Coty Perfume Gift Sets Pour L'Occasion 1938 Advertisement

Coty Perfume Gift Sets "Pour L'Occasion" 1938 Advertisement.

Ici by Coty c1995

Gourmand fragrances, which are scents inspired by food and dessert-like notes, experienced a significant surge in popularity around the time of the launch of "Ici" by Coty in 1995. This trend was part of a broader movement in perfumery towards more unconventional and experiential scents, as consumers sought fragrances that were not just pleasant to wear but also evoked a sense of nostalgia or indulgence.

One of the landmark gourmand fragrances that set the stage for this trend was "Angel" by Thierry Mugler, which debuted in 1992. Angel was revolutionary for its use of edible notes like chocolate, caramel, and vanilla, which were blended with traditional floral and oriental elements to create a unique olfactory experience. Its success paved the way for other perfumers to explore similar territory, leading to the creation of fragrances like "Ici" by Coty.

"Ici" capitalized on the gourmand trend by featuring notes such as vanilla, creme brulee, caramel, and cocoa, which further reinforced the idea of scent as a sensory experience reminiscent of indulgent desserts. By combining these edible elements with other aromatic components, "Ici" aimed to evoke a sense of luxury and comfort, appealing to consumers who sought fragrances that went beyond traditional floral or citrusy scents.

Overall, the rise of gourmand fragrances in the mid-1990s reflected a shift in consumer preferences towards more innovative and multisensory olfactory experiences. These scents tapped into the emotional connection between scent and memory, offering wearers a way to indulge in the pleasures of food and dessert through the medium of fragrance.

Sophia by Coty c1980

Sophia is a Coty fragrance inspired by the famous Sophia Loren. Created by James Bell.

Nokomis by Coty c1997

It's fascinating how the inspiration for Coty's perfume, Nokomis, could potentially be traced back to the 1995 Disney movie, "Pocahontas." Released just a couple of years before the launch of Nokomis, "Pocahontas" was a significant cultural event, particularly for its portrayal of Native American culture and themes of nature, connection, and spirituality.

Now, while Nokomis itself was named after the Ojibwe word for "grandmother," which holds deep significance within Native American culture, the connection to "Pocahontas" might lie in the broader cultural awareness and appreciation for Native American traditions and stories that the movie helped to foster.

In "Pocahontas," the character of Grandmother Willow serves as a wise and spiritual guide to the titular character. While Nokomis in Ojibwe tradition is not directly tied to Pocahontas or Grandmother Willow, the association with the term "grandmother" could evoke similar feelings of wisdom, guidance, and connection to nature that are present in both the movie and the fragrance.

Furthermore, the mention of Nokomis as a character in Longfellow's "The Song of Hiawatha" adds another layer to this potential inspiration. Longfellow's poem, though not directly related to "Pocahontas," is part of the broader cultural tapestry that includes Native American themes and characters, much like the Disney film.

So, while there may not be a direct link between Nokomis perfume and "Pocahontas," the cultural milieu of the mid-1990s, with its heightened interest in Native American stories and themes, likely played a role in shaping Coty's choice of name and perhaps the overall aesthetic and messaging of the fragrance.

The Song of Hiawatha by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow:

By The Shores of Gitche Gumee
By The Shining Big Sea Water
Stood The Wigwam of Nokomis
Daughter of the Moon Nokomis

Au Coeur des Calices by Coty c1912

In 1912, when "Au Coeur des Calices" by Coty was launched, the Western world was in the midst of significant social and cultural shifts. This was the Edwardian era, characterized by elegance, sophistication, and a sense of opulence. Delicate feminine fragrances were indeed en vogue, mirroring the refined tastes of the time.

The French name "Au Coeur des Calices" translates to "At the Heart of the Calyxes" in English.  Calyxes are the protective coverings of a flower's bud, often associated with the innermost essence of a blossom. In the context of fragrance, the name suggests a focus on capturing the essence or the most potent part of the flower, perhaps hinting at a rich, intense scent profile. This could imply that the perfume contained concentrated floral notes, highlighting the lush and intricate aromas found within the heart of the flowers. 

During the time period when delicate feminine fragrances were in vogue, such a name would have resonated with women who sought perfumes that not only embodied femininity but also offered a sense of depth and complexity. It aligns with the preference for elegant, sophisticated scents that reflected the refined tastes of the Edwardian era.

The launch of this perfume in 1912 coincided with the era of the Titanic, an iconic event that epitomized the extravagance and grandeur of the time. Just as the Titanic represented the pinnacle of luxury and sophistication, "Au Coeur des Calices" likely aimed to capture the essence of that era's refined femininity, offering women a scent that evoked a sense of timeless beauty and elegance.

