L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Complice de Francois Coty c1973

In 1934, Francois Coty conceived Complice ('Accomplice'), a fragrance ahead of its time. However, fate intervened as Coty passed away before his creation could grace the market. For nearly four decades, Complice lay dormant, waiting for its moment to shine. In 1973, the Coty company finally unveiled this long-awaited gem, encased in a bottle echoing the design aesthetics of its inception era. The journey of Complice is one of perseverance and legacy, with its name officially trademarked in 1939, a testament to the company's assertion of its use since 1938.

In a masterful stroke of homage and revitalization, the Coty perfume company embarked on a journey to resurrect the illustrious legacy of its founder in the realm of perfumery. With the relaunch of Complice, Coty sought to reintroduce a touch of the glamour and sophistication for which the brand had long been celebrated.

The revival of Complice was more than just a reintroduction of a fragrance; it was a strategic move to elevate the Coty brand back to its esteemed position among high-end perfumes. By imbuing the presentation with elegance and refinement, Coty aimed to dispel any notion of its products being confined to the shelves of drugstores and discount shops. The meticulously designed bottles, reminiscent of the exquisite creations of the legendary Rene Lalique, served as a visual testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that defined Coty's perfumes.

In embracing the aesthetic sensibilities of Lalique, Coty reaffirmed the notion that perfume was not merely a commodity but a form of art. The intricate designs of the bottles mirrored the intricacies of the fragrances they contained, each element meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication.

With Complice, Coty invited the world to rediscover the allure of perfume as a symbol of elegance and indulgence. The relaunch was a statement of Coty's enduring commitment to excellence and innovation in the realm of fragrance, ensuring that its founder's legacy would continue to shine brightly in the annals of perfumery history.

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Le Vertige by Coty c1906

"Le Vertige" by Coty, debuted in 1906, encapsulates the vibrant spirit of its time, mirroring the dynamic performances of dance troupes and ballets. Picture a stage alive with the graceful ballet dancers and the spirited can-can performers, all swirling together in a dizzying whirl of excitement that echoes the fragrance's essence. Just as dancers enchant their audience with choreographed elegance, "Le Vertige" captivates with its lively blend of scents, inviting wearers to immerse themselves in the exhilarating rhythm of the dance.

Crafted by Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief perfumer, "Le Vertige," pronounced "LEH-VAIR-TEEJH," embodies the lively, dizzying tempo of dance. Its name, meaning "dizziness" in French, vividly portrays the energetic atmosphere reminiscent of the era's dance troupes and ballets.

Masumi Toujours by Coty c2001

Masumi Toujours, a fragrance introduced by Coty in 2001, is a contemporary interpretation and extension of the classic Masumi fragrance, which debuted in 1967. As a flanker scent, Masumi Toujours builds upon the timeless essence of its predecessor while infusing it with modern elements, creating a scent that pays homage to the original yet stands out with its own unique character. It captures the essence of enduring elegance while embracing the spirit of the present, making it a captivating choice for those seeking a blend of tradition and innovation in their fragrance experience.

Masumi Je T'aime by Coty c2003

"Masumi Je T'aime by Coty," introduced in 2003, is a captivating fragrance that builds upon the legacy of Coty's iconic perfume, Masumi, which debuted in 1967. Serving as a flanker scent, Masumi Je T'aime embodies a modern interpretation of its predecessor, infusing it with contemporary notes and nuances while retaining the essence that made the original Masumi timeless. It's a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, designed to evoke feelings of love and allure with each delightful spritz.

Eau Masumi by Coty c1993

Introducing Eau Masumi by Coty, a fragrant testament to the refined tastes of 1990s women. Released in 1993 as a companion to Coty's iconic 1967 fragrance, Masumi, this exquisite scent represents a departure from the bold and heady aromas of previous decades. Eau Masumi offers a delicate and nuanced olfactory experience, catering to the preference for lighter scents among modern women.  

Emeraude by Coty c1918

Emeraude by Coty, launched in 1918 and crafted by the visionary perfumer François Coty, is a fragrance steeped in historical significance and cultural reverence. Pronounced "EM-AIR-ODE," the name itself, meaning "emerald" in French, hints at the rich narrative that inspired its creation.

In the early 20th century, François Coty was captivated by the ancient Persian culture, particularly their veneration of the emerald. The Persians, renowned for their sophisticated civilization and deep appreciation for the arts and sciences, held emeralds in high esteem. These precious stones were not merely ornamental but were believed to possess profound mystical powers. They were often housed in temples, symbolizing divine protection and happiness.

