La Violette Pourpre by Coty c1906

La Violette Pourpre by Coty, launched in 1906, epitomizes the essence of its time period in several ways. Firstly, the early 20th century was characterized by a flourishing of art, culture, and fashion, especially in Europe. This period saw the emergence of Art Nouveau, a style characterized by flowing lines, organic shapes, and motifs inspired by nature. Perfume, being intimately linked with luxury and fashion, reflected these artistic trends.

François Coty, the creator of La Violette Pourpre, was a pivotal figure in the perfume industry during this era. His innovative approach to fragrance production, which emphasized the use of synthetic materials to create new scents, revolutionized the perfume industry and paved the way for modern perfumery techniques.

The choice of purple violet as the central theme of La Violette Pourpre is significant. In the Language of Flowers, a Victorian-era code used to convey sentiments through floral arrangements, the violet symbolizes faithfulness and loyalty, making it an apt choice for a perfume associated with the sentiment "I'll always be true." This symbolism resonated deeply with the values and ideals of the time, particularly in the context of romantic relationships and courtship rituals.

 

Coty Perfumes in "Carnival" Presentations 1941 Ad

 

Including the Ferris Wheel, Sleigh and Weathervane Presentations

The Ferris Wheel: has five Louvre flacons of Coty perfumes in presentation. Fragrances as exhilarating and adventuresome as one's first ride in a Ferris Wheel. Revolving wheel mounted on graceful supports of heavy gold stamped plastic. featuring: Chypre, L'Origan, L'Aimant, Paris and Emeraude perfumes.

Weathervane: A spin of the arrow chooses one of the four world famous Coty Perfumes. A charming selection of fragrances for moods as variable as the four winds. Mounted on revolving "rose des vents" base. Plastic capped tapered flacons containing L'Aimant, L'Origan, Paris and Emeraude perfumes.

Sleigh: Miniature of a continental cutter in colored plastic with gold stamping. Adorned with tiny sleighbells. Contains glass stoppered Louvre flacons of L'Aimant and L'Origan perfume.

Coty Counter at Selfridges c1920s

 This antique photograph documents a Coty beauty counter in Selfridge's department store. I have added color to make it more interesting. We see two of the beauty advisors accompanied by a Coty representative wearing a very unusual, but appropriate dress: her skirt has circles which feature the powder puff design shown on the Air Spun powder boxes and the Coty name is written across her bust.

Inside the case and atop it are various perfumes, talcum powder bottles, powder boxes, and compacts.

This is a remarkable piece of history showing how the Coty products were displayed as well as the advertising signs which are framed with actual French flags.

Lilas Pourpre by Coty c1911

In 1911, the renowned perfumer François Coty unveiled the exquisite fragrance Le Lilas Pourpre.

The Romanov Grand Duchesses had a particular fondness for the floral scents crafted by the French house of Coty. Among them, Anastasia was captivated by the delicate notes of La Violette Pourpre, while Olga cherished the elegant aroma of La Rose Jacqueminot. Tatiana had a penchant for the exotic scent of Jasmin de Corse, and Maria's favorite was the enchanting Le Lilas Pourpre. These fragrances became a signature part of their refined and sophisticated personas, highlighting their individual preferences and styles.

Coty Perfume Gift Sets Pour L'Occasion 1938 Advertisement

Coty Perfume Gift Sets "Pour L'Occasion" 1938 Advertisement.

Ici by Coty c1995

Gourmand fragrances, which are scents inspired by food and dessert-like notes, experienced a significant surge in popularity around the time of the launch of "Ici" by Coty in 1995. This trend was part of a broader movement in perfumery towards more unconventional and experiential scents, as consumers sought fragrances that were not just pleasant to wear but also evoked a sense of nostalgia or indulgence.

