Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

 Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, arrived during a fascinating period characterized by dramatic shifts in art, culture, and society. The early 20th century, especially in the years leading up to World War I, was a time of innovation and change. The Art Nouveau movement was flourishing, influencing everything from architecture and jewelry to the design of everyday objects. This era saw a fascination with the exotic and the ancient, as Western society was increasingly enchanted by the mystique of past civilizations.

When François Coty marketed Ambre Antique, he tapped into the romanticism and fascination with ancient cultures, particularly that of Ancient Egypt. His claim that Ambre Antique was the perfume of "ancient Egypt and gilded queens" was not just a marketing strategy but a reflection of the era's broader cultural zeitgeist. This was a time when the discovery of Egyptian artifacts, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, captivated the world, although Coty's launch predates this discovery. Nonetheless, there was already a significant interest in Egyptology and the grandeur of ancient empires. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens." 

Ambergris, one of the key ingredients in Ambre Antique, has been treasured for centuries. This substance, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, was highly valued for its unique fragrance and rarity. In ancient times, and particularly in Ancient Egypt, ambergris was considered precious and was often used in perfumes and incense. Its scent was associated with luxury and divinity.

In Ancient Egypt, scents and perfumes held significant cultural and spiritual importance. Perfumes were not merely used for their pleasing aromas; they were integral to religious rituals, embalming processes, and personal grooming. Ambergris, with its musky and sweet smell, was highly prized. It was believed to have both physical and metaphysical properties, often used in ceremonies to honor the gods and in preparations for the afterlife.

Smitty by Coty c1976

The launch of Coty's Smitty perfume in 1976 coincided with a vibrant cultural moment marked by a sense of newfound freedom and liberation for women. This was the era of disco, where nightlife pulsated with energy, and social norms were loosening. Women were embracing their independence, asserting their identities, and challenging traditional roles.

The fragrance's marketing tapped into this spirit of liberation and freewheeling style. With its tagline "Smitty's the spirited, sexy new feeling in fragrance," it positioned itself as a symbol of empowerment and excitement. The choice of the name "Smitty" adds to its playful and enigmatic charm, suggesting a carefree and irreverent attitude.

The advertisement's tone, described as light-hearted, mischievous, and carefree, mirrored the ethos of the times. It celebrated spontaneity and self-expression, encouraging women to embrace their desires and revel in the moment. The phrase "When you're feeling so free, everybody can see, Smitty did it!" captures this sentiment, likening the experience of wearing the perfume to a liberating act that is both thrilling and visible to all.

In essence, Smitty perfume emerged as an emblem of the disco era, embodying the spirit of women's newfound freedom and the exuberance of the times. It became a popular choice among the younger crowd, serving as a fragrant expression of their desire for excitement and self-discovery.

Coty Perfumes 1954 Advertisement

Coty Perfumes 1954 Advertisement showing the following perfumes: Emeraude, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Paris, Muguet des Bois, Chypre, Styx, and Muse.

Various items shown are Air-Spun face powder, Sub Deb lipstick, talc, dusting powder, special presentations, toilet water, purse bottles, compacts, cologne, Twiststick solid cologne stick and more.

Coty Perfume Ad c1949

Coty Perfume Ad c1949 showing the following perfumes: L'Aimant, Emeraude, L'origan, Paris, Muguet des Bois, Chypre, A'Suma, L'Origan, Muse and Le Vertige.

Curious finds: the Cinderella Slipper presentation, the Fragrance Bar, Toilet Water & Purser set, dusting powder, talc, toilet water, perfume, soap, etc.

A'Suma by Coty c1934

Transport yourself to France in the year 1934, a time when the world was still reeling from the aftermath of the First World War and on the brink of another global conflict. In this era, the Western world held a fascination with exotic locales in the Far East, such as Bali and Japan. These places were often seen through a romanticized lens, imbued with notions of mystery, sensuality, and adventure.

In the collective imagination of the Western populace, Bali was depicted as a paradisiacal island shrouded in the allure of the unknown. It was envisioned as a land of lush tropical landscapes, pristine beaches, and enchanting cultural traditions. Bali symbolized a retreat from the constraints of Western civilization, a place where one could indulge in exotic pleasures and escape the mundane realities of everyday life.

Japan, on the other hand, evoked images of ancient traditions, refined aesthetics, and enigmatic beauty. It was viewed as a land of contrasts, where modernity coexisted with timeless customs. The allure of Japan lay in its mystique, its rich history, and its ability to captivate the imagination with its blend of tradition and innovation.

 

Against this backdrop of fascination with the Far East, A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise" made its debut in France. Conjured up by the creative minds of François Coty and Vincent Roubert, this sensuous perfume transported its wearers to a moonlit tropical beach in Bali, evoking the intoxicating ambiance of this exotic locale. With its blend of aromatic notes and evocative imagery, A'Suma captured the essence of the Far East and allowed its users to experience a fleeting moment of escapism and indulgence.

1945 Advertisement for Coty Perfume and Powder

 Vintage 1945 Sears (Spring and Summer) catalog page advertising Coty perfumes and cosmetics.

L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Complice de Francois Coty c1973

In 1934, Francois Coty conceived Complice ('Accomplice'), a fragrance ahead of its time. However, fate intervened as Coty passed away before his creation could grace the market. For nearly four decades, Complice lay dormant, waiting for its moment to shine. In 1973, the Coty company finally unveiled this long-awaited gem, encased in a bottle echoing the design aesthetics of its inception era. The journey of Complice is one of perseverance and legacy, with its name officially trademarked in 1939, a testament to the company's assertion of its use since 1938.