Against the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by turmoil and longing for beauty and stability, Coty sought to infuse his creations with a sense of wonder and escapism. His fascination with Persian legends and the emerald's reputed ability to bring divine happiness provided the perfect muse.

The post-war era, characterized by a yearning for peace and a return to elegance, found a perfect expression in Emeraude. Coty's goal was ambitious: to encapsulate the allure and mystique of the emerald, transforming its essence into a sensory experience. Emeraude was more than a fragrance; it was an olfactory representation of the emerald's soul, designed to evoke the same reverence and enchantment that the Persians felt towards their treasured jewels.

 

Launched during a time when modern perfumery was beginning to blossom, Emeraude stood out with its complex blend, balancing citrus top notes with a warm, spicy heart and a sensual, woody base. This composition was groundbreaking, setting a new standard for luxury fragrances. It invited wearers to embark on a journey through time and space, connecting them to the ancient Persian mystique while offering a modern sense of luxury and sophistication.

In essence, Emeraude by Coty is not just a perfume; it is a narrative encapsulated in a bottle, bridging the historical reverence of Persian culture with the early 20th century's desire for beauty and serenity amidst chaos. François Coty's creation remains a testament to the timeless allure of the emerald and the enduring power of storytelling in perfumery.

Coty 1935 Perfume Presentations Ad

Coffret No. 22 - Crystal flacon of Chypre, Le Lilas Blanc or Le Nouveau Gardenia.

Coffret No. 23 - This flacon was used for l'Aimant, L'Origan. Le Muguet and Paris.

Flacon for A'Suma, available in two sizes.

No. 8601 - flacon and "platinum finished" compact housed inside a "shagreen" box.

No. 21 - Presentation holding Bath Salts, Bath Dusting Powder, Toilet Soap and Eau de Cologne.

Emeraude Catalog Numbers c1932

From a 1932 Coty Catalog, with original prices noted.

Emeraude Essence

• 4099 - 8 ml flacon...retail $1.00
• 4097 - 16 ml flacon...retail $2.00
• 4096 - 32 ml flacon, fancy box...retail $3.75
• 4000 - 50 ml crystal flacon, green leather case...retail $7.50 (shown in photo above)
• 4001 - 50 ml crystal flacon, tasseled box ...retail $7.25 (shown in photo above)
• 4002 - 102 ml- crystal flacon, green leather case...retail $15.00
• 4003 - 102 ml - crystal flacon, grey suede box ...retail $15.00
• 4004 - 125 ml - flacon, corrugated carton...retail $12.50
• 4004bis - 200 ml - crystal flacon, embossed box...retail $18.00
• C4004bis - 200 ml - crystal flacon, green leather case...retail $25.00
• 4004ter - 335 ml - crystal flacon, blue leather case...retail $50.00
• 4005 - 250 ml - flacon, corrugated carton...retail $24.00

Metal Purse Containers

• 4099M - 8 ml flacon-platinum-toned...retail $1.50
• 4099G - 8 ml flacon- gold plated ...retail $5.00

Also created in:

• Face Powder
• Compacts
• Refills
• Toilet Water
• Dusting Powder
• Talcum
• Sachet
• Bath Salts
• Brilliantine
• Lotion for the Hair
• Soap

Frosted Talc Flacons

Frosted glass talcum flacon, brass shaker lid, gold foil label. Not made by Lalique, but made by Coty's own glassworks. The brass screw cap opens by turning the top of the cap left or right to reveal the shaker holes. The base of the bottle is embossed with "COTY." The bottle stands just under 5 1/8 inches.

Information from a 1932 Coty catalog, complete with original retail prices.

Serial No. 93 - in Bottles-Blanche. Retail price $1.00

• Available in all odors except Heliotrope, Jacinthe and Ambreine

Serial No. 93 - in Bottles-Rose. Retail price $1.00

Available in:

• L’Origan No. 1193
• Paris No. 3093
• L’Aimant No. 293
• Chypre No. 193
• Emeraude No. 4093
• Styx No. 2193
• La Rose Jacqueminot No. 993

Briar Flacons

Lalique designed flacon, made by Coty's own glassworks, featuring frosted "briar" motif stopper. Information from a 1932 Coty catalog, complete with original retail prices. Starting with the lowest price perfumes to the most expensive perfumes.

