La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty c1902

During the Edwardian era, garden parties reigned as the epitome of social gatherings among the elite. These events, steeped in tradition and elegance, provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing the latest floral marvels, including the coveted Jacqueminot rose. As guests mingled amidst the lush blooms, sipping on cool drinks, and indulging in dainty treats served al fresco, the successful blooming of the Jacqueminot rose stood as a testament to the host's horticultural prowess and status within polite society.

In the picturesque settings of these lively garden parties, elegant women adorned themselves in ethereal white lawn dresses, known as lingerie dresses, evoking a sense of timeless grace and sophistication. Their ensembles were complemented by large wide-brimmed picture hats, adorned with whimsical accents such as stuffed birds and blooming flowers, anchored in place by long, fancy hat pins.

As they chatted away amidst the fragrant blooms, these women may have held delicate hand-painted porcelain cups in one hand, savoring the refreshing taste of sweet iced tea or lemonade, while using a fancy hand fan in the other to cool off from the summer heat. Their attire was completed with pristine white gloves, adding a touch of refinement to their ensemble.

The tables were adorned with lace tablecloths, polished silver flatware, and sparkling crystal lemonade pitchers, creating an atmosphere of opulence and elegance. Amidst this scene of sophistication, the delicate aroma of the Jacqueminot rose lingered in the air, adding a layer of romantic allure to the festivities. With every breath, guests were transported to a realm of timeless beauty and refined luxury, where the essence of the rose intertwined seamlessly with the splendor of the garden party.

La Rose Jacqueminot, with its rich, floral scent, would have been well-received in this context. Named after the highly fragrant breed of roses, the perfume evoked a sense of luxury and romance. The association with the Napoleonic era added to its allure, tapping into the nostalgia for a romanticized past.

The popularity of La Rose Jacqueminot perfume mirrored the fascination with the Jacqueminot rose, capturing the essence of its exquisite fragrance and timeless beauty. Just as guests reveled in the splendor of the flowering garden at these garden parties, so too did wearers of the perfume immerse themselves in the allure of its romantic aroma, evoking images of sun-drenched garden paths and vibrant blossoms in full bloom.

Against the backdrop of these esteemed gatherings, where society loosened its reins and embraced the joys of nature and camaraderie, the Jacqueminot rose emerged as a cherished centerpiece, admired by all who beheld its radiant blooms. Its delicate petals, imbued with the essence of La Rose Jacqueminot, added a touch of elegance and refinement to the festivities, ensuring that these garden parties remained unforgettable affairs, steeped in beauty, grace, and the timeless allure of the rose.

 

In the United States, where La Rose Jacqueminot was introduced by 1906, the perfume would have been particularly popular among the growing middle class, who aspired to the lifestyle and glamour associated with European perfumes.

The Beginning:

François Coty's journey to success with La Rose Jacqueminot is a tale of determination, ingenuity, and a touch of theatrical flair. Despite facing initial resistance from department stores, Coty's unwavering belief in his perfume ultimately led to a pivotal moment of triumph.

In a bold attempt to capture the attention of Henri de Villemessant, the director of Le Grands Magasins du Louvre, Coty sought to secure an order for his fragrance. However, when de Villemessant refused to grant him an audience, Coty devised a daring plan to make an unforgettable impression. Returning to the store a few days later, he dramatically flung a Baccarat crystal perfume flacon onto the floor of the cosmetics department, causing it to shatter and releasing the captivating fragrance into the air. The potent aroma instantly intrigued and captivated everyone present, including de Villemessant, who was compelled to inquire about the perfume that had caused such a commotion. This bold act catapulted Coty into the spotlight and marked the beginning of his illustrious career in the world of perfumery.

Rumors suggest that Coty may have employed additional tactics to generate buzz around his perfume, including hiring women to feign frenzied curiosity about the fragrance. Furthermore, Coty's connection to the department store through his mother-in-law likely played a role in facilitating his breakthrough, showcasing the importance of personal connections in the business world.