La Jacinthe by Coty c1914

La Jacinthe by Coty was launched in 1914.

L'Ambreine c1906

L'Ambreine by Coty, launched in 1906, carries with it a name that evokes both mystery and luxury. The word "Ambreine" is derived from the French word ambre, meaning ambergris, and the suffix -ine, commonly used to denote a substance or compound. In this case, the term “L’Ambreine” would be pronounced as “lahm-brin,” with the emphasis on the second syllable. Amber, historically prized for its warm, rich color and deep, resinous scent, conjures images of golden-hued jewels, ancient treasures, and the earthy warmth of the natural world. The name itself evokes a sense of opulence and sensuality, a fragrance inspired by the mysteries of the East, with its exotic allure and complex, animalic undertones.

The early 20th century, when L'Ambreine was introduced, was a time of tremendous change and innovation. The period, straddling the tail end of the Belle Époque and the dawn of the modern era, was marked by both technological advances and a yearning for escapism. Women of the time were entering new realms of independence and freedom, and fashions reflected this evolution. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements were in full bloom, with intricate, flowing designs and bold geometric shapes inspiring everything from architecture to fashion. The trend toward more exotic and oriental-inspired fragrances paralleled these aesthetic shifts, reflecting a fascination with the faraway and the unknown. The demand for perfumes with rich, complex compositions, often incorporating animalic or "oriental" notes, was at its height, and women sought fragrances that matched their evolving roles as both liberated individuals and sophisticated consumers of luxury goods.

Coty Perfumes and Their Color Coordinations

Over the years, Coty often used special colors when packaging their perfumes. These colors variations often changed according to the different packaging used. Most bakelite are solid colors while the lucite caps often had marbling veins. Please note that the caps can fade color if exposed to sunlight, one example is that the pale pink can often turn almost white. Here is a list of known color coordinations that I have found, you will usually find the caps for perfume bottles are colored in the following:

• Red: generally used for L'Aimant, but also used for A'Suma , L'Origan

• Dark Pink to Fuschia: generally used for L'Aimant in later years

• Light Pink to Lavender: generally used for La Rose Jacqueminot, but also used for L'Origan, Meteor,  Muguet des Bois, A'Suma

• Orange to Peach: generally used for L'Origan, used for A'Suma

• Dark Green: generally used for Emeraude, but also used for Chypre, La Rose Jacqueminot, L'Aimant, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Muguet, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Jade Green: generally used for Chypre, Le Vertige, Emeraude, A'Suma, Meteor, Oeillet France, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Blue: generally used for Paris, but also used by L'Aimant, L'Origan, Chypre, Le Vertige, Muguet des Bois, Iris, Le Nouveau Gardenia, and L'Ambre Antique

• White: generally used for L'Origan but also used for Styx, Chypre, Meteor, Muguet, Muse, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Black: generally used for Styx, but also by Le Vertige, Lavande, L'Origan, and Muse

Chypre by Coty c1908

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 marked a significant moment in the history of perfumery. This period, the early 20th century, was characterized by a shift in fragrance trends and the emergence of new olfactory styles. The word "chypre" itself comes from the French word for Cyprus, and this genre of perfumes is known for its woody, mossy, and citrusy accords.

The early 1900s were a time of cultural and artistic change, with the Belle Époque giving way to the more modern and progressive sensibilities of the early 20th century. Perfumery was undergoing a similar transformation, moving away from the heavy, floral scents of the Victorian era towards lighter, more abstract compositions.

François Coty, the founder of the Coty perfume house, was a pivotal figure in this evolution. He was instrumental in popularizing the concept of designer perfumes and making them accessible to a wider audience. Coty's Chypre fragrance was groundbreaking for its innovative blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, which departed from the traditional single-flower scents that were prevalent at the time.

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 would have occurred against the backdrop of a rapidly changing society, where new ideas and artistic movements were flourishing. It represented a departure from the past and a bold step into the future of perfumery, setting the stage for the diverse range of fragrances that would follow in the decades to come.

L'Or by Coty c1912

In 1912, the world was on the cusp of significant change, a period marked by both opulence and uncertainty. It was a time when gold held immense symbolic and material value, representing wealth, luxury, and aspiration. Against this backdrop, Coty's introduction of L'Or perfume in the same year seems fitting, as it sought to encapsulate the allure and prestige associated with this precious metal.

Vincent Roubert's meticulous craftsmanship, taking five years to perfect the formula, reflects the attention to detail and refinement characteristic of the Edwardian era. This period, marked by lavishness and elegance, was a fitting milieu for the creation of such a luxurious fragrance. The Edwardians, known for their penchant for extravagance and indulgence, would have been drawn to the allure of L'Or, with its promise of sophistication and refinement.