Toilette Water
Eau de Toilette in Embossed Box

• No. 08 - In Decorated Boxes, 105ml...retail $3.25
• No. 09 - In Decorated Boxes, 210ml...retail $6.25
• No. 10 - Corrugated Boxes, 425ml...retail $11.00
• No. 11 - Corrugated Boxes, 750ml...retail $21.00

In the following odors:

• Lilas Blanc
• Heliotrope
• Violette
• Jacinthe

Toilette Water
Eau de Toilette in Embossed Box

• No. 08 - In Decorated Boxes, 105ml...retail $4.00
• No. 09 - In Decorated Boxes, 210ml...retail $7.00
• No. 10 - Corrugated Boxes, 425ml...retail $13.00
• No. 11 - Corrugated Boxes, 750ml...retail $25.00

In the following odors:

• L’Origan
• L’Aimant
• Chypre
• Violette Pourpre
• La Rose Jacqueminot
• Iris
• Ambreine
• L’Oeillet France
• Cyclamen
• Lilas Pourpre
• L’Or
• Paris
• Emeraude
• La Jacee
• Muguet

Toilette Water
Eau de Toilette in Embossed Box

• No. 08 - In Decorated Boxes, 105ml...retail $4.25
• No. 09 - In Decorated Boxes, 210ml...retail $7.25
• No. 10 - Corrugated Boxes, 425ml...retail $14.00
• No. 11 - Corrugated Boxes, 750ml...retail $27.00

In the following odors:

• Jasmin de Corse
• L’Effleurt
• L’Ambre Antique
• Styx

L'Origan Catalog Numbers c1932

From a 1932 Coty Catalog, with original prices noted.

L’Origan Essence

• 1097 - 8 ml flacon...retail $1.00
• 1098 - 16 ml flacon...retail $2.00
• 1099 - 32 ml flacon, fancy box...retail $3.75
• 1100 - 50 ml crystal flacon, red leather case...retail $7.50 (shown in photo above)
• 1101 - 50 ml crystal flacon, gold leaf tasseled box ...retail $7.00 (shown in photo above)
• 1102 - 102 ml- crystal flacon, red leather case...retail $15.00
• 1103 - 102 ml - crystal flacon, gold leaf tasseled box ...retail $14.00
• 1104 - 125 ml - flacon, corrugated carton...retail $12.50
• 1104bis - 200 ml - crystal flacon, embossed box...retail $18.00
• C1104bis - 200 ml - crystal flacon, red leather case...retail $25.00
• 1104ter - 335 ml - crystal flacon, blue leather case...retail $50.00
• 1105 - 250 ml - flacon, corrugated carton...retail $24.00

Metal Purse Containers

• 1199M - 8 ml flacon-platinum-toned...retail $1.50
• 1199G - 8 ml flacon- gold plated ...retail $5.00

Also created in:

• Face Powder
• Compacts
• Refills
• Toilet Water
• Dusting Powder
• Talcum
• Sachet
• Bath Salts
• Brilliantine
• Lotion for the Hair
• Soap

Coty Compacts c1932

Coty Cygnet (Swan) Perfume Presentations

Coty's Cygnet perfume presentations are adorned with two gilded or silver finished plastic swans holding a small purse perfume flacon and Sub Deb lipstick, and the trio also includes an Air Spun scented face powder compact.

The perfume bottles are frosted glass and have an Art Nouveau flair to them which can make some people mistake them for Lalique bottles, however, these were not made by Lalique, they were made by Coty's own glassworks.

These presentations date to the early 1950s.

LIFE, 1952:

"Coty Cygnet Trio...$5.00
Coty Cygnet Duo...$3.25"

Cygnet Trio for Emeraude.

Cygnet Trio for Paris, photo from ebay

Coty Fragrance Bar Perfume Presentation

Coty's  Fragrance Bar was a Perfume Presentation holding three perfumes inside of a lucite tantalus, complete with a chain and lock, and was available in L'Origan, L'Aimant, Emeraude, Paris and Muguet des Bois.

Ellie Lipstick and Powder Presentation

LIFE, 1952:

"ELLIE”.., gay, spangled little elephant bearing two ever- welcome gifts from the Coty Christmas Parade! A fluted golden Sub Deb lipstick — plus famous Coty "Air Spun" Face Powder. Put "Ellie" first on your list PARIS, L'AIMANT, L'ORIGAN, EMERAUDE, PARIS."

