Ici by Coty c1995

Gourmand fragrances, which are scents inspired by food and dessert-like notes, experienced a significant surge in popularity around the time of the launch of "Ici" by Coty in 1995. This trend was part of a broader movement in perfumery towards more unconventional and experiential scents, as consumers sought fragrances that were not just pleasant to wear but also evoked a sense of nostalgia or indulgence.

One of the landmark gourmand fragrances that set the stage for this trend was "Angel" by Thierry Mugler, which debuted in 1992. Angel was revolutionary for its use of edible notes like chocolate, caramel, and vanilla, which were blended with traditional floral and oriental elements to create a unique olfactory experience. Its success paved the way for other perfumers to explore similar territory, leading to the creation of fragrances like "Ici" by Coty.

"Ici" capitalized on the gourmand trend by featuring notes such as vanilla, creme brulee, caramel, and cocoa, which further reinforced the idea of scent as a sensory experience reminiscent of indulgent desserts. By combining these edible elements with other aromatic components, "Ici" aimed to evoke a sense of luxury and comfort, appealing to consumers who sought fragrances that went beyond traditional floral or citrusy scents.

Overall, the rise of gourmand fragrances in the mid-1990s reflected a shift in consumer preferences towards more innovative and multisensory olfactory experiences. These scents tapped into the emotional connection between scent and memory, offering wearers a way to indulge in the pleasures of food and dessert through the medium of fragrance.

Sophia by Coty c1980

Sophia is a Coty fragrance inspired by the famous Sophia Loren. Created by James Bell.

Nokomis by Coty c1997

It's fascinating how the inspiration for Coty's perfume, Nokomis, could potentially be traced back to the 1995 Disney movie, "Pocahontas." Released just a couple of years before the launch of Nokomis, "Pocahontas" was a significant cultural event, particularly for its portrayal of Native American culture and themes of nature, connection, and spirituality.

Now, while Nokomis itself was named after the Ojibwe word for "grandmother," which holds deep significance within Native American culture, the connection to "Pocahontas" might lie in the broader cultural awareness and appreciation for Native American traditions and stories that the movie helped to foster.

In "Pocahontas," the character of Grandmother Willow serves as a wise and spiritual guide to the titular character. While Nokomis in Ojibwe tradition is not directly tied to Pocahontas or Grandmother Willow, the association with the term "grandmother" could evoke similar feelings of wisdom, guidance, and connection to nature that are present in both the movie and the fragrance.

Furthermore, the mention of Nokomis as a character in Longfellow's "The Song of Hiawatha" adds another layer to this potential inspiration. Longfellow's poem, though not directly related to "Pocahontas," is part of the broader cultural tapestry that includes Native American themes and characters, much like the Disney film.

So, while there may not be a direct link between Nokomis perfume and "Pocahontas," the cultural milieu of the mid-1990s, with its heightened interest in Native American stories and themes, likely played a role in shaping Coty's choice of name and perhaps the overall aesthetic and messaging of the fragrance.

The Song of Hiawatha by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow:

By The Shores of Gitche Gumee
By The Shining Big Sea Water
Stood The Wigwam of Nokomis
Daughter of the Moon Nokomis

Au Coeur des Calices by Coty c1912

In 1912, when "Au Coeur des Calices" by Coty was launched, the Western world was in the midst of significant social and cultural shifts. This was the Edwardian era, characterized by elegance, sophistication, and a sense of opulence. Delicate feminine fragrances were indeed en vogue, mirroring the refined tastes of the time.

The French name "Au Coeur des Calices" translates to "At the Heart of the Calyxes" in English.  Calyxes are the protective coverings of a flower's bud, often associated with the innermost essence of a blossom. In the context of fragrance, the name suggests a focus on capturing the essence or the most potent part of the flower, perhaps hinting at a rich, intense scent profile. This could imply that the perfume contained concentrated floral notes, highlighting the lush and intricate aromas found within the heart of the flowers. 

During the time period when delicate feminine fragrances were in vogue, such a name would have resonated with women who sought perfumes that not only embodied femininity but also offered a sense of depth and complexity. It aligns with the preference for elegant, sophisticated scents that reflected the refined tastes of the Edwardian era.

The launch of this perfume in 1912 coincided with the era of the Titanic, an iconic event that epitomized the extravagance and grandeur of the time. Just as the Titanic represented the pinnacle of luxury and sophistication, "Au Coeur des Calices" likely aimed to capture the essence of that era's refined femininity, offering women a scent that evoked a sense of timeless beauty and elegance.

La Jacinthe by Coty c1914

La Jacinthe by Coty was launched in 1914.

L'Ambreine c1906

L'Ambreine by Coty, launched in 1906, carries with it a name that evokes both mystery and luxury. The word "Ambreine" is derived from the French word ambre, meaning ambergris, and the suffix -ine, commonly used to denote a substance or compound. In this case, the term “L’Ambreine” would be pronounced as “lahm-brin,” with the emphasis on the second syllable. Amber, historically prized for its warm, rich color and deep, resinous scent, conjures images of golden-hued jewels, ancient treasures, and the earthy warmth of the natural world. The name itself evokes a sense of opulence and sensuality, a fragrance inspired by the mysteries of the East, with its exotic allure and complex, animalic undertones.

The early 20th century, when L'Ambreine was introduced, was a time of tremendous change and innovation. The period, straddling the tail end of the Belle Époque and the dawn of the modern era, was marked by both technological advances and a yearning for escapism. Women of the time were entering new realms of independence and freedom, and fashions reflected this evolution. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements were in full bloom, with intricate, flowing designs and bold geometric shapes inspiring everything from architecture to fashion. The trend toward more exotic and oriental-inspired fragrances paralleled these aesthetic shifts, reflecting a fascination with the faraway and the unknown. The demand for perfumes with rich, complex compositions, often incorporating animalic or "oriental" notes, was at its height, and women sought fragrances that matched their evolving roles as both liberated individuals and sophisticated consumers of luxury goods.

Coty Perfumes and Their Color Coordinations

Over the years, Coty often used special colors when packaging their perfumes. These colors variations often changed according to the different packaging used. Most bakelite are solid colors while the lucite caps often had marbling veins. Please note that the caps can fade color if exposed to sunlight, one example is that the pale pink can often turn almost white. Here is a list of known color coordinations that I have found, you will usually find the caps for perfume bottles are colored in the following:

• Red: generally used for L'Aimant, but also used for A'Suma , L'Origan

• Dark Pink to Fuschia: generally used for L'Aimant in later years

• Light Pink to Lavender: generally used for La Rose Jacqueminot, but also used for L'Origan, Meteor,  Muguet des Bois, A'Suma

• Orange to Peach: generally used for L'Origan, used for A'Suma

• Dark Green: generally used for Emeraude, but also used for Chypre, La Rose Jacqueminot, L'Aimant, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Muguet, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Jade Green: generally used for Chypre, Le Vertige, Emeraude, A'Suma, Meteor, Oeillet France, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Blue: generally used for Paris, but also used by L'Aimant, L'Origan, Chypre, Le Vertige, Muguet des Bois, Iris, Le Nouveau Gardenia, and L'Ambre Antique

• White: generally used for L'Origan but also used for Styx, Chypre, Meteor, Muguet, Muse, A'Suma, Le Vertige, Le Nouveau Gardenia

• Black: generally used for Styx, but also by Le Vertige, Lavande, L'Origan, and Muse