The naming of the perfume as "L'Or," meaning gold in French, further underscores its association with wealth and luxury. Gold was not merely a metal but a symbol of status and desire, embodying the aspirations of the era's elite. By naming the perfume after this precious metal, Coty aimed to evoke a sense of opulence and exclusivity, appealing to the desires of the Edwardian elite who sought to surround themselves with luxury.

The launch of L'Or coincided with a period of great exploration and adventure, epitomized by events such as the maiden voyage of the Titanic in 1912. The Titanic, with its opulent interiors and wealthy passengers, symbolized the height of Edwardian extravagance and ambition. L'Or, with its exotic allure and promise of unquenchable dreams, would have resonated with the spirit of adventure embodied by such grand undertakings.

In essence, the launch of L'Or in 1912 marked a convergence of luxury, aspiration, and adventure, capturing the spirit of the Edwardian era and its fascination with opulence and exploration. Its name, its formulation, and its marketing all spoke to the desires and dreams of a society on the brink of transformation, making it a fitting symbol of its time.

Jasmin de Corse by Coty 1906

The launch of Jasmin de Corse by Coty in 1906 marks a significant moment in the history of perfumery, reflecting the tastes and trends of the early 20th century. This period saw a flourishing interest in fragrances, with perfumes becoming essential accessories for both men and women, symbolizing luxury, refinement, and sophistication.

Corsica, the birthplace of François Coty, holds a special significance in the creation of Jasmin de Corse. Corsica, an island in the Mediterranean Sea known for its stunning natural beauty and rich floral diversity, particularly jasmine, serves as the inspiration for this fragrance. Jasmine, with its intoxicating floral aroma, has long been revered in perfumery for its sensuous and exotic qualities. Corsican jasmine, in particular, is renowned for its exceptional fragrance, often described as heady, floral, and slightly sweet, making it a prized ingredient in perfumery.

In Jasmin de Corse, Coty masterfully captures the essence of Corsican jasmine, blending it with other complementary notes to create a scent that exudes elegance and allure. The fragrance likely evokes the lush landscapes and fragrant blooms of Corsica, transporting wearers to a romantic and exotic paradise with each spritz.

The endorsements of notable figures like Tatiana Romanov, a Russian princess, and Colette, a renowned French writer, further cemented Jasmin de Corse's status as a beloved fragrance of the era. Tatiana Romanov's endorsement would have added a touch of royal allure to the perfume, while Colette's daily wear of Jasmin de Corse speaks to its timeless appeal and versatility. Their admiration for the fragrance underscores its universal appeal and ability to captivate individuals from different backgrounds and cultures.

Overall, the launch of Jasmin de Corse in 1906 encapsulates the spirit of its time, embodying the opulence, romance, and allure of early 20th-century perfumery. Its association with Corsica and jasmine adds an exotic and luxurious dimension to the fragrance, making it a beloved classic that continues to enchant perfume enthusiasts to this day.

Very Rare Antique 1920s Coty Perfume & Cosmetics Catalog Price List w/Pictures

Here are the scanned pages from my 1928 Coty catalog featuring updated prices on perfumes and cosmetics available that year.

Chanel No. 5 and Coty

Chanel No. 5 and Coty

There is a rumor that has been going around since the 1920's. It seems that some people believe that Francois Coty was the inventor of Chanel No.5. People maintain that Chanel No. 5 was an act of industrial espionage and that its formula was stolen from a competitor's laboratory in the south of France. This theory is part of that long, tangled history that connected Coco Chanel and her friend - and -competitor - Francois Coty.

As Edmond Charles-Roux tells it: "The development of No.5 …proceeded in a rather heavy atmosphere reminiscent of the whispered machinations that herald a palace revolution…Plenty of intrigue, sudden reversals and secret alliances. Nothing was missing from the script not even the spectacular disappearance of one of Coty’s top chemists. The deserter fled, clutching to his bosom the fruit of long years of research: the formula for a perfume Coty could not make up his mind to put on the market because it cost so much to produce. That was one reason why this chemist went over to the enemy: he was afraid his invention would never be available to the public…Was his name Ernest Beaux? All queries being met by the impenetrable silence of those who know, we must be content to leave this point in darkness. But one thing is certain: about seven years later, Coty was producing a perfume that was almost exactly the same as Chanel No. 5. But although I sold tolerably well, L’Aimant never made a dent in the Chanel market.”