Following the successful demonstration at Le Louvre, Coty swiftly secured an order for La Rose Jacqueminot, which he and his wife, Yvonne, diligently fulfilled overnight in their modest apartment-turned-perfume factory. Yvonne, drawing on her skills as a milliner, meticulously crafted silk perfume pouches to accompany the bottles, adding an extra touch of elegance and allure. Employing a technique known as baudruchage, she adorned the bottles with gold string and binding, enhancing their visual appeal and further captivating customers.

The response to La Rose Jacqueminot was nothing short of extraordinary, with Le Louvre alone ordering a significant quantity of bottles. Within days, demand for the perfume soared, with 500 bottles sold in a remarkably short span of time. This remarkable success marked just the beginning of Coty's illustrious career and cemented La Rose Jacqueminot as a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, tea rose, Bulgarian rose, jacqueminot rose, green accord
• Middle notes: jasmine, cabbage rose (rosa centifolia), damask rose, violet, ylang ylang, honey, orange blossom, lavender, cloves, nutmeg, cardamom
• Base notes: oakmoss, ambergris, Indian musk, Mysore sandalwood, tobacco

 

In the early stages of crafting La Rose Jacqueminot, François Coty seized a unique opportunity when he acquired a substantial stock of rose essence from Alber Camili, a renowned essential oil manufacturer. This serendipitous acquisition came about as a result of Alber Camili's unfortunate bankruptcy, which led to the liquidation of their inventory at remarkably affordable prices. Coty, recognizing the potential of this treasure trove of rose essence made more accessible by the company's financial turmoil, wasted no time in purchasing vast quantities in bulk.

At the heart of La Rose Jacqueminot's formulation lies the exquisite Alber Camili rose absolute, a precious essence renowned for its rich and captivating fragrance. This essence, obtained from the delicate petals of the rose, served as the cornerstone of the perfume's olfactory profile, infusing it with an unparalleled depth and complexity. Coty, leveraging the abundance of this prized ingredient, sought to create a fragrance that would showcase the sheer opulence and allure of the rose in all its splendor.

François Coty meticulously composed La Rose Jacqueminot into a warm floral perfume that drew upon the precious attars of various cabbage roses. He focused on the rich and aromatic "Jacqueminot," the lush "Paul Neyron," and the iconic "American Beauty" varieties. These roses, celebrated for their robust and captivating scents, formed the heart of Coty's creation, infusing the perfume with a depth and complexity that mirrored the elegance of the Edwardian era's most exquisite garden parties.

To complement the sublime essence of the Alber Camili rose, Coty incorporated two key bases into the fragrance's composition: Rhodinol and Ionone. Rhodinol, a product manufactured by Rhone-Poulenc, represented a masterful blend of the primary constituents found in both rose and geranium oil. This innovative base not only enhanced the floral bouquet of the perfume but also imparted a distinctive freshness and vibrancy to its overall character.

In addition to Rhodinol, Coty integrated Ionone, a synthetic violet chemical crafted by De Laire, into the fragrance formula. Ionone, originating from a groundbreaking discovery made by Tiemann and Kruger in 1898, offered a captivating floral note reminiscent of delicate violets in bloom. Its inclusion in La Rose Jacqueminot added a subtle yet enchanting layer to the perfume, contributing to its multifaceted aroma and ensuring a truly unforgettable olfactory experience.

Through skillful utilization of these exquisite ingredients, François Coty succeeded in crafting a fragrance that transcended mere scent, capturing the essence of romance, luxury, and timeless elegance. La Rose Jacqueminot, with its opulent blend of rose absolute, Rhodinol, and Ionone, emerged as a masterpiece of perfumery, captivating the senses and leaving an indelible impression on all who encountered its enchanting aroma.

Scent Profile:

Step into the enchanting world of La Rose Jacqueminot, where the air is imbued with the intoxicating aroma of warm, floral notes. Picture yourself wandering through a sunlit garden party, surrounded by lush blooms and delicate petals dancing in the breeze. With each inhalation, you're greeted by a symphony of scents that captivate the senses and transport you to a realm of timeless beauty and elegance.

