Coty Perfumes: L'Or by Coty c1912

In 1912, the world was on the cusp of significant change, a period marked by both opulence and uncertainty. It was a time when gold held immense symbolic and material value, representing wealth, luxury, and aspiration. Against this backdrop, Coty's introduction of L'Or perfume in the same year seems fitting, as it sought to encapsulate the allure and prestige associated with this precious metal.

Vincent Roubert's meticulous craftsmanship, taking five years to perfect the formula, reflects the attention to detail and refinement characteristic of the Edwardian era. This period, marked by lavishness and elegance, was a fitting milieu for the creation of such a luxurious fragrance. The Edwardians, known for their penchant for extravagance and indulgence, would have been drawn to the allure of L'Or, with its promise of sophistication and refinement.

The naming of the perfume as "L'Or," meaning gold in French, further underscores its association with wealth and luxury. Gold was not merely a metal but a symbol of status and desire, embodying the aspirations of the era's elite. By naming the perfume after this precious metal, Coty aimed to evoke a sense of opulence and exclusivity, appealing to the desires of the Edwardian elite who sought to surround themselves with luxury.

The launch of L'Or coincided with a period of great exploration and adventure, epitomized by events such as the maiden voyage of the Titanic in 1912. The Titanic, with its opulent interiors and wealthy passengers, symbolized the height of Edwardian extravagance and ambition. L'Or, with its exotic allure and promise of unquenchable dreams, would have resonated with the spirit of adventure embodied by such grand undertakings.

In essence, the launch of L'Or in 1912 marked a convergence of luxury, aspiration, and adventure, capturing the spirit of the Edwardian era and its fascination with opulence and exploration. Its name, its formulation, and its marketing all spoke to the desires and dreams of a society on the brink of transformation, making it a fitting symbol of its time.

In 1913, Coty's L'Or perfume expanded its offerings beyond just its signature scent, showcasing a comprehensive product line that catered to a range of preferences and needs. This expansion not only broadened the appeal of the fragrance but also cemented its status as a luxury brand synonymous with sophistication and refinement.

The introduction of L'Or in various forms reflected the diverse tastes and preferences of consumers during the Edwardian era. Parfum, with its concentrated and long-lasting scent, appealed to those seeking a more intense fragrance experience, ideal for special occasions and evenings out. Meanwhile, toilet water provided a lighter, fresher alternative, suitable for everyday use and warmer weather.

The inclusion of face powder and sachet in the product line further demonstrated Coty's understanding of the importance of scent in personal grooming and home ambiance. Face powder infused with the delicate fragrance of L'Or allowed women to not only enhance their beauty but also to envelop themselves in its alluring scent throughout the day. Sachets filled with L'Or-scented powder provided a luxurious touch to closets and drawers, imparting a subtle fragrance to clothing and linens.

By offering L'Or in multiple forms, Coty ensured that the fragrance could be integrated seamlessly into various aspects of daily life, from personal grooming to home decor. This versatility contributed to its widespread appeal and enduring popularity among consumers seeking to indulge in the luxury and refinement associated with the Edwardian era.

Overall, the expansion of the L'Or product line in 1913 represented a strategic move by Coty to capitalize on the success of the perfume by offering complementary products that catered to different preferences and lifestyles. It solidified L'Or's position as a leading fragrance brand synonymous with elegance, sophistication, and timeless allure.

A Startling Halt:

During the First World War, the flow of Coty products from France to the United States came to an abrupt halt, disrupting the supply chain and leaving American retailers with only existing stock to offer consumers. Despite the war's end in 1918, the resumption of regular importations to America was not realized until 1921, as evidenced by newspaper advertisements from the period. In contrast, distribution to France and Italy remained relatively unaffected, a phenomenon that may be attributed to the intricate processes involved in sourcing and importing raw materials, as well as potential challenges related to bottle availability. Meanwhile, the impact of the war reverberated across the luxury craftsmanship landscape, leading to the closure of Lalique's initial factory. However, a new chapter began with the commencement of construction on a new facility in Wingen-sur-Moder, Alsace, during WWI. Completed in 1921, this factory continues to produce Lalique crystal, showcasing resilience and continuity in the face of adversity.

