The launch of Muguet des Bois by Coty in 1913 occurred during a period of significant cultural and social shifts, particularly in the realm of women's rights and expression. François Coty, the visionary behind the fragrance, introduced it into a world where femininity was often associated with delicate, floral scents. The timing of the launch coincided with the burgeoning popularity of perfumes as an essential accessory for the modern woman, symbolizing elegance, refinement, and sensuality.
Lily of the valley, the focal note of Muguet des Bois, holds deep symbolism, especially in the context of femininity. Often associated with purity, innocence, and renewal, this delicate flower represented the idealized feminine virtues of the time. Its subtle yet enchanting fragrance became synonymous with grace and allure, making it a fitting choice for a perfume designed to accentuate the wearer's femininity.
Muguet des Bois by Coty embodied the essence of the era's feminine ideal, offering women a way to express themselves through scent. With its fresh, floral bouquet, the perfume captured the essence of springtime, evoking images of blooming gardens and romantic rendezvous. Its launch marked a pivotal moment in perfume history, cementing Coty's reputation as a master perfumer and setting the stage for the enduring legacy of Muguet des Bois as a timeless classic.
Pronounced "MEWGAY - DAY - BWAH"
The original was available in parfum (extrait/extract), talcum powder, bath powder, brilliantine, sachet, bath salts, face powder, eau de toilette and cologne.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh green flowery top, followed by a lily of the valley heart, layered over a floral base.
The original was available in parfum (extrait/extract), talcum powder, bath powder, brilliantine, sachet, bath salts, face powder, eau de toilette and cologne.
c1949 ad
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh green flowery top, followed by a lily of the valley heart, layered over a floral base.
- Top notes: lemon, aldehydes, orange, violet leaf absolute, and bergamot
- Middle notes: tarragon, cyclamen, lilac, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose
- Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood and Indian musk
The natural Muguet des Bois, a type found in woodland areas, features a sharp and refreshing lemony top note with a slightly green undertone. However, despite its captivating fragrance, it's not possible to extract essential oil directly from the lily of the valley blossoms. Instead, perfumers rely on a blend of natural and synthetic ingredients to recreate its scent accurately.
Hydroxycitronellal was often favored for its close resemblance to the natural fragrance and was notably employed in Dior's iconic perfume, Diorissimo, which prominently features lily of the valley. To further enhance the lily of the woods aroma, additional components such as Rhodinol, citronellal, terpineol, linalool, and indole were likely incorporated into the fragrance formulation. These ingredients work in harmony to capture the essence of the delicate lily of the valley blooms, crafting a scent that evokes the enchanting beauty of woodland landscapes.
Scent Profile:
As you embark on your journey through the woods in search of the elusive lilies of the valley, the crispness of the air greets you with a burst of freshness, reminiscent of lemon and orange zest dancing among the trees. The sharpness of aldehydes adds a touch of vibrancy, while the verdant aroma of violet leaf absolute and bergamot creates an invigorating atmosphere, as if the very essence of the forest is awakening around you.
As you venture deeper into the woodland, your senses are delighted by the interplay of fragrances. Tarragon lends its herbal sweetness, intertwining with the delicate whispers of cyclamen and lilac blossoms scattered along the forest floor. The air is imbued with the intoxicating scent of jasmine and rose, their floral elegance weaving a tapestry of enchantment around you.
But it is the heart of the woods where you find what you seek - the lily of the valley, its ethereal fragrance beckoning you closer. As you inhale deeply, you are enveloped in its soft, powdery sweetness, like a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered amidst the greenery. The lily-of-the-valley note is the heart and soul of the fragrance, its delicate allure casting a spell of timeless beauty.
As you linger in the embrace of the woods, the fragrance begins to settle into its base, grounding you in the earthy richness of oakmoss and vetiver. Mysore sandalwood adds a touch of warmth, while Indian musk lends a subtle sensuality, like a whispered secret shared among the trees.
In this olfactory journey through the woods, each note unfolds like a chapter in a story, guiding you towards the heart of nature's beauty - the lilies of the woods.
Bottles:
The presentation of the perfume extrait was a testament to Coty's commitment to both quality and elegance. The bottle, crafted by Coty's own glassworks, exemplified the brand's dedication to meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. With its refined design and exquisite construction, the bottle served as a fitting vessel for the precious fragrance it contained.
Additionally, the perfume was also presented in a flacon created by Cristalleries de Baccarat, renowned for their exquisite glassware. Design #307, with its timeless elegance and sophistication, complemented the allure of the fragrance within. The collaboration between Coty and Cristalleries de Baccarat elevated the presentation of the perfume, adding an extra layer of luxury and prestige.
Whether housed in Coty's own glassworks bottle or the Baccarat flacon, the perfume extrait was not only a sensorial delight but also a visual masterpiece, embodying the essence of beauty and refinement.
