Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

Ambre Antique by Coty, launched in 1905, was a fragrance steeped in historical allure and exotic fantasy. The name itself, Ambre Antique, directly translates from French as "Ancient Amber" (pronounced as "ahn-bruh ahn-teek"), evoking the image of a bygone era where rare and opulent materials were treasured. The name alone conjures visions of golden relics, perfumed chambers, and the sensuous mysteries of antiquity. Coty, a visionary perfumer and astute businessman, understood the romanticism surrounding ancient civilizations, particularly Ancient Egypt, and wove this fascination into the identity of his creation.

At the heart of Ambre Antique was ambergris, one of perfumery’s most legendary and enigmatic materials. A rare substance formed in the digestive system of sperm whales and aged by the sea, ambergris was prized for its complex, warm, and slightly animalic aroma. In the ancient world, it was revered for its unique scent and mystical qualities, believed to be a gift from the gods. The Egyptians, known for their mastery of fragrance and elaborate burial rituals, used resins, myrrh, and incense in both daily life and sacred ceremonies. Coty’s reference to the perfume of Ancient Egypt and gilded queens was not merely a marketing ploy; it resonated with the cultural imagination of the early 20th century, when discoveries like the excavation of Egyptian tombs and the growing field of Egyptology captivated the public.

The early 1900s, often referred to as the Belle Époque, was a period of artistic flourishing, technological innovation, and societal transformation. The fashion of the time reflected a shift towards greater freedom of movement—corsets were loosening, and the elegant S-curve silhouette, championed by designers like Paul Poiret, was replacing rigid Victorian styles. Women, inspired by exotic and oriental aesthetics, embraced luxurious fabrics, draped gowns, and intricate embroidery that echoed the styles of ancient civilizations. It was a time of opulence, but also of change, as women were beginning to assert greater independence in both fashion and society.

Smitty by Coty c1976

The launch of Coty's Smitty perfume in 1976 coincided with a vibrant cultural moment marked by a sense of newfound freedom and liberation for women. This was the era of disco, where nightlife pulsated with energy, and social norms were loosening. Women were embracing their independence, asserting their identities, and challenging traditional roles.

The fragrance's marketing tapped into this spirit of liberation and freewheeling style. With its tagline "Smitty's the spirited, sexy new feeling in fragrance," it positioned itself as a symbol of empowerment and excitement. The choice of the name "Smitty" adds to its playful and enigmatic charm, suggesting a carefree and irreverent attitude.

The advertisement's tone, described as light-hearted, mischievous, and carefree, mirrored the ethos of the times. It celebrated spontaneity and self-expression, encouraging women to embrace their desires and revel in the moment. The phrase "When you're feeling so free, everybody can see, Smitty did it!" captures this sentiment, likening the experience of wearing the perfume to a liberating act that is both thrilling and visible to all.

In essence, Smitty perfume emerged as an emblem of the disco era, embodying the spirit of women's newfound freedom and the exuberance of the times. It became a popular choice among the younger crowd, serving as a fragrant expression of their desire for excitement and self-discovery.