In a masterful stroke of homage and revitalization, the Coty perfume company embarked on a journey to resurrect the illustrious legacy of its founder in the realm of perfumery. With the relaunch of Complice, Coty sought to reintroduce a touch of the glamour and sophistication for which the brand had long been celebrated.

The revival of Complice was more than just a reintroduction of a fragrance; it was a strategic move to elevate the Coty brand back to its esteemed position among high-end perfumes. By imbuing the presentation with elegance and refinement, Coty aimed to dispel any notion of its products being confined to the shelves of drugstores and discount shops. The meticulously designed bottles, reminiscent of the exquisite creations of the legendary Rene Lalique, served as a visual testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that defined Coty's perfumes.

In embracing the aesthetic sensibilities of Lalique, Coty reaffirmed the notion that perfume was not merely a commodity but a form of art. The intricate designs of the bottles mirrored the intricacies of the fragrances they contained, each element meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication.

With Complice, Coty invited the world to rediscover the allure of perfume as a symbol of elegance and indulgence. The relaunch was a statement of Coty's enduring commitment to excellence and innovation in the realm of fragrance, ensuring that its founder's legacy would continue to shine brightly in the annals of perfumery history.

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Le Vertige by Coty c1906

"Le Vertige" by Coty, debuted in 1906, encapsulates the vibrant spirit of its time, mirroring the dynamic performances of dance troupes and ballets. Picture a stage alive with the graceful ballet dancers and the spirited can-can performers, all swirling together in a dizzying whirl of excitement that echoes the fragrance's essence. Just as dancers enchant their audience with choreographed elegance, "Le Vertige" captivates with its lively blend of scents, inviting wearers to immerse themselves in the exhilarating rhythm of the dance.

Crafted by Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief perfumer, "Le Vertige," pronounced "LEH-VAIR-TEEJH," embodies the lively, dizzying tempo of dance. Its name, meaning "dizziness" in French, vividly portrays the energetic atmosphere reminiscent of the era's dance troupes and ballets.

Masumi Toujours by Coty c2001

Masumi Toujours, a fragrance introduced by Coty in 2001, is a contemporary interpretation and extension of the classic Masumi fragrance, which debuted in 1967. As a flanker scent, Masumi Toujours builds upon the timeless essence of its predecessor while infusing it with modern elements, creating a scent that pays homage to the original yet stands out with its own unique character. It captures the essence of enduring elegance while embracing the spirit of the present, making it a captivating choice for those seeking a blend of tradition and innovation in their fragrance experience.

Masumi Je T'aime by Coty c2003

"Masumi Je T'aime by Coty," introduced in 2003, is a captivating fragrance that builds upon the legacy of Coty's iconic perfume, Masumi, which debuted in 1967. Serving as a flanker scent, Masumi Je T'aime embodies a modern interpretation of its predecessor, infusing it with contemporary notes and nuances while retaining the essence that made the original Masumi timeless. It's a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, designed to evoke feelings of love and allure with each delightful spritz.

Eau Masumi by Coty c1993

Introducing Eau Masumi by Coty, a fragrant testament to the refined tastes of 1990s women. Released in 1993 as a companion to Coty's iconic 1967 fragrance, Masumi, this exquisite scent represents a departure from the bold and heady aromas of previous decades. Eau Masumi offers a delicate and nuanced olfactory experience, catering to the preference for lighter scents among modern women.  

Emeraude by Coty c1918

Emeraude by Coty, launched in 1918 and crafted by the visionary perfumer François Coty, is a fragrance steeped in historical significance and cultural reverence. Pronounced "EM-AIR-ODE," the name itself, meaning "emerald" in French, hints at the rich narrative that inspired its creation.

In the early 20th century, François Coty was captivated by the ancient Persian culture, particularly their veneration of the emerald. The Persians, renowned for their sophisticated civilization and deep appreciation for the arts and sciences, held emeralds in high esteem. These precious stones were not merely ornamental but were believed to possess profound mystical powers. They were often housed in temples, symbolizing divine protection and happiness.

Against the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by turmoil and longing for beauty and stability, Coty sought to infuse his creations with a sense of wonder and escapism. His fascination with Persian legends and the emerald's reputed ability to bring divine happiness provided the perfect muse.

The post-war era, characterized by a yearning for peace and a return to elegance, found a perfect expression in Emeraude. Coty's goal was ambitious: to encapsulate the allure and mystique of the emerald, transforming its essence into a sensory experience. Emeraude was more than a fragrance; it was an olfactory representation of the emerald's soul, designed to evoke the same reverence and enchantment that the Persians felt towards their treasured jewels.

 

Launched during a time when modern perfumery was beginning to blossom, Emeraude stood out with its complex blend, balancing citrus top notes with a warm, spicy heart and a sensual, woody base. This composition was groundbreaking, setting a new standard for luxury fragrances. It invited wearers to embark on a journey through time and space, connecting them to the ancient Persian mystique while offering a modern sense of luxury and sophistication.

In essence, Emeraude by Coty is not just a perfume; it is a narrative encapsulated in a bottle, bridging the historical reverence of Persian culture with the early 20th century's desire for beauty and serenity amidst chaos. François Coty's creation remains a testament to the timeless allure of the emerald and the enduring power of storytelling in perfumery.

Coty 1935 Perfume Presentations Ad

Coffret No. 22 - Crystal flacon of Chypre, Le Lilas Blanc or Le Nouveau Gardenia.

Coffret No. 23 - This flacon was used for l'Aimant, L'Origan. Le Muguet and Paris.

Flacon for A'Suma, available in two sizes.

No. 8601 - flacon and "platinum finished" compact housed inside a "shagreen" box.

No. 21 - Presentation holding Bath Salts, Bath Dusting Powder, Toilet Soap and Eau de Cologne.