Accomplice by Coty c1954

The perfume "?", also known as Question Mark, was launched by Coty in 1954 and later renamed Accomplice. This launch came during a period of significant cultural and historical context, reflecting both the legacy and ambitions of Francois Coty, the founder of the Coty brand.

The year 1954 falls within the post-World War II era, a time marked by significant social, economic, and technological changes. Europe was recovering from the war's devastation, and there was a renewed sense of optimism and innovation. In France, this period saw a resurgence in fashion, art, and culture, often referred to as the "Les Trente Glorieuses" (The Glorious Thirty), which was a time of economic growth and modernization. The launch of this perfume is tied to an earlier historical event in 1930 when Francois Coty financed a successful transatlantic flight in a plane named Le Point d'Interrogation (the Question Mark). This event was a significant achievement in aviation, especially since it was a westward flight from Paris to New York, considered more challenging due to prevailing winds. The success of this flight was a source of national pride for France and highlighted the spirit of innovation and adventure during the early 20th century.

Coty had designed, conceived and anonymously paid for a sterling silver replica of the plane executed by Cartier, internationally known jewelers in Paris, to be presented to President Hoover when the pilots visited America as a gift of the government of the Republic of France to Rockefeller Center. It was officially presented to Rockefeller Center by his Excellency, Andre Lefevre de Laboulaye, French Ambassador to the United States. The conclusion of a message to American president Herbert Hoover from French President Gaston Doumergue read, “…in forming one more tie between France and the United States, will contribute greatly to the development of their friendship of centuries.” The replica then was on display in the lobby of La Maison Francaise.

By the time of the perfume's launch in 1954, Francois Coty had established himself as a significant figure in both the financial and political spheres. Known as the richest man in Europe with a fortune of $50,000,000, Coty's influence extended beyond the perfume industry. He owned several newspapers, including Le Figaro, and used his wealth and power to support various ventures, including aviation. Coty's decision to finance the transatlantic flight anonymously was a strategic move to protect his public image in case of failure. However, the success of the flight allowed him to celebrate and publicize his contributions, enhancing his reputation. His commissioning of a sterling silver replica of the plane to be presented to President Hoover symbolizes his efforts to strengthen Franco-American relations and his personal legacy.

The unusual name of the perfume, inspired by the plane Le Point d'Interrogation, reflects Coty's penchant for unique and memorable branding. This ties into the broader trend of the 1950s where brands sought to create distinctive identities in a rapidly growing consumer market. The story behind the perfume underscores the innovative spirit of the era. The aviation achievements financed by Coty paralleled the technological advancements and exploratory mindset that characterized the mid-20th century, influencing various sectors, including fashion and perfumery.

There is a plaque with an inscription which reads:

REPRODUCTION IN STERLING SILVER OF THE

“QUESTION MARK”

WHICH MADE THE FIRST NON-STOP FLIGHT FROM PARIS TO NEW YORK

IN SEPTEMBER 1930, PILOTED BY THE FRENCH AVIATORS

COSTES AND BELLONTE

THIS GOOD-WILL FLIGHT WAS THE RETURN VISIT OF

LINDBERGH’S HISTORIC FLIGHT TO PARIS IN 1927

THIS REPRODUCTION, WHICH IS SCIENTIFICALLY CORRECT IN

EVERY DETAIL, IS THE GIFT OF THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT TO

ROCKEFELLER CENTER FOR LA MAISON FRANCAISE

PRESENTED ON NOVEMBER 8, 1933

BY THE FRENCH AMBASSADOR TO THE UNITED STATES.

HIS EXCELLENCY MONSIEUR ANDRÉ LEFEVRE DE LABOULAYE

EXECUTED BY CARTIER

 A unique promotional contest was launched in accordance with the perfume. The advertisement reads:

"Anyone could win this fabulous Paris Vacation for Two! Just name this new Coty fragrance! here is another exhilarating fragrance from Coty. A fragrance so unique and stimulating , it can't help but stir your emotions - set you thinking of all the fascinating words that might describe it. The very first time you wear it, this thrilling new fragrance wil conjure up a dozen names. And when people comment on it, as their bound to, even more suggestions will occur to you. Get this new fragrance in the "Passport to Paris" package, along with your choice of seven beloved Coty Toilet Waters. (An outstanding fragrance value in itself of $2.50). Choose your favorite fragrances: Emeraude, A'Suma, Paris, L'Aimant, LOrigan, Styx and Muse. 

Then just give Coty a name that describes the character of the "question-mark" fragrance, and you may be the winner of an all expense vacation for two in the world's most romantic city - Paris! Anyone can win. There's no special talent required, no lengthy writing. Be sure to get your "Passport to Paris" while the limited supply lasts. 