Once production resumed and the turbulent waters of war settled, L'Or emerged once again, gracing the shelves of perfumeries and boutiques with its timeless allure and sophistication. The reintroduction of this iconic fragrance marked a return to elegance and luxury, capturing the hearts and imaginations of perfume enthusiasts around the world. With its exquisite aroma and elegant presentation, L'Or reclaimed its status as a symbol of opulence and refinement, serving as a testament to the enduring appeal of classic fragrances.

As described in The Times Herald in 1925, L'Or was depicted as a fragrance that embodied the essence of desire and ambition, evoking images of "gilt sailed argosies" and "the golden blonde of sunset hair and eyes." Its allure was not merely in its scent but in its ability to transport one to a realm of fantasy and aspiration, where dreams were limitless and desires boundless. The perfume's ability to infuse even cigarettes with its delicate fragrance speaks to its versatility and allure, captivating the senses and inspiring high endeavors.

The Times Herald, 1925:

"L'Or: the golden lure of strange quests; gilt sailed argosies with high prows breasting the foam of unknown seas toward the gal of all desires. Leaping, glowing soul of flames; subtle fragrance of the golden blonde of sunset hair and eyes, symbol of the unquenchable dream within the hearts of men, alluring, inspiring to high endeavor. It is an exquisite perfume for cigarettes. A few drops on a bit of silk kept in the box gives them a delicate, fascinating balminess, breathing out in smoke, the fragrance of her it expresses."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original 1912 version was classified as an oriental fragrance for women and was according to a 1913 ad "very similar to L'Origan". It had notes of flowers and tobacco.

Top notes: lemon, galbanum, bergamot, lilac, neroli, heliotrope
Middle notes: mimosa, iris, rose, honeysuckle, jasmine, hyacinth, violet, spices, labdanum, orange blossom
Base notes: Indian musk, cedar, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, orris, patchouli, vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, civet, Mexican vanilla, tobacco, benzoin

A 1923 ad states that L'Or is a "Glowing, vivid heart of flames, perfume of golden blondes of irresistible charm."

Scent Profile:

As you step onto the luxurious deck of the Titanic, the air is imbued with the scent of opulence and sophistication, mingling seamlessly with the fresh ocean breeze. The original 1912 version of the fragrance envelops you like a warm embrace, evoking the elegance and grandeur of the era. Classified as an oriental fragrance for women, it offers a tantalizing olfactory journey reminiscent of the finest perfumes of its time.

As you breathe in the top notes, the bright and zesty aroma of lemon and bergamot dances upon your senses, intermingling with the crisp freshness of galbanum. These citrusy notes evoke the feeling of sunlight dancing on the waves, infusing the air with a sense of vitality and brightness. Amidst the gleaming opulent furnishings of the ship's interior, the delicate floral scents of lilac, neroli, and heliotrope waft gently through the air, reminiscent of the fresh flowers adorning every corner.

Moving deeper into the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a bouquet of exquisite floral notes that captivate the senses. Mimosa, iris, rose, and jasmine intertwine effortlessly, their intoxicating aroma evoking images of lush gardens in full bloom. Honeysuckle and hyacinth add a touch of sweetness and freshness, while violet lends a soft, powdery elegance to the composition. Amidst the succulent foods and drinks served in the ship's lavish dining halls, the spices and labdanum add a subtle warmth and depth to the fragrance, enticing you to indulge in its luxurious embrace.

As the fragrance begins to settle, the base notes emerge, grounding the scent with a rich and sensual allure. Indian musk and ambergris create a velvety smoothness, reminiscent of the luxurious fabrics that adorn the ship's interior. Cedar and Mysore sandalwood add a woody warmth, evoking images of polished mahogany and rich, dark paneling. Orris and patchouli lend a hint of earthiness and sophistication, while vetiver and Venezuelan tonka bean infuse the scent with a touch of exoticism and intrigue.