At the forefront of this olfactory journey are the top notes, where aldehydes mingle with the exquisite essence of tea rose, Bulgarian rose, and jacqueminot rose. These roses, each with its unique character, blend harmoniously to create a bouquet that is at once fresh, vibrant, and utterly captivating. A green accord adds a touch of verdant freshness, evoking the sensation of walking through a garden in full bloom.

As you delve deeper into the heart of the fragrance, you discover a rich tapestry of floral delights. Jasmine, with its heady aroma, intertwines with the velvety petals of cabbage rose and the timeless allure of damask rose. Violet adds a powdery, ethereal quality, while ylang ylang lends a creamy, exotic undertone. Spices such as cloves, nutmeg, and cardamom infuse the bouquet with warmth and depth, evoking a sense of cozy intimacy and intrigue.

Finally, the base notes provide a solid foundation upon which the floral and spicy accords can unfold. Oakmoss anchors the fragrance with its earthy, mossy aroma, while ambergris adds a smooth, animalic quality. Indian musk lends a subtle, musky warmth, and Mysore sandalwood brings a luxurious, velvety texture. A hint of tobacco adds a smoky, slightly sweet note, completing the fragrance with a touch of sophistication.

Inhale deeply, and let the creamy, dark, and rich honeyed rose of La Rose Jacqueminot envelop you in its embrace, transporting you to a realm where every note unfolds like a love letter to the senses.

What Others Said:

In 1907, an advertisement proudly presents Coty's La Rose Jacqueminot as an exquisite pure odor of the American Beauty Rose, encapsulated in 1-ounce cut glass bottles and accompanied by miniature satin sachets, all for the modest price of $3.00. This ad appeals to the refined sensibilities of the readers, emphasizing the luxury and sophistication of the fragrance.

A 1907 ad reads:

"Coty's La Rose Jacqueminot an exquisite pure odor of the American Beauty Rose in 1 ounce cut glass bottles and with miniature satin sachet $3.00 "

"La Rose Jacqueminot," a fragrance immortalized in the Times Herald of 1925 as "the transfused sighs of a thousand roses blowing on the southern slopes of France," evokes imagery of troubadours and Provence, with masquers gay and colorful dancing amidst the tantalizing pathways of a maze. It embodies the essence of a woman with honey-colored hair and a mischievous glint in her eyes, exuding delicious impudence and eternal coquetry.

The Times Herald, 1925:

"La Rose Jacqueminot: The transfused sighs of a thousand roses blowing on the southern slopes of France. Troubadours and Provence - Masquers gay and colourful- laughing, backward glances; Escape and capture in the tantalizing pathways of the maze - Little red heels tapping in the dance. Fragrant essence of the woman with honey-colored hair and a laughing imp in her eyes, of delicious impudence, ever the coquette."

In 1925, an advertisement recommends "La Rose Jacqueminot" alongside other fragrances like L'Effleurt and L'Or, specifically tailored for blondes. The following year's ad describes it as glamorous and lovely, the quintessential perfume of the rose, symbolizing love and adorableness.

A 1925 ad reads:

"For Blondes: L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot & L'Or."

A 1926 ad reads:

"La Rose Jacqueminot:- glamorous, lovely, the perfect perfume of the rose, flower of love and true symbol of adorable women."

Fast forward to 1937, Marie-Claire magazine describes La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty as warm and discreet, portraying a woman who cherishes her household, her husband, and her children. Referencing Leon-Paul Fargue's words, the ad suggests that this fragrance embodies the essence of a woman who possesses the skill to create beauty and warmth in every aspect of her life.

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty: Warm and discreet. She prefers her entire household, her husband, her children. She knows how to make 'a bouquet, a hem, a stew' (Leon-Paul Fargue)."

In 1954, Combat magazine eloquently extols the virtues of Eau La Rose Jacqueminot de Coty, celebrating the cerebral pleasure evoked by the scent of the rose. Describing it as red, vigorous, fervent, and prosperous, the ad paints a vivid picture of a fragrance nourished by the richness of summer. The perfume is likened to a song of joy and triumph, evoking the melodic effusions of a nightingale on a moonlit night, particularly enchanting when adorning a young woman in tulle amidst the silvered steps of the Grand Meaulnes.

