Chypre by Coty c1908

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 marked a significant moment in the history of perfumery. This period, the early 20th century, was characterized by a shift in fragrance trends and the emergence of new olfactory styles. The word "chypre" itself comes from the French word for Cyprus, and this genre of perfumes is known for its woody, mossy, and citrusy accords.

The early 1900s were a time of cultural and artistic change, with the Belle Époque giving way to the more modern and progressive sensibilities of the early 20th century. Perfumery was undergoing a similar transformation, moving away from the heavy, floral scents of the Victorian era towards lighter, more abstract compositions.

François Coty, the founder of the Coty perfume house, was a pivotal figure in this evolution. He was instrumental in popularizing the concept of designer perfumes and making them accessible to a wider audience. Coty's Chypre fragrance was groundbreaking for its innovative blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, which departed from the traditional single-flower scents that were prevalent at the time.

The launch of Chypre by Coty in 1908 would have occurred against the backdrop of a rapidly changing society, where new ideas and artistic movements were flourishing. It represented a departure from the past and a bold step into the future of perfumery, setting the stage for the diverse range of fragrances that would follow in the decades to come.

L'Or by Coty c1912

In 1912, François Coty introduced L’Or, a fragrance whose very name evokes luxury, opulence, and timeless beauty. In French, L’Or (pronounced “lor”) translates to "gold," a metal that has symbolized wealth, power, and divinity across civilizations. Choosing gold as the inspiration for a perfume suggests an aspiration to create something precious, radiant, and enduring—a scent that would embody the same timeless allure as the coveted metal itself. Gold is luminous yet untouchable, rich yet weightless, making it a fitting muse for a fragrance meant to feel both lavish and ethereal.

The name L’Or would have immediately captivated the women of 1912, conjuring images of gilded salons, intricately beaded gowns, and the shimmering glow of candlelight on satin gloves. It was an era of grandeur and transformation, as the Belle Époque reached its twilight. This was a time of extraordinary artistic and cultural achievements—Paris was the epicenter of fashion, art, and innovation, where the haute bourgeoisie indulged in the finest luxuries. Women were beginning to assert their independence, embracing a newfound sense of modernity while still reveling in the romantic excesses of the past.

Fashion in 1912 was evolving rapidly. The corseted hourglass silhouette of the previous decades was loosening, giving way to more fluid and elongated lines inspired by Paul Poiret and the Orientalist craze. Rich fabrics, intricate embroidery, and exotic embellishments were highly sought after, mirroring the sumptuous, spicy florals of perfumes like L’Or and its near twin, L’Origan (1905). The fascination with the East, opulence, and sensuality played directly into the appeal of Coty’s fragrance, which blended floral and tobacco notes in a composition that felt both seductive and refined.

 

Jasmin de Corse by Coty 1906

Launched in 1906, Jasmin de Corse by Coty is a fragrance that carries deep personal significance for its creator, François Coty, born François Spoturno on the Mediterranean island of Corsica. The name "Jasmin de Corse" translates from French as "Jasmine of Corsica" (pronounced zhaz-mehn duh kors). The phrase evokes sun-drenched landscapes, rolling hills scented with wildflowers, and the island’s rich botanical heritage. By naming the fragrance after his homeland, Coty not only paid tribute to his Corsican roots but also drew upon the island’s legendary natural beauty and aromatic flora to create a scent that was both nostalgic and exotic.

The early 1900s, when Jasmin de Corse was introduced, marked the height of the Belle Époque (1871–1914), a period of artistic, cultural, and scientific flourishing in Europe. Fashion was transitioning from the elaborate S-curve corseted silhouettes of the late 19th century to the more fluid, empire-line gowns that would dominate the years leading up to World War I. Women of the time sought luxury and romance in their fragrances, using perfume as a means of expressing femininity, status, and sensuality. A scent called Jasmin de Corse would have evoked images of sun-warmed Mediterranean gardens, opulence, and the allure of an island untamed yet steeped in history.

The olfactory composition of Jasmin de Corse is classified as a sweet floral, known for being intensely rich, heady, and lingering. The fragrance was built around indolic jasmine, a type of jasmine that possesses a deep, almost animalic intensity, giving it a sensual and slightly smoky character. In an era when perfumes were often light, powdery, or aldehydic, Jasmin de Corse stood out for its unapologetic richness and depth. While heavy florals such as rose, tuberose, and violet were popular at the time, Coty's take on jasmine was particularly bold, setting it apart from more delicate floral compositions.