As you continue to explore the Titanic's lavish surroundings, the fragrance unfolds like a symphony of scent, each note harmonizing with the next to create an unforgettable olfactory experience. Civet, Mexican vanilla, and tobacco add a subtle sensuality to the composition, lingering on the air like a whisper of indulgence. Benzoin provides a soft, resinous sweetness, weaving a thread of warmth and comfort throughout the fragrance. Together, these ingredients come together to create a scent that is as timeless and alluring as the ship itself, a true masterpiece of luxury and elegance.

Personal Perfumes:

In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies adopted a marketing strategy that associated certain perfumes with specific characteristics, such as complexion or hair color, suggesting that particular scents were better suited to different types of women. It became customary for perfumers to advise that blondes should opt for lighter perfumes, while brunettes would be better suited to heavier Oriental fragrances. For blondes, perfumes like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or were recommended, while brunettes were suggested to wear scents such as L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were advised to choose from fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.

Alternatively, some perfumers suggested that women select fragrances based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical attributes. These marketing techniques proved successful, leading to the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, likely by those seeking gifts or unsure about which scents to wear. For women of a sunny and joyous disposition, perfumes such as L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended, while those with dreamy and elusive qualities were advised to try scents like Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc. Exotic types were directed towards fragrances such as Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, while mysterious personalities were suggested to explore scents like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen. Finally, women with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments were encouraged to consider perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan.

Bottle:

Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:

The original L'Or perfume from 1912 was presented in bottles made by Rene Lalique. The Rene Lalique designed bottle features a double moth frosted glass stopper. This bottle was originally designed by Lalique for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, but was later used for almost all of the Coty fragrances.

This bottle was also made by Baccarat in 1913, mold number 241. These bottles should be acid marked Baccarat on the base. The Baccarat bottle can be found standing at 3.25' tall.

This was later made by Coty's own glassworks and will be marked "Coty" on the base. The Coty marked bottle holds 1.6 oz of parfum and stands 3.25" tall, it was housed inside of a green leather covered box.

This bottle was adapted for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291.

Then in 1913, another Baccarat bottle was made for various Coty perfumes, model number 225. This was a tall, square shape with a cut crystal lapidary stopper.

After 1920, bottles were made at Coty's own glassworks in France. The 1920s parfum bottles came in two sizes: 1 oz and 2 oz. The 1920s toilet water bottles came in three sizes: 3 oz, 6 oz, 8.5 oz.

Etui a Cigarette Presentation:

Also introduced in 1927, was the Etui a Cigarette presentation for parfum. The bottle measures 3 3/4" tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original 1912 version of L'Or, a fragrance of unparalleled elegance and refinement, had a lifespan that spanned several decades, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery. Despite its eventual departure from the market, its legacy endured, lingering in the memories of those fortunate enough to have experienced its exquisite aroma. Remarkably, remnants of its allure persisted, with records indicating its availability as late as 1935, a testament to its enduring popularity.

As the world plunged into the chaos of the Second World War, the fate of L'Or hung in the balance. The tumultuous landscape of conflict brought about significant disruptions to the fragrance industry, imposing constraints on the procurement of raw materials and the logistics of importing and exporting goods. These challenges proved insurmountable for many perfume manufacturers, forcing them to make difficult decisions regarding the continuation of their product lines.

In the midst of these upheavals, L'Or faced an uncertain future. Whether it succumbed to the pressures of wartime restrictions or quietly faded away before the onset of global conflict remains a mystery lost to the annals of history. Yet, its absence left a palpable void in the world of perfumery, a reminder of the fragility of beauty and luxury in times of strife.

Though the original 1912 version of L'Or may have vanished from shelves and counters, its legacy endures in the collective consciousness of perfume enthusiasts and connoisseurs. Its discontinuation serves as a poignant reminder of the ephemeral nature of luxury and the enduring allure of timeless classics. While the fragrance itself may no longer grace the wrists and necks of discerning wearers, its memory lingers on, a whisper of opulence from a bygone era.

1959 Reformulation & Relaunch:

The relaunch of L'Or in 1959 marked a significant moment in the history of the fragrance, heralding its return to prominence after a hiatus of several years. The 1950s were a time of post-war prosperity and cultural renewal, characterized by a resurgence of interest in luxury and sophistication. Against this backdrop, the reintroduction of L'Or was met with much fanfare, capturing the attention of perfume enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.