Another 1942 Coty Perfume Presentation Ad

Vigilante Kit - 9 beauty and charm aids $3.95

Sabots - 2 Perfumes; shoes are pincushions - $5

 Paris:

$2.85 - Toilet Water, Vanity

$7.50 - Case of 7 Luxuries

$15 - Rich perfumed splendor

$4.75 - Five fine gifts in one

Emeraude:

$5.25 - Perfume, 4 related items, atomizer

$16.50 - Charm Chest - choicest Coty aids

$2.50 Jewel Vanity , Air Spun powder

$4.75 - Big Five - each is a gift in itself

 Flights of Fancy in Fragrance:

Jewel Tree - $12.50

Fleur du lac - $12.50

Toboggan - $10

Garden Cart - $7.50

L’Origan:

$8.00 - Big, satin-lined treasure chest

$3.95 - Air Spun Makeup vanity

$5.00 - Exciting bath and beauty aids

$3.75 - Makeup Trio, Toilet Water

L’Aimant:

$5.00 - Quintet in shimmering red-gold scheme

$10.25 - Glamorous - yet practical selection

$2.25 - Air Spun Makeup in gift case

$4.25 - Rich looking! Perfume, matched aids.

1941 Coty Perfume Presentations Ad

Ferris Wheel..A divinely giddy gadget, to hold Coty Chypre. L’Aimantg, Paris, Emeraude and L’Origan. $10.

Sleigh. Romantic setting for two romantic perfume blends - Coty L’Origan and L’Aimant. $3.95

Weathervane. If she’s changeable, give her four famous fragrances: Emeraude, Paris, L’Origan and L’Aimant. $5.00

1942 Coty Perfume Presentations Ad

Guard of Honor for two bottles of L’Aimant and Paris $5.00

Jewel Tree bears Emeraude, Styx, L’Aimant , Paris, Chypre. $12.50

Fleur du Lac, setting for a shimmering flacon of L’Origan. $12.50

Toboggan with a crew of L’Aimant, Paris and Emeraude, Styx. $10.00

Garden Cart carries Styx, Paris and Muguet des Bois. $7.50

Sabots (Dutch clogs/shoes) filled with chunky bottles of Paris and Emeraude. $5.00

Coty Coolness

The New Yorker, Volume 14, Issues 14-26, 1938:

"Cloak Yourself in Coolness. For Coty offers Bath Luxuries that wrap you in a cloak of invisible, fragrant freshness. They are richly endowed with true Coty odeurs...L'Aimant, L'Origan,“Paris,” Styx, Emeraude...Even their packages shimmer with coolness; bubbles and starfish suggest Neptune's green realm."

3.40 oz Styx Eau de Toilette Parfumee, photo from Quirky Finds

Coty Mam'selle Perfume Presentation c1950

The New Yorker - Volume 26, Part 4 - Page 138, 1950:

"Coty's Mam'selle, a pert Victorian doll under a plastic bell with a box of face powder under her feet and a one-dram flacon of any of Coty's perfumes stuck in her muff, costs $6. "

photo from fragrantica member kiku

Where Should I Apply Perfume?

As a general rule, fragrance should be applied to pulse points. This is where the blood vessels are closest to the skin giving off more heat and acting like mini fragrance pumps.

Pulse points are the wrist, crook of the arm and back of the knee, and the base of the throat. Also, for long lasting fragrance spray at the ankles, it allows the fragrance to blossom up. For a sexy twist, apply perfume to your cleavage or spray perfume on your nude body before dressing. The nape of the neck, is a very romantic area, whenever your hair moves it might swish the perfume around, nice little subtle trail of perfumed loveliness.

Apply perfume right after you take a shower or bath. Your pores are more open then and will more easily soak up the scent. Some people say that rubbing the wrists together will crush the scent, I tried this with different perfumes over the course of two weeks, just to see if its true, it seemed to me that the friction of rubbing the wrists together actually heated up the fragrances and made them seem more potent.

I have read though that the perfume can react not so nicely to the first layer of skin...and give off a smell that isn't pleasant. Others say that to spray the perfume in the air and then walk into it, I have done this before, and it seems that it lets you control the amount of fragrance that is applied to your skin, rather than spraying directly onto the skin, this works best with heavier perfumes.

I spray perfumes on my clothes when I want to make the scent last longer, I won't spray perfume on fragile fabrics like silks or lace. You can spray your coat with perfume. Also an old tip is to apply pure parfum extrait to your furs. Doing this is up to your own discretion.

Do not apply perfume after you put your jewelry on, take it off first, then apply the perfume. The chemicals in perfume can leave stains or have chemical reactions to the metals, Pearls are especially susceptible to damage from perfume since it destroys their lustre.

Coco Chanel always said to apply perfume where you want to be kissed. I read an old perfume guide from the 1930s and it mentioned that you can apply perfume to your fingertips and eyebrows. Also apply perfume to a cotton ball and tuck it into your brassiere. Apply perfume to your hankies or gloves.

Jeanne Lanvin of Lanvin Perfumes suggested that you should apply perfume wherever your clothes cover your body, that way it will seem if it is coming from within and blend with the natural oils of your skin to make a truly individual fragrance. She also says the best time to apply perfume is 15 or 20 minutes before you are about to go out, that way the perfume has time to "set".

A 1924 ad for Ann Haviland perfumes suggests:

#1. to apply perfume to your eyebrows as the short hairs of the eyebrows retain the perfume longer than the skin since evaporation takes place more slowly.Besides, this is an ideal two-some,the girl usually comes up to a man's chin, not far below his nose.

#2. One little known method of applying perfume is to saturate a piece of cotton with your chosen scent, place it under the shoulder strap of your slip. Body heat releases an aura about you.

#3. A glamorous method of using perfume is to spray it on the hem of your evening gown, then as you walk or dance, the fragrance is wafted into the air around you. This is the best way to do it.

#4. Another pointer is to apply perfume to the inside of your gloves, while your gloves are on, the warmth of your hands attract the perfume which will cling to the fingers.

La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty c1902

During the Edwardian era, garden parties reigned as the epitome of social gatherings among the elite. These events, steeped in tradition and elegance, provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing the latest floral marvels, including the coveted Jacqueminot rose. As guests mingled amidst the lush blooms, sipping on cool drinks, and indulging in dainty treats served al fresco, the successful blooming of the Jacqueminot rose stood as a testament to the host's horticultural prowess and status within polite society.

In the picturesque settings of these lively garden parties, elegant women adorned themselves in ethereal white lawn dresses, known as lingerie dresses, evoking a sense of timeless grace and sophistication. Their ensembles were complemented by large wide-brimmed picture hats, adorned with whimsical accents such as stuffed birds and blooming flowers, anchored in place by long, fancy hat pins.

As they chatted away amidst the fragrant blooms, these women may have held delicate hand-painted porcelain cups in one hand, savoring the refreshing taste of sweet iced tea or lemonade, while using a fancy hand fan in the other to cool off from the summer heat. Their attire was completed with pristine white gloves, adding a touch of refinement to their ensemble.

The tables were adorned with lace tablecloths, polished silver flatware, and sparkling crystal lemonade pitchers, creating an atmosphere of opulence and elegance. Amidst this scene of sophistication, the delicate aroma of the Jacqueminot rose lingered in the air, adding a layer of romantic allure to the festivities. With every breath, guests were transported to a realm of timeless beauty and refined luxury, where the essence of the rose intertwined seamlessly with the splendor of the garden party.

La Rose Jacqueminot, with its rich, floral scent, would have been well-received in this context. Named after the highly fragrant breed of roses, the perfume evoked a sense of luxury and romance. The association with the Napoleonic era added to its allure, tapping into the nostalgia for a romanticized past.

The popularity of La Rose Jacqueminot perfume mirrored the fascination with the Jacqueminot rose, capturing the essence of its exquisite fragrance and timeless beauty. Just as guests reveled in the splendor of the flowering garden at these garden parties, so too did wearers of the perfume immerse themselves in the allure of its romantic aroma, evoking images of sun-drenched garden paths and vibrant blossoms in full bloom.

Against the backdrop of these esteemed gatherings, where society loosened its reins and embraced the joys of nature and camaraderie, the Jacqueminot rose emerged as a cherished centerpiece, admired by all who beheld its radiant blooms. Its delicate petals, imbued with the essence of La Rose Jacqueminot, added a touch of elegance and refinement to the festivities, ensuring that these garden parties remained unforgettable affairs, steeped in beauty, grace, and the timeless allure of the rose.

 

In the United States, where La Rose Jacqueminot was introduced by 1906, the perfume would have been particularly popular among the growing middle class, who aspired to the lifestyle and glamour associated with European perfumes.