One of the landmark gourmand fragrances that set the stage for this trend was "Angel" by Thierry Mugler, which debuted in 1992. Angel was revolutionary for its use of edible notes like chocolate, caramel, and vanilla, which were blended with traditional floral and oriental elements to create a unique olfactory experience. Its success paved the way for other perfumers to explore similar territory, leading to the creation of fragrances like "Ici" by Coty.

"Ici" capitalized on the gourmand trend by featuring notes such as vanilla, creme brulee, caramel, and cocoa, which further reinforced the idea of scent as a sensory experience reminiscent of indulgent desserts. By combining these edible elements with other aromatic components, "Ici" aimed to evoke a sense of luxury and comfort, appealing to consumers who sought fragrances that went beyond traditional floral or citrusy scents.

Overall, the rise of gourmand fragrances in the mid-1990s reflected a shift in consumer preferences towards more innovative and multisensory olfactory experiences. These scents tapped into the emotional connection between scent and memory, offering wearers a way to indulge in the pleasures of food and dessert through the medium of fragrance.

Sophia by Coty c1980

Sophia is a Coty fragrance inspired by the famous Sophia Loren. Created by James Bell.

Nokomis by Coty c1997

It's fascinating how the inspiration for Coty's perfume, Nokomis, could potentially be traced back to the 1995 Disney movie, "Pocahontas." Released just a couple of years before the launch of Nokomis, "Pocahontas" was a significant cultural event, particularly for its portrayal of Native American culture and themes of nature, connection, and spirituality.

Now, while Nokomis itself was named after the Ojibwe word for "grandmother," which holds deep significance within Native American culture, the connection to "Pocahontas" might lie in the broader cultural awareness and appreciation for Native American traditions and stories that the movie helped to foster.

In "Pocahontas," the character of Grandmother Willow serves as a wise and spiritual guide to the titular character. While Nokomis in Ojibwe tradition is not directly tied to Pocahontas or Grandmother Willow, the association with the term "grandmother" could evoke similar feelings of wisdom, guidance, and connection to nature that are present in both the movie and the fragrance.

Furthermore, the mention of Nokomis as a character in Longfellow's "The Song of Hiawatha" adds another layer to this potential inspiration. Longfellow's poem, though not directly related to "Pocahontas," is part of the broader cultural tapestry that includes Native American themes and characters, much like the Disney film.

So, while there may not be a direct link between Nokomis perfume and "Pocahontas," the cultural milieu of the mid-1990s, with its heightened interest in Native American stories and themes, likely played a role in shaping Coty's choice of name and perhaps the overall aesthetic and messaging of the fragrance.

The Song of Hiawatha by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow:

By The Shores of Gitche Gumee
By The Shining Big Sea Water
Stood The Wigwam of Nokomis
Daughter of the Moon Nokomis

Au Coeur des Calices by Coty c1912

In 1912, when "Au Coeur des Calices" by Coty was launched, the Western world was in the midst of significant social and cultural shifts. This was the Edwardian era, characterized by elegance, sophistication, and a sense of opulence. Delicate feminine fragrances were indeed en vogue, mirroring the refined tastes of the time.

The French name "Au Coeur des Calices" translates to "At the Heart of the Calyxes" in English.  Calyxes are the protective coverings of a flower's bud, often associated with the innermost essence of a blossom. In the context of fragrance, the name suggests a focus on capturing the essence or the most potent part of the flower, perhaps hinting at a rich, intense scent profile. This could imply that the perfume contained concentrated floral notes, highlighting the lush and intricate aromas found within the heart of the flowers. 

During the time period when delicate feminine fragrances were in vogue, such a name would have resonated with women who sought perfumes that not only embodied femininity but also offered a sense of depth and complexity. It aligns with the preference for elegant, sophisticated scents that reflected the refined tastes of the Edwardian era.

The launch of this perfume in 1912 coincided with the era of the Titanic, an iconic event that epitomized the extravagance and grandeur of the time. Just as the Titanic represented the pinnacle of luxury and sophistication, "Au Coeur des Calices" likely aimed to capture the essence of that era's refined femininity, offering women a scent that evoked a sense of timeless beauty and elegance.

