L'Ambreine c1906

L'Ambreine by Coty, launched in 1906, carries with it a name that evokes both mystery and luxury. The word "Ambreine" is derived from the French word ambre, meaning ambergris, and the suffix -ine, commonly used to denote a substance or compound. In this case, the term “L’Ambreine” would be pronounced as “lahm-brin,” with the emphasis on the second syllable. Amber, historically prized for its warm, rich color and deep, resinous scent, conjures images of golden-hued jewels, ancient treasures, and the earthy warmth of the natural world. The name itself evokes a sense of opulence and sensuality, a fragrance inspired by the mysteries of the East, with its exotic allure and complex, animalic undertones.

The early 20th century, when L'Ambreine was introduced, was a time of tremendous change and innovation. The period, straddling the tail end of the Belle Époque and the dawn of the modern era, was marked by both technological advances and a yearning for escapism. Women of the time were entering new realms of independence and freedom, and fashions reflected this evolution. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements were in full bloom, with intricate, flowing designs and bold geometric shapes inspiring everything from architecture to fashion. The trend toward more exotic and oriental-inspired fragrances paralleled these aesthetic shifts, reflecting a fascination with the faraway and the unknown. The demand for perfumes with rich, complex compositions, often incorporating animalic or "oriental" notes, was at its height, and women sought fragrances that matched their evolving roles as both liberated individuals and sophisticated consumers of luxury goods.

Coty Perfumes and Their Color Coordinations

Over the years, Coty often used special colors when packaging their perfumes. These colors variations often changed according to the different packaging used. Most bakelite are solid colors while the lucite caps often had marbling veins. Please note that the caps can fade color if exposed to sunlight, one example is that the pale pink can often turn almost white. Here is a list of known color coordinations that I have found, you will usually find the caps for perfume bottles are colored in the following:

• Red: generally used for L'Aimant, but also used for A'Suma , L'Origan

• Dark Pink to Fuschia: generally used for L'Aimant in later years

• Light Pink to Lavender: generally used for La Rose Jacqueminot, but also used for L'Origan, Meteor,  Muguet des Bois, A'Suma

• Orange to Peach: generally used for L'Origan, used for A'Suma

• Dark Green: generally used for Emeraude, but also used for Chypre, La Rose Jacqueminot, L'Aimant, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Muguet, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Jade Green: generally used for Chypre, Le Vertige, Emeraude, A'Suma, Meteor, Oeillet France, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Blue: generally used for Paris, but also used by L'Aimant, L'Origan, Chypre, Le Vertige, Muguet des Bois, Iris, Le Nouveau Gardenia, and L'Ambre Antique

• White: generally used for L'Origan but also used for Styx, Chypre, Meteor, Muguet, Muse, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Black: generally used for Styx, but also by Le Vertige, Lavande, L'Origan, and Muse

Chypre by Coty c1908

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 marked a significant moment in the history of perfumery. This period, the early 20th century, was characterized by a shift in fragrance trends and the emergence of new olfactory styles. The word "chypre" itself comes from the French word for Cyprus, and this genre of perfumes is known for its woody, mossy, and citrusy accords.

The early 1900s were a time of cultural and artistic change, with the Belle Époque giving way to the more modern and progressive sensibilities of the early 20th century. Perfumery was undergoing a similar transformation, moving away from the heavy, floral scents of the Victorian era towards lighter, more abstract compositions.

François Coty, the founder of the Coty perfume house, was a pivotal figure in this evolution. He was instrumental in popularizing the concept of designer perfumes and making them accessible to a wider audience. Coty's Chypre fragrance was groundbreaking for its innovative blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, which departed from the traditional single-flower scents that were prevalent at the time.

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 would have occurred against the backdrop of a rapidly changing society, where new ideas and artistic movements were flourishing. It represented a departure from the past and a bold step into the future of perfumery, setting the stage for the diverse range of fragrances that would follow in the decades to come.

L'Or by Coty c1912

In 1912, the world was on the cusp of significant change, a period marked by both opulence and uncertainty. It was a time when gold held immense symbolic and material value, representing wealth, luxury, and aspiration. Against this backdrop, Coty's introduction of L'Or perfume in the same year seems fitting, as it sought to encapsulate the allure and prestige associated with this precious metal.

Vincent Roubert's meticulous craftsmanship, taking five years to perfect the formula, reflects the attention to detail and refinement characteristic of the Edwardian era. This period, marked by lavishness and elegance, was a fitting milieu for the creation of such a luxurious fragrance. The Edwardians, known for their penchant for extravagance and indulgence, would have been drawn to the allure of L'Or, with its promise of sophistication and refinement.