Over $12,500 in prizes! Over 500 Chances to Win!

• Grand Prize: Vacation in Paris for Two (or $2,500 in Cash)

• Second Prize: Vacation in Paris for One (or $1,250 in Cash)

• 2 Third Prizes: Round Trip to Paris for One (or $500 in Cash)

• 4 Fourth Prizes: $250 (Paid in cash to each winner)

• 100 Extra Prizes: $25 (Paid in cash to each winner)

• 395 Extra Prizes: $13.50 of New Perfume and Toilet Water (each)

Complete Contest Rules and Entry Blank in each package. Your contest entry must be postmarked no later than Sept 27, 1954."

The Question Mark fragrance, later rebranded as Accomplice, was launched under this new name in 1954. Despite the change in name, the bottles for both fragrances feature identical labels. This indicates that the fragrance was marketed with consistent packaging even after the name change.

At the press party to launch Accomplice in 1956, a psychologist elaborated on the reasons behind why women collect their perfumes. He stated, "Whenever a woman changes her perfume, you can be sure that she is creating a new direction for herself with a definite motivation toward either a new man, a new career, or something she wants that she hasn't yet got..." This insight highlights the psychological and emotional factors influencing women's choices in fragrance, suggesting that a change in perfume often signifies a broader desire for change or new aspirations in their lives.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, clove, Bulgarian rose, bergamot
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, orris, labdanum, opoponax, camphor
• Base notes: tonka bean, patchouli, Siamese benzoin, ambergris, Indian musk, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, leather

Scent Profile:

The fragrance unfolds with a lively burst of aldehydes, offering a crisp and effervescent introduction that immediately tantalizes the senses. Following this initial sparkle, the warm and spicy aroma of clove emerges, adding depth and intrigue to the opening. Alongside the clove, the luxurious scent of Bulgarian rose unfolds, exuding a rich and velvety floral sweetness. Rounding out the top notes, bergamot lends a bright and citrusy freshness, adding a zesty contrast to the deeper aromas.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, a captivating bouquet of floral notes takes center stage. Carnation brings a spicy and aromatic quality, infusing the composition with warmth and complexity. Jasmine follows, enveloping the senses with its lush and intoxicating floral aroma, adding a touch of opulence to the blend. Orris root contributes a powdery and slightly woody note, imparting a subtle vintage elegance to the heart of the fragrance. Labdanum offers a resinous and warm aroma, providing depth and richness to the floral bouquet. Opoponax adds a balsamic sweetness, enhancing the complexity of the middle notes with its rich and slightly smoky scent. Lastly, camphor introduces a cool and medicinal edge, adding a surprising twist to the heart of the fragrance.

In the base, a sense of warmth and sensuality emerges, grounding the composition with a rich and luxurious foundation. Tonka bean brings a creamy and comforting sweetness, inviting the wearer into its embrace. Patchouli offers an earthy and slightly spicy undertone, adding depth and richness to the base notes. Siamese benzoin contributes a sweet and resinous scent, infusing the fragrance with a warm and balsamic quality. Ambergris adds a unique and oceanic aroma, enhancing the base with its musky and slightly animalic character. Indian musk provides a soft and sensual allure, enveloping the wearer in a warm and enticing embrace. Mysore sandalwood offers a creamy and woody scent, adding a touch of luxury and sophistication to the base notes. Oakmoss provides an earthy and slightly damp aroma, adding depth and complexity to the fragrance. Finally, leather brings a rich and smoky nuance, adding a bold and masculine edge to the base notes.

Together, these carefully crafted layers create a fragrance that is both complex and captivating, evoking a sense of mystery and allure with each luxurious note.

Other companies also introduced their own versions of the "?" perfume. These included Fragonard, Vibert Freres, Delettrez, and Alexa. Each of these companies created their own interpretation of the enigmatic fragrance, contributing to the diverse offerings in the perfume market.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Accomplice Perfume:

Accomplice was sold up until around 1960-1961. Although specific details about the manufacturer are not provided, it is clear that this perfume had a distinct presence during its time. The name Accomplice suggests a classic and potentially popular fragrance that may have had a significant following before being discontinued in the early 1960s.

Complice Perfume:

Complice was introduced in 1973 by Francois Coty. Despite the name resemblance, Complice by Francois Coty is a different fragrance from Accomplice. This distinction is important for collectors and enthusiasts who might otherwise confuse the two due to their similar sounding names. Francois Coty's version represents a new creation in the perfume world, emerging over a decade after Accomplice had ceased production.