La Jacinthe by Coty c1914

La Jacinthe by Coty was launched in 1914.

L'Ambreine c1906

L'Ambreine by Coty, launched in 1906, carries with it a name that evokes both mystery and luxury. The word "Ambreine" is derived from the French word ambre, meaning ambergris, and the suffix -ine, commonly used to denote a substance or compound. In this case, the term “L’Ambreine” would be pronounced as “lahm-brin,” with the emphasis on the second syllable. Amber, historically prized for its warm, rich color and deep, resinous scent, conjures images of golden-hued jewels, ancient treasures, and the earthy warmth of the natural world. The name itself evokes a sense of opulence and sensuality, a fragrance inspired by the mysteries of the East, with its exotic allure and complex, animalic undertones.

The early 20th century, when L'Ambreine was introduced, was a time of tremendous change and innovation. The period, straddling the tail end of the Belle Époque and the dawn of the modern era, was marked by both technological advances and a yearning for escapism. Women of the time were entering new realms of independence and freedom, and fashions reflected this evolution. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements were in full bloom, with intricate, flowing designs and bold geometric shapes inspiring everything from architecture to fashion. The trend toward more exotic and oriental-inspired fragrances paralleled these aesthetic shifts, reflecting a fascination with the faraway and the unknown. The demand for perfumes with rich, complex compositions, often incorporating animalic or "oriental" notes, was at its height, and women sought fragrances that matched their evolving roles as both liberated individuals and sophisticated consumers of luxury goods.

Coty Perfumes and Their Color Coordinations

Over the years, Coty often used special colors when packaging their perfumes. These colors variations often changed according to the different packaging used. Most bakelite are solid colors while the lucite caps often had marbling veins. Please note that the caps can fade color if exposed to sunlight, one example is that the pale pink can often turn almost white. Here is a list of known color coordinations that I have found, you will usually find the caps for perfume bottles are colored in the following:

• Red: generally used for L'Aimant, but also used for A'Suma , L'Origan

• Dark Pink to Fuschia: generally used for L'Aimant in later years

• Light Pink to Lavender: generally used for La Rose Jacqueminot, but also used for L'Origan, Meteor,  Muguet des Bois, A'Suma

• Orange to Peach: generally used for L'Origan, used for A'Suma

• Dark Green: generally used for Emeraude, but also used for Chypre, La Rose Jacqueminot, L'Aimant, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Muguet, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Jade Green: generally used for Chypre, Le Vertige, Emeraude, A'Suma, Meteor, Oeillet France, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Blue: generally used for Paris, but also used by L'Aimant, L'Origan, Chypre, Le Vertige, Muguet des Bois, Iris, Le Nouveau Gardenia, and L'Ambre Antique

• White: generally used for L'Origan but also used for Styx, Chypre, Meteor, Muguet, Muse, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Black: generally used for Styx, but also by Le Vertige, Lavande, L'Origan, and Muse

Chypre by Coty c1908

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 marked a significant moment in the history of perfumery. This period, the early 20th century, was characterized by a shift in fragrance trends and the emergence of new olfactory styles. The word "chypre" itself comes from the French word for Cyprus, and this genre of perfumes is known for its woody, mossy, and citrusy accords.

The early 1900s were a time of cultural and artistic change, with the Belle Époque giving way to the more modern and progressive sensibilities of the early 20th century. Perfumery was undergoing a similar transformation, moving away from the heavy, floral scents of the Victorian era towards lighter, more abstract compositions.

François Coty, the founder of the Coty perfume house, was a pivotal figure in this evolution. He was instrumental in popularizing the concept of designer perfumes and making them accessible to a wider audience. Coty's Chypre fragrance was groundbreaking for its innovative blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, which departed from the traditional single-flower scents that were prevalent at the time.