A closer look revealed a crazy mixed-up, story. On the other hand Yvonne Coty always claimed that Chanel No. 5 was named not after the number of the fragrance vial but after the number of “a station in Coty’s laboratory at either Suresnes or at the Rallet Factory in the south of France.” She seemed to believe that there was some possible buried connection. However, Ernest Beaux never worked for Coty. He has spent his entire career at Rallet, so he couldn’t have been the fleeing chemist. Perhaps it was another perfumer at Coty who absconded with the formula and passed it along to Ernest Beaux - who then handed it to Coco Chanel. One thing is for certain, in 1927, as Charles-Roux says, someone at Coty did have a copy of the Chanel No. 5 formula or something extremely similar to it. Coty’s fragrance L’Aimant, launched that year, was too close to have been any kind of accident. The question remains, did Coty have the formula all along and was Chanel No. 5 the copy?

There is a perfectly simple reason why Coty had a copy of the formula for a Chanel No. 5 perfume in 1927. A year before, Coty’s massive company had swallowed up one of his smaller competitors, the Chiris perfume house. Coty had been closely involved with the operations at Chiris for several decades. At the turn of the century, he has trained in their labs and became business partners with several of the owners of that family company. Since WWI, he has acted as those Chiris was his business alone, in many ways and its perfume “his” holdings. It was this sense of proprietorship that would fuel an intense and not always friendly spirit of competition between Coty and Coco Chanel.

In 1926, Coty had formally purchased the business and all of its holdings, which included the A. Rallet & Co perfume outfit. All the info that Coty needed to produce his own version of Chanel No.5 was sitting right there in the archives. But the name on top of that formula was not Chanel. No. 5. What he had acquired was the recipe for another perfume, one that was invented in 1914. It smelled unmistakably like Chanel No. 5, for one simple reason: it was the secret scent behind the world’s most famous perfume. This time, the crazy story was true. 

Most of this info was taken from the book "Secret of Chanel No. 5".

Here is more info on my Chanel blog site: https://chanelperfumebottles.blogspot.com/2013/05/chanel-no-5-by-chanel-c1921.html

Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

 Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, arrived during a fascinating period characterized by dramatic shifts in art, culture, and society. The early 20th century, especially in the years leading up to World War I, was a time of innovation and change. The Art Nouveau movement was flourishing, influencing everything from architecture and jewelry to the design of everyday objects. This era saw a fascination with the exotic and the ancient, as Western society was increasingly enchanted by the mystique of past civilizations.

When François Coty marketed Ambre Antique, he tapped into the romanticism and fascination with ancient cultures, particularly that of Ancient Egypt. His claim that Ambre Antique was the perfume of "ancient Egypt and gilded queens" was not just a marketing strategy but a reflection of the era's broader cultural zeitgeist. This was a time when the discovery of Egyptian artifacts, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, captivated the world, although Coty's launch predates this discovery. Nonetheless, there was already a significant interest in Egyptology and the grandeur of ancient empires. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens." 

Ambergris, one of the key ingredients in Ambre Antique, has been treasured for centuries. This substance, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, was highly valued for its unique fragrance and rarity. In ancient times, and particularly in Ancient Egypt, ambergris was considered precious and was often used in perfumes and incense. Its scent was associated with luxury and divinity.

In Ancient Egypt, scents and perfumes held significant cultural and spiritual importance. Perfumes were not merely used for their pleasing aromas; they were integral to religious rituals, embalming processes, and personal grooming. Ambergris, with its musky and sweet smell, was highly prized. It was believed to have both physical and metaphysical properties, often used in ceremonies to honor the gods and in preparations for the afterlife.

Smitty by Coty c1976

The launch of Coty's Smitty perfume in 1976 coincided with a vibrant cultural moment marked by a sense of newfound freedom and liberation for women. This was the era of disco, where nightlife pulsated with energy, and social norms were loosening. Women were embracing their independence, asserting their identities, and challenging traditional roles.

The fragrance's marketing tapped into this spirit of liberation and freewheeling style. With its tagline "Smitty's the spirited, sexy new feeling in fragrance," it positioned itself as a symbol of empowerment and excitement. The choice of the name "Smitty" adds to its playful and enigmatic charm, suggesting a carefree and irreverent attitude.

The advertisement's tone, described as light-hearted, mischievous, and carefree, mirrored the ethos of the times. It celebrated spontaneity and self-expression, encouraging women to embrace their desires and revel in the moment. The phrase "When you're feeling so free, everybody can see, Smitty did it!" captures this sentiment, likening the experience of wearing the perfume to a liberating act that is both thrilling and visible to all.

In essence, Smitty perfume emerged as an emblem of the disco era, embodying the spirit of women's newfound freedom and the exuberance of the times. It became a popular choice among the younger crowd, serving as a fragrant expression of their desire for excitement and self-discovery.