather than dominating, they enhance the natural sweetness of the florals and the rich, supple texture of the leather.

The addition of leather in this reformulation is key—it transforms L’Or into a more confident, enigmatic fragrance, one that suggests both refinement and sensuality. This element evokes the image of a woman elegantly draped in a tailored suit, her presence commanding yet effortlessly graceful, with the lingering scent of expensive leather and delicate florals trailing in her wake. The overall composition maintains L’Or’s heritage of luxury, yet it feels more self-assured, modern, and seamlessly balanced, ensuring its relevance in a rapidly changing world.

Bottle:

Central to the relaunch was the exquisite packaging that housed the revitalized fragrance. Encased within a stunning Baccarat crystal flacon, L'Or was presented in a vessel of unparalleled beauty and elegance. The heavy crystal flacon, fashioned in an elongated teardrop shape with a matching crystal stopper, exuded luxury and sophistication at every turn. A black velvet bow delicately adorned the neck of the bottle, adding a touch of refinement, while a gold metallic paper label hung from the bow, hinting at the fragrance's opulent contents.

The Baccarat bottle, model number 821, stood as a testament to the craftsmanship and artistry of its time, showcasing the meticulous attention to detail that went into the creation of each component. Its exquisite design elevated L'Or to new heights of luxury, transforming it into not just a fragrance, but a coveted objet d'art coveted by collectors and enthusiasts.

In 1960, L'Or achieved the pinnacle of luxury, earning the distinction of being the world's most expensive fragrance. With an ounce of the fragrance housed within the iconic Baccarat bottle costing $60, it represented the epitome of indulgence and refinement, appealing to those with discerning tastes and a penchant for the finer things in life.

The relaunch of L'Or in 1959 was not merely a reintroduction of a fragrance, but a reimagining of an icon, a celebration of beauty, luxury, and sophistication that captivated the imagination of an entire generation.

Fate of the Fragrance:

 

The discontinuation of the perfume by 1970 marked the end of an era defined by elegance and sophistication. As the fragrance vanished from shelves and counters, it left a palpable void in the world of perfumery, its absence felt keenly by those who had come to cherish its timeless allure. Unlike its reintroduction in 1959, which was met with much fanfare and excitement, the discontinuation of the perfume by 1970 occurred with little ceremony or explanation. For many, it was a sudden and unexpected departure, leaving them longing for the familiar scent that had become an integral part of their lives.

The 1970s represented a period of transition and change, both culturally and socially. As new trends and tastes emerged, the perfume industry underwent its own evolution, with classic fragrances making way for newer, more innovative creations. Against this backdrop of transformation, the decision to discontinue the perfume may have been influenced by shifting consumer preferences, as well as broader economic and market factors. Whatever the reasons behind its demise, the discontinuation of the perfume by 1970 marked the end of an era, closing the chapter on a fragrance that had once captivated the senses and captured the imagination of an entire generation.