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 would have occurred against the backdrop of a rapidly changing society, where new ideas and artistic movements were flourishing. It represented a departure from the past and a bold step into the future of perfumery, setting the stage for the diverse range of fragrances that would follow in the decades to come.

L'Or by Coty c1912

In 1912, the world was on the cusp of significant change, a period marked by both opulence and uncertainty. It was a time when gold held immense symbolic and material value, representing wealth, luxury, and aspiration. Against this backdrop, Coty's introduction of L'Or perfume in the same year seems fitting, as it sought to encapsulate the allure and prestige associated with this precious metal.

Vincent Roubert's meticulous craftsmanship, taking five years to perfect the formula, reflects the attention to detail and refinement characteristic of the Edwardian era. This period, marked by lavishness and elegance, was a fitting milieu for the creation of such a luxurious fragrance. The Edwardians, known for their penchant for extravagance and indulgence, would have been drawn to the allure of L'Or, with its promise of sophistication and refinement.

The naming of the perfume as "L'Or," meaning gold in French, further underscores its association with wealth and luxury. Gold was not merely a metal but a symbol of status and desire, embodying the aspirations of the era's elite. By naming the perfume after this precious metal, Coty aimed to evoke a sense of opulence and exclusivity, appealing to the desires of the Edwardian elite who sought to surround themselves with luxury.

The launch of L'Or coincided with a period of great exploration and adventure, epitomized by events such as the maiden voyage of the Titanic in 1912. The Titanic, with its opulent interiors and wealthy passengers, symbolized the height of Edwardian extravagance and ambition. L'Or, with its exotic allure and promise of unquenchable dreams, would have resonated with the spirit of adventure embodied by such grand undertakings.

In essence, the launch of L'Or in 1912 marked a convergence of luxury, aspiration, and adventure, capturing the spirit of the Edwardian era and its fascination with opulence and exploration. Its name, its formulation, and its marketing all spoke to the desires and dreams of a society on the brink of transformation, making it a fitting symbol of its time.

Jasmin de Corse by Coty 1906

The launch of Jasmin de Corse by Coty in 1906 marks a significant moment in the history of perfumery, reflecting the tastes and trends of the early 20th century. This period saw a flourishing interest in fragrances, with perfumes becoming essential accessories for both men and women, symbolizing luxury, refinement, and sophistication.

Corsica, the birthplace of François Coty, holds a special significance in the creation of Jasmin de Corse. Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean Sea known for its stunning natural beauty and rich floral diversity, particularly jasmine, serves as the inspiration for this fragrance. Jasmine, with its intoxicating floral aroma, has long been revered in perfumery for its sensuous and exotic qualities. Corsican jasmine, in particular, is renowned for its exceptional fragrance, often described as heady, floral, and slightly sweet, making it a prized ingredient in perfumery.

In Jasmin de Corse, Coty masterfully captures the essence of Corsican jasmine, blending it with other complementary notes to create a scent that exudes elegance and allure. The fragrance likely evokes the lush landscapes and fragrant blooms of Corsica, transporting wearers to a romantic and exotic paradise with each spritz.

The endorsements of notable figures like Tatiana Romanov, a Russian princess, and Colette, a renowned French writer, further cemented Jasmin de Corse's status as a beloved fragrance of the era. Tatiana Romanov's endorsement would have added a touch of royal allure to the perfume, while Colette's daily wear of Jasmin de Corse speaks to its timeless appeal and versatility. Their admiration for the fragrance underscores its universal appeal and ability to captivate individuals from different backgrounds and cultures.

Overall, the launch of Jasmin de Corse in 1906 encapsulates the spirit of its time, embodying the opulence, romance, and allure of early 20th-century perfumery. Its association with Corsica and jasmine adds an exotic and luxurious dimension to the fragrance, making it a beloved classic that continues to enchant perfume enthusiasts to this day.