Original perfume bottle from c1913-1930s. Photo by ebay seller vintage_treasure_shop
c1940s-1950s bottle design. Photo by etsy seller CrazyCollectorOnline
c1940s-1950s bottle and gift box design. Photo by etsy seller VintageImageBox
c1940s-1950s bottle and gift box design. Photo by etsy seller VintageImageBox
c1960s-1970s bottle, photo by me.
c1960s-1970s rubber coated glass bottle. Photo by etsy seller BlackRockAccessories
c1960s-1980s bottle. Photo by etsy seller BeBeAntiques
c1980s bottle, photo by me.
Fate of the Fragrance:
References to Muguet des Bois by Coty in the 1919 Druggist's Circular price list, as well as subsequent mentions in 1925 and 1934, indicate its sustained popularity and enduring presence in the perfume market during that period. Despite the passage of time, its allure and appeal evidently remained strong, underscoring its status as a beloved fragrance among consumers.
The reformulation of Muguet des Bois by Henri Robert in 1936 marked a significant moment in its evolution. Henri Robert, known for his expertise and artistry in perfumery, likely brought a fresh perspective to the fragrance, potentially enhancing its composition while staying true to its essence. It may have incorporated Hydroxycitronellal. This reformulation might have aimed to adapt the scent to changing tastes or to incorporate new ingredients or techniques, ensuring its continued relevance in the dynamic world of perfumery.
I believe that it was reformulated one more time before 1940, it may have used the following aromachemicals: Lyral, Lilial, Sandela and purer grades of dimethyl octanol. These materials were introduced in 1937 and may have been incorporated into the reformulation.
The subsequent huge campaign and relaunch of Muguet des Bois in 1941 further solidified its place in the hearts and minds of consumers. Coty's extensive marketing efforts likely contributed to revitalizing interest in the fragrance, attracting new audiences while rekindling the nostalgia of loyal fans.
Overall, the journey of Muguet des Bois by Coty from its initial launch in 1913 to its reformulation by Henri Robert and subsequent relaunch in 1941 reflects not only the evolution of the perfume itself but also the ever-changing landscape of the perfume industry and consumer preferences throughout the early 20th century.
Relaunch in 1942:
A fabulous "picnic" was given by Coty on New York's 5th Avenue in 1942 to relaunch Muguet des Bois. Guests were sprayed from tip to toe with the spring like perfume of lilies of the valley. The "garden" was hung with greenery and fresh lilies. Lucky guests received wicker hampers, filled with lunch and adorned with lily sprays and blue ribbons and each was given a corsage of fresh picked lilies to wear at the shoulder. The arrangement was the brainchild chairman of Coty's board, Grover Whalen, who busied his time at the "picnic" greeting guests.
The relaunch of Muguet des Bois by Coty in 1942 amidst the backdrop of World War II reflects a blend of resilience, creativity, and a desire for escapism during challenging times. The "picnic" event held on New York's prestigious 5th Avenue served as a whimsical celebration of springtime and feminine elegance, providing a temporary respite from the realities of wartime austerity.
Against the backdrop of uncertainty and hardship, Coty's decision to relaunch Muguet des Bois with such grandeur speaks to the power of luxury and indulgence as forms of solace and hope. By immersing guests in the enchanting fragrance of lilies of the valley, Coty tapped into the nostalgic allure of nature's beauty, transporting attendees to idyllic springtime settings far removed from the chaos of war.
The meticulous attention to detail at the event, from the lush garden setting adorned with greenery and fresh lilies to the distribution of wicker hampers filled with delicacies and adorned with lily sprays and blue ribbons, exemplified Coty's commitment to creating a sensory experience that captivated and delighted guests.
The involvement of Grover Whalen, chairman of Coty's board, added a personal touch to the event, reinforcing the brand's dedication to forging connections with its clientele. His presence, along with the distribution of corsages of fresh-picked lilies, added an element of intimacy and warmth, fostering a sense of camaraderie and shared appreciation for beauty and elegance.
In 1945, Coty's lovely lily of the valley perfume was featured at the May Day party given at the Coty salon on Fifth Ave., New York, the first of May.
Similarly, the featuring of Coty's lily of the valley perfume at the May Day party in 1945 continued the tradition of celebrating the fragrance's timeless appeal and symbolic significance. Against the backdrop of springtime festivities, Coty's salon on Fifth Avenue served as a sanctuary of sophistication and refinement, offering patrons a sanctuary from the tumultuous outside world.
Overall, Coty's lavish events and marketing initiatives surrounding Muguet des Bois during the 1940s reflect a blend of innovation, escapism, and the enduring allure of fragrance as a means of transcending the challenges of the time period.
The New Yorker, 1947:
"Coty's Muguet des Bois not only has a fine spring-ish fragrance, it has the added advantage of neither leering nor panting. In fact so many people like it that, for all of us, you might buy it, wear it, and grab off a man right quick."
Cue, 1950:
"Coty's unforgettable "Muguet des Bois," the traditional valley lily perfume for May, is another perfect fragrance for the occasion. Purse flacon $1. Other sizes $1.25 to $5."
Life, 1953:
"MUGUET DES BOIS Coty captures joy of French custom in pleasing springtime fragrance. The bleak grayness of winter is gone and Paris comes alive in the bright Spring sunshine. It's the first of May . . . "Muguet Day" in all of France."
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