In 1912, when "Au Coeur des Calices" by Coty was launched, the Western world was in the midst of significant social and cultural shifts. This was the Edwardian era, characterized by elegance, sophistication, and a sense of opulence. Delicate feminine fragrances were indeed en vogue, mirroring the refined tastes of the time.
The French name "Au Coeur des Calices" translates to "At the Heart of the Calyxes" in English. Calyxes are the protective coverings of a flower's bud, often associated with the innermost essence of a blossom. In the context of fragrance, the name suggests a focus on capturing the essence or the most potent part of the flower, perhaps hinting at a rich, intense scent profile. This could imply that the perfume contained concentrated floral notes, highlighting the lush and intricate aromas found within the heart of the flowers.
During the time period when delicate feminine fragrances were in vogue, such a name would have resonated with women who sought perfumes that not only embodied femininity but also offered a sense of depth and complexity. It aligns with the preference for elegant, sophisticated scents that reflected the refined tastes of the Edwardian era.
The launch of this perfume in 1912 coincided with the era of the Titanic, an iconic event that epitomized the extravagance and grandeur of the time. Just as the Titanic represented the pinnacle of luxury and sophistication, "Au Coeur des Calices" likely aimed to capture the essence of that era's refined femininity, offering women a scent that evoked a sense of timeless beauty and elegance.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lilac, lily of the valley, violet leaves
- Middle notes: orange blossom, violet, rose, ylang ylang
- Base notes:
Natural absolutes of rose and jasmine may have played their part. Additional floral essences of lilac, ylang ylang, narcissus and lily of the valley were ingredients used by Coty in his other perfumes and may have been included in Au Coeur des Calices. A top note of bergamot could have given the composition a light, airy effect.
Proposed Scent Profile:
As you experience "Au Coeur des Calices," the interplay of its intricate notes unfolds like a symphony of nature's finest fragrances.
First, imagine the delicate caress of a spring breeze carrying the sweet, citrusy scent of orange blossom and neroli. With each inhale, the essence of these blossoms fills your senses, their calyxes releasing a burst of fresh, vibrant energy. The bees' gentle hum adds to the ambiance, as if they've brought with them the very essence of the flowers themselves.
As you delve deeper into the fragrance, the unmistakable aroma of roses embraces you, their petals releasing a velvety richness that is both intoxicating and comforting. The presence of rhodinol accentuates this floral symphony, adding layers of depth and complexity to the bouquet. It's as if you're standing amidst a lush garden, surrounded by the heady scent of blooming roses in full bloom.
Amidst the roses, hints of violet dance on the air, their delicate fragrance mingling with the other floral notes to create a harmonious blend of sweetness and nostalgia. Methyl ionones lend a powdery softness to the composition, reminiscent of freshly picked violets scattered across a sun-dappled meadow.
As the fragrance settles on your skin, subtle whispers of jasmine and lilac emerge, their ethereal aromas adding a sense of allure and sophistication to the bouquet. Ylang ylang and narcissus bring their own unique nuances to the mix, adding depth and complexity to the overall composition. Lily of the valley adds a touch of freshness, like dew-kissed petals glistening in the morning light.
Finally, a hint of bergamot adds a light, airy quality to the fragrance, elevating it to new heights and creating an olfactory experience that is both uplifting and enchanting. With each breath, you're transported to a world of timeless beauty and elegance, where the essence of springtime blooms in all its glory. "Au Coeur des Calices" is more than just a perfume—it's a sensory journey through nature's most exquisite offerings, captured in a bottle for you to enjoy and cherish.
Bottles:
The flacon of "Au Coeur des Calices" is a true embodiment of elegance and sophistication. Crafted in delicate pale blue glass, the bottle stands at a modest 2.5 inches tall, yet it exudes a sense of timeless beauty and charm.
Its design is both simple and captivating. The squat, circular shape of the bottle is reminiscent of a blooming flower, its domical form evoking the image of petals unfurling in the warmth of the sun. Molded on the interior of the glass are three rows of intricate petals, adding a subtle texture and dimension to the bottle's surface.
However, what truly sets this flacon apart is its figural bumblebee stopper. Perched delicately atop the bottle's neck is a miniature bee, its wings outstretched as if in mid-flight. With its intricate detailing and lifelike appearance, the bee adds a touch of whimsy and charm to the design, while also serving as a powerful symbol.
In many cultures, bees are revered for their industriousness, cooperation, and role in pollination—the very essence of life and renewal. Thus, the presence of the bee atop the flower head on the bottle's stopper is rich in symbolism. It not only evokes the natural world from which the fragrance draws its inspiration but also suggests a deeper connection to the beauty and vitality of the flowers themselves.
As you hold the bottle in your hand and admire its exquisite design, you can't help but feel a sense of wonder and reverence for the delicate balance of nature. The flacon of "Au Coeur des Calices" is more than just a vessel for perfume—it's a work of art that celebrates the beauty of the natural world and invites you to immerse yourself in its timeless allure.
The exquisite flacon of "Au Coeur des Calices" was crafted by none other than the legendary glassmaker, René Lalique. Renowned for his mastery of glass artistry and innovative designs, Lalique brought his unparalleled skill and creativity to the creation of this iconic perfume bottle. Lalique's attention to detail is evident in every aspect of the design, from the intricate rows of molded petals to the lifelike figural bumblebee stopper.
The flacon bears all the hallmarks of Lalique's distinctive style—elegant, refined, and imbued with a sense of naturalistic charm. Each petal seems to come to life under Lalique's expert hand, capturing the essence of a blooming flower in exquisite detail.
The figural bumblebee stopper is a testament to Lalique's ability to infuse his designs with whimsy and symbolism. Perched delicately atop the bottle's neck, the bee adds a touch of playfulness to the design while also serving as a powerful symbol of nature's vitality and renewal.
In crafting the flacon for "Au Coeur des Calices," Lalique not only created a vessel for perfume but also a work of art that celebrates the beauty of the natural world. It's a testament to Lalique's enduring legacy as one of the greatest glassmakers of all time and a fitting tribute to the timeless allure of Coty's exquisite fragrance.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The discontinuation of "Au Coeur des Calices" adds to its mystique, making it a coveted treasure among collectors of both Coty's exquisite fragrances and René Lalique's beautiful glass creations. Despite the exact date of its discontinuation remaining unknown, its rarity only enhances its allure.
The flacon of "Au Coeur des Calices," with its delicate pale blue glass and intricate figural bumblebee stopper crafted by Lalique, stands as a testament to the collaboration between two titans of their respective crafts. Its scarcity makes it even more cherished among collectors, who recognize its significance not only as a vessel for perfume but also as a work of art in its own right.
For collectors of Lalique's glassware, the bottle of "Au Coeur des Calices" holds a special place of honor in their collections. Its exquisite design and rarity make it a prized addition, symbolizing the pinnacle of Lalique's artistry and craftsmanship.
As one of the rarest finds in Coty's extensive catalog, "Au Coeur des Calices" remains a treasure waiting to be discovered by those fortunate enough to encounter it. Its legacy lives on in the hearts of collectors who appreciate its beauty and significance, ensuring that it will be cherished for generations to come.
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