Combat, 1954:

"Eau La Rose Jacqueminot de Coty: There is a cerebral pleasure in the smell of the rose. The one we call Jacqueminot is red, vigorous, fervent, prosperous. The richness of summers nourishes its pollen. Its perfume is a song of joy, alacrity and triumphant, which makes one think of the great sonorous effusions of the nightingale. Is that why I love it above all at night, on a young woman sparkling in tulle, when the arrows of the moon silver the steps of the Grand Meaulnes."

Personal Perfumes:

The 1920s and 1930s marked an era of intriguing marketing strategies within the perfume industry, where perfumers tailored their fragrances to suit different complexion types, hair colors, personalities, and moods. These tactics aimed to create a personal connection between women and their chosen scents, tapping into the desire for individuality and self-expression.

For blondes, perfumers recommended light, delicate fragrances such as Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. These scents were thought to complement the ethereal beauty and sunny disposition often associated with blonde hair.

On the other hand, brunettes were advised to embrace heavier, more opulent Oriental perfumes like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. These fragrances were believed to enhance the richness and depth of brunette hair and the mysterious allure often associated with darker features.

Red-haired women were encouraged to opt for fragrances that complemented their fiery personalities and unique charm. Scents like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen were recommended to accentuate the vibrant and distinctive nature of red hair.

Alternatively, some perfumers suggested that women choose their perfumes based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical attributes. For those of a sunny and joyous disposition, fragrances like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended, while those with dreamy and elusive personalities might prefer Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc.

Exotic types were directed towards fragrances like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, which evoked a sense of adventure and intrigue. Mysterious personalities were encouraged to explore scents such as Styx, Cyclamen, and Ambre Antique, which added an air of enigma and allure.

For those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were suggested, exuding elegance and refinement.

These marketing techniques successfully appealed to consumers, leading to the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, whether as personal indulgences or thoughtful gifts for others. They tapped into the desire for individuality and self-expression, offering women the opportunity to choose fragrances that resonated with their unique identities and moods.

 

Bottles:

Baccarat played a pivotal role in the early production of La Rose Jacqueminot, supplying the large containers and eventually crafting thousands of the iconic slim, classic bottles that are now synonymous with the scent. As the fragrance gained popularity, it found a new home in elegant bottles designed by the renowned Rene Lalique. The transition from Baccarat to Lalique bottles marked a shift towards even greater sophistication and refinement.

In the early days, the labels for La Rose Jacqueminot were meticulously designed and engraved by Yvonne's brothers Henri and Paul, along with their uncle, Alphee. However, as Lalique's bottles became the preferred choice, newer labels were created by Lalique himself to adorn his exquisite creations. After 1920, Coty established his own glassworks in Pantin to produce the bottles, ensuring complete control over the quality and design. These flacons were then complemented with presentation cases crafted at Coty's boxing factory in Neuilly, further enhancing the luxurious appeal of the fragrance.

Following the initial success of La Rose Jacqueminot, Coty embarked on a larger production run with the acquisition of Laloue factory inventory from Grasse. This expansion was made possible through the support of Frederick Firmenich, who supplied Coty with ingredients on credit, facilitating the creation of this beloved perfume on a larger scale.

The exquisite Baccarat crystal flacon, adorned with a glittering lapidary stopper, remains a rare and cherished artifact of La Rose Jacqueminot's heritage. Available in two sizes, 4 1/2" tall and [size not specified], these bottles serve as timeless symbols of the enduring allure and elegance of this iconic fragrance.

A delightful addition to the La Rose Jacqueminot collection was the creation of a purse-size bottle, elegantly presented in a hinged metal case. Standing at a charming height of 2 3/4 inches, this compact yet luxurious bottle was designed for the woman on the go, allowing her to carry her favorite fragrance with ease and style. The bottle features a stopper molded with intricate flower and ridge details, adding a touch of refinement to its design.