The naming of the perfume as "L'Or," meaning gold in French, further underscores its association with wealth and luxury. Gold was not merely a metal but a symbol of status and desire, embodying the aspirations of the era's elite. By naming the perfume after this precious metal, Coty aimed to evoke a sense of opulence and exclusivity, appealing to the desires of the Edwardian elite who sought to surround themselves with luxury.

The launch of L'Or coincided with a period of great exploration and adventure, epitomized by events such as the maiden voyage of the Titanic in 1912. The Titanic, with its opulent interiors and wealthy passengers, symbolized the height of Edwardian extravagance and ambition. L'Or, with its exotic allure and promise of unquenchable dreams, would have resonated with the spirit of adventure embodied by such grand undertakings.

In essence, the launch of L'Or in 1912 marked a convergence of luxury, aspiration, and adventure, capturing the spirit of the Edwardian era and its fascination with opulence and exploration. Its name, its formulation, and its marketing all spoke to the desires and dreams of a society on the brink of transformation, making it a fitting symbol of its time.

Jasmin de Corse by Coty 1906

The launch of Jasmin de Corse by Coty in 1906 marks a significant moment in the history of perfumery, reflecting the tastes and trends of the early 20th century. This period saw a flourishing interest in fragrances, with perfumes becoming essential accessories for both men and women, symbolizing luxury, refinement, and sophistication.

Corsica, the birthplace of François Coty, holds a special significance in the creation of Jasmin de Corse. Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean Sea known for its stunning natural beauty and rich floral diversity, particularly jasmine, serves as the inspiration for this fragrance. Jasmine, with its intoxicating floral aroma, has long been revered in perfumery for its sensuous and exotic qualities. Corsican jasmine, in particular, is renowned for its exceptional fragrance, often described as heady, floral, and slightly sweet, making it a prized ingredient in perfumery.

In Jasmin de Corse, Coty masterfully captures the essence of Corsican jasmine, blending it with other complementary notes to create a scent that exudes elegance and allure. The fragrance likely evokes the lush landscapes and fragrant blooms of Corsica, transporting wearers to a romantic and exotic paradise with each spritz.

The endorsements of notable figures like Tatiana Romanov, a Russian princess, and Colette, a renowned French writer, further cemented Jasmin de Corse's status as a beloved fragrance of the era. Tatiana Romanov's endorsement would have added a touch of royal allure to the perfume, while Colette's daily wear of Jasmin de Corse speaks to its timeless appeal and versatility. Their admiration for the fragrance underscores its universal appeal and ability to captivate individuals from different backgrounds and cultures.

Overall, the launch of Jasmin de Corse in 1906 encapsulates the spirit of its time, embodying the opulence, romance, and allure of early 20th-century perfumery. Its association with Corsica and jasmine adds an exotic and luxurious dimension to the fragrance, making it a beloved classic that continues to enchant perfume enthusiasts to this day.

Very Rare Antique 1920s Coty Perfume & Cosmetics Catalog Price List w/Pictures

Here are the scanned pages from my 1928 Coty catalog featuring updated prices on perfumes and cosmetics available that year.

Chanel No. 5 and Coty

Chanel No. 5 and Coty

There is a rumor that has been going around since the 1920's. It seems that some people believe that Francois Coty was the inventor of Chanel No.5. People maintain that Chanel No. 5 was an act of industrial espionage and that its formula was stolen from a competitor's laboratory in the south of France. This theory is part of that long, tangled history that connected Coco Chanel and her friend - and -competitor - Francois Coty.

As Edmond Charles-Roux tells it: "The development of No.5 …proceeded in a rather heavy atmosphere reminiscent of the whispered machinations that herald a palace revolution…Plenty of intrigue, sudden reversals and secret alliances. Nothing was missing from the script not even the spectacular disappearance of one of Coty’s top chemists. The deserter fled, clutching to his bosom the fruit of long years of research: the formula for a perfume Coty could not make up his mind to put on the market because it cost so much to produce. That was one reason why this chemist went over to the enemy: he was afraid his invention would never be available to the public…Was his name Ernest Beaux? All queries being met by the impenetrable silence of those who know, we must be content to leave this point in darkness. But one thing is certain: about seven years later, Coty was producing a perfume that was almost exactly the same as Chanel No. 5. But although I sold tolerably well, L’Aimant never made a dent in the Chanel market.”

A closer look revealed a crazy mixed-up, story. On the other hand Yvonne Coty always claimed that Chanel No. 5 was named not after the number of the fragrance vial but after the number of “a station in Coty’s laboratory at either Suresnes or at the Rallet Factory in the south of France.” She seemed to believe that there was some possible buried connection. However, Ernest Beaux never worked for Coty. He has spent his entire career at Rallet, so he couldn’t have been the fleeing chemist. Perhaps it was another perfumer at Coty who absconded with the formula and passed it along to Ernest Beaux - who then handed it to Coco Chanel. One thing is for certain, in 1927, as Charles-Roux says, someone at Coty did have a copy of the Chanel No. 5 formula or something extremely similar to it. Coty’s fragrance L’Aimant, launched that year, was too close to have been any kind of accident. The question remains, did Coty have the formula all along and was Chanel No. 5 the copy?

There is a perfectly simple reason why Coty had a copy of the formula for a Chanel No. 5 perfume in 1927. A year before, Coty’s massive company had swallowed up one of his smaller competitors, the Chiris perfume house. Coty had been closely involved with the operations at Chiris for several decades. At the turn of the century, he has trained in their labs and became business partners with several of the owners of that family company. Since WWI, he has acted as those Chiris was his business alone, in many ways and its perfume “his” holdings. It was this sense of proprietorship that would fuel an intense and not always friendly spirit of competition between Coty and Coco Chanel.

In 1926, Coty had formally purchased the business and all of its holdings, which included the A. Rallet & Co perfume outfit. All the info that Coty needed to produce his own version of Chanel No.5 was sitting right there in the archives. But the name on top of that formula was not Chanel. No. 5. What he had acquired was the recipe for another perfume, one that was invented in 1914. It smelled unmistakably like Chanel No. 5, for one simple reason: it was the secret scent behind the world’s most famous perfume. This time, the crazy story was true. 

Most of this info was taken from the book "Secret of Chanel No. 5".

Here is more info on my Chanel blog site: https://chanelperfumebottles.blogspot.com/2013/05/chanel-no-5-by-chanel-c1921.html

Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

 Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, arrived during a fascinating period characterized by dramatic shifts in art, culture, and society. The early 20th century, especially in the years leading up to World War I, was a time of innovation and change. The Art Nouveau movement was flourishing, influencing everything from architecture and jewelry to the design of everyday objects. This era saw a fascination with the exotic and the ancient, as Western society was increasingly enchanted by the mystique of past civilizations.

When François Coty marketed Ambre Antique, he tapped into the romanticism and fascination with ancient cultures, particularly that of Ancient Egypt. His claim that Ambre Antique was the perfume of "ancient Egypt and gilded queens" was not just a marketing strategy but a reflection of the era's broader cultural zeitgeist. This was a time when the discovery of Egyptian artifacts, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, captivated the world, although Coty's launch predates this discovery. Nonetheless, there was already a significant interest in Egyptology and the grandeur of ancient empires. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens." 

Ambergris, one of the key ingredients in Ambre Antique, has been treasured for centuries. This substance, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, was highly valued for its unique fragrance and rarity. In ancient times, and particularly in Ancient Egypt, ambergris was considered precious and was often used in perfumes and incense. Its scent was associated with luxury and divinity.

In Ancient Egypt, scents and perfumes held significant cultural and spiritual importance. Perfumes were not merely used for their pleasing aromas; they were integral to religious rituals, embalming processes, and personal grooming. Ambergris, with its musky and sweet smell, was highly prized. It was believed to have both physical and metaphysical properties, often used in ceremonies to honor the gods and in preparations for the afterlife.

Smitty by Coty c1976

The launch of Coty's Smitty perfume in 1976 coincided with a vibrant cultural moment marked by a sense of newfound freedom and liberation for women. This was the era of disco, where nightlife pulsated with energy, and social norms were loosening. Women were embracing their independence, asserting their identities, and challenging traditional roles.

The fragrance's marketing tapped into this spirit of liberation and freewheeling style. With its tagline "Smitty's the spirited, sexy new feeling in fragrance," it positioned itself as a symbol of empowerment and excitement. The choice of the name "Smitty" adds to its playful and enigmatic charm, suggesting a carefree and irreverent attitude.

The advertisement's tone, described as light-hearted, mischievous, and carefree, mirrored the ethos of the times. It celebrated spontaneity and self-expression, encouraging women to embrace their desires and revel in the moment. The phrase "When you're feeling so free, everybody can see, Smitty did it!" captures this sentiment, likening the experience of wearing the perfume to a liberating act that is both thrilling and visible to all.

In essence, Smitty perfume emerged as an emblem of the disco era, embodying the spirit of women's newfound freedom and the exuberance of the times. It became a popular choice among the younger crowd, serving as a fragrant expression of their desire for excitement and self-discovery.

Coty Perfumes 1954 Advertisement

Coty Perfumes 1954 Advertisement showing the following perfumes: Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Paris, Muguet des Bois, Chypre, Styx, and Muse.

Various items shown are Air-Spun face powder, Sub Deb lipstick, talc, dusting powder, special presentations, toilet water, purse bottles, compacts, cologne, Twiststick solid cologne stick and more.

Coty Perfume Ad c1949

Coty Perfume Ad c1949 showing the following perfumes: L'Aimant, Emeraude, L'origan, Paris, Muguet des Bois, Chypre, A'Suma, L'Origan, Muse and Le Vertige.

Curious finds: the Cinderella Slipper presentation, the Fragrance Bar, Toilet Water & Purser set, dusting powder, talc, toilet water, perfume, soap, etc.

A'Suma by Coty c1934

Transport yourself to France in the year 1934, a time when the world was still reeling from the aftermath of the First World War and on the brink of another global conflict. In this era, the Western world held a fascination with exotic locales in the Far East, such as Bali and Japan. These places were often seen through a romanticized lens, imbued with notions of mystery, sensuality, and adventure.

In the collective imagination of the Western populace, Bali was depicted as a paradisiacal island shrouded in the allure of the unknown. It was envisioned as a land of lush tropical landscapes, pristine beaches, and enchanting cultural traditions. Bali symbolized a retreat from the constraints of Western civilization, a place where one could indulge in exotic pleasures and escape the mundane realities of everyday life.

Japan, on the other hand, evoked images of ancient traditions, refined aesthetics, and enigmatic beauty. It was viewed as a land of contrasts, where modernity coexisted with timeless customs. The allure of Japan lay in its mystique, its rich history, and its ability to captivate the imagination with its blend of tradition and innovation.

 

Against this backdrop of fascination with the Far East, A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise" made its debut in France. Conjured up by the creative minds of François Coty and Vincent Roubert, this sensuous perfume transported its wearers to a moonlit tropical beach in Bali, evoking the intoxicating ambiance of this exotic locale. With its blend of aromatic notes and evocative imagery, A'Suma captured the essence of the Far East and allowed its users to experience a fleeting moment of escapism and indulgence.

1945 Advertisement for Coty Perfume and Powder

 Vintage 1945 Sears (Spring and Summer) catalog page advertising Coty perfumes and cosmetics.

L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Complice de Francois Coty c1973

In 1934, Francois Coty conceived Complice ('Accomplice'), a fragrance ahead of its time. However, fate intervened as Coty passed away before his creation could grace the market. For nearly four decades, Complice lay dormant, waiting for its moment to shine. In 1973, the Coty company finally unveiled this long-awaited gem, encased in a bottle echoing the design aesthetics of its inception era. The journey of Complice is one of perseverance and legacy, with its name officially trademarked in 1939, a testament to the company's assertion of its use since 1938.

In a masterful stroke of homage and revitalization, the Coty perfume company embarked on a journey to resurrect the illustrious legacy of its founder in the realm of perfumery. With the relaunch of Complice, Coty sought to reintroduce a touch of the glamour and sophistication for which the brand had long been celebrated.

The revival of Complice was more than just a reintroduction of a fragrance; it was a strategic move to elevate the Coty brand back to its esteemed position among high-end perfumes. By imbuing the presentation with elegance and refinement, Coty aimed to dispel any notion of its products being confined to the shelves of drugstores and discount shops. The meticulously designed bottles, reminiscent of the exquisite creations of the legendary Rene Lalique, served as a visual testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that defined Coty's perfumes.

In embracing the aesthetic sensibilities of Lalique, Coty reaffirmed the notion that perfume was not merely a commodity but a form of art. The intricate designs of the bottles mirrored the intricacies of the fragrances they contained, each element meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication.

With Complice, Coty invited the world to rediscover the allure of perfume as a symbol of elegance and indulgence. The relaunch was a statement of Coty's enduring commitment to excellence and innovation in the realm of fragrance, ensuring that its founder's legacy would continue to shine brightly in the annals of perfumery history.