For those seeking a more substantial option for their boudoir, a larger size bottle was also introduced, standing at an impressive 6 inches tall. These grander bottles exuded an air of sophistication and grace, becoming a statement piece in any dressing area or vanity.

Notably, these exquisite bottles were not exclusive to La Rose Jacqueminot alone but were also utilized for other Coty perfumes, further showcasing their versatility and timeless appeal across the brand's fragrance offerings. Whether nestled in a dainty metal case or gracing the vanity with its grand presence, each bottle encapsulated the essence of luxury and elegance, enhancing the overall experience of indulging in the enchanting aroma of La Rose Jacqueminot.

The larger boudoir size is shown below.

Fate of the Fragrance:

La Rose Jacqueminot, despite its enduring popularity stretching into the 1950s, experienced a period of discontinuation before its surprising revival in 1986. Coty's relaunch of this beloved fragrance came as part of The Chateau Collection, a set that also included two other forgotten scents: Chypre and Muse (rechristened as Les Muses).

In this reimagining, the original fragrances were modernized to align with the tastes of the 1986 woman. However, it's worth noting that the full parfum concentrations were not released, as they were deemed "too heady for modern tastes." Instead, the reformulated versions aimed to capture the essence of the originals while catering to contemporary preferences, offering a lighter and more wearable interpretation.

The setting and inspiration for the collection's display and advertising were drawn from the historic Chateau D'Artigny, which held significant significance as the former estate of Coty in France. This choice of setting added an air of sophistication and elegance to the relaunch, evoking the timeless beauty and romance associated with La Rose Jacqueminot and its companions. Through The Chateau Collection, Coty sought to reintroduce these classic fragrances to a new generation of perfume enthusiasts while paying homage to their rich heritage and legacy.

1986 Relaunch:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Rich, full bodied floral of roses and jasmine, enhanced with warm woody notes of sandalwood and oakmoss.

• Top notes: citrus
• Middle notes: jasmine, roses
• Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood

La Rose Jacqueminot was available in 1 oz eau de parfum splash for $12.50 and 1.75 oz eau de toilette spray for $10.00. A gift set included a bottle of eau de parfum, and purse atomizer and a funnel to decant the edp splash into the atomizer, this set retailed for $17.50.
A wonderful advertisement packed inside the box reads:

“The Chateau Collection - Now Every Woman Can Have a French Accent!
$5.00 for all three, regularly $11.25. La Rose Jacqueminot, Chypre and Les Muses. It’s so easy. All it takes is a little dab of the right fragrance in the right places.

Lesson One: How to Flirt: Fascinate them with La Rose Jacqueminot. Romantic. Captivating. The scent that started it all in Paris in 1905. Wear it and absolutely no man will be able to resist.

Lesson Two: How to Keep Them Guessing: Intrigue them with Chypre. Elegant. Evocative. The scent that has inspired so many imitations. Yet it has gone unrivaled. Its sensuous aura says you’re a woman of style and a bit mysterious too.

Lesson Three: How To Command Attention: Seduce them with Les Muses. Coty’s highly guarded secret. Dramatic. Sensuous. A multifaceted scent that leaves men longing for your attention. Now that you’re fluent in French, its up to you to decided exactly what to say.”

In 2004, to celebrate the firm’s 100th anniversary, Henri Coty, François’s son, commissioned the re-creation of his father’s La Rose Jacqueminot perfume, to be housed inside a French crystal flacon. These were sold in a limited number of just 200 only available to the French Market, and the perfume was reformulated by Daphné Bugey. Bottom of the bottle is marked in raised letters, "Bottle Made In France". This bottle measures 2" tall x 1 1/4" square. Other perfumes in this limited edition set included: Jasmin de Corse, L'Origan, and Emeraude. The perfume set was celebrated with the launch of a book Coty: The Brand of Visionary by Editions Assouline..

The trademark for the name La Rose Jacqueminot was taken out in 2006 by Coty, I hope they decide to